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Has anyone tried Coollaboratory Liquid Metal Pad on their GPU?

The cpu stuff is conductive, wonder what the difference is with the pad, i'd be wary about putting it near a gpu myself, assuming its the same compound.
 
The link is from 2013.
While the pad is OK, don't forget it needs cure and heat to melt and settle.
 
Oh lol that Coollaboratory Liquid Metal, you really need to be very careful with it if you want to try it.

I remembered read posts and pics from a poor guy here on OCUK bought Coollaboratory Liquid Metal paste and applied it on his brand new RX 480 die because temp was too high but however he had issues after ran few games tests. He removed card cooler, unscrewed RX 480 heatsink and tried to removed it but would not then he forced removed it with pressure ripped off RX 480 die stuck hardened on the base of heatsink. Cause: User error due to RX 480 heatsink are made of aluminium.

Coollaboratory Liquid Metal should never apply on aluminium base!!! It will only work on copper base.
 
AthlonXP1800 said:
Oh lol that Coollaboratory Liquid Metal, you really need to be very careful with it if you want to try it.

I remembered read posts and pics from a poor guy here on OCUK bought Coollaboratory Liquid Metal paste and applied it on his brand new RX 480 die because temp was too high but however he had issues after ran few games tests. He removed card cooler, unscrewed RX 480 heatsink and tried to removed it but would not then he forced removed it with pressure ripped off RX 480 die stuck hardened on the base of heatsink. Cause: User error due to RX 480 heatsink are made of aluminium.

Coollaboratory Liquid Metal should never apply on aluminium base!!! It will only work on copper base.
Click to expand...

:eek: link?
 
CL Liquid Metal is Gallium based I believe, so you don't want it anywhere near anything aluminium and you need to be extremely careful when applying it. Not sure if the pads are made of the same stuff.
 
Hence is better to buy the best paste out there, and forget the CLU.

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is possibly the best with 12.5W/mk.
To put in comparison, EK Ectotherm, Arctic Silver 5, Gelid Extreme have 8.5W/mk.

Replaced on the GTX1080 the paste of the block, initially used the EK Ectotherm and had max temps around 48C while benching.
By using Kryonaut max temp hasn't gone above 35C. Idle temps drop 5C also.
 
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I'll have to keep that aluminium issue in mind, I know you need nickel or copper HS/plating, though. Do we have this on modern aftermarket GPU coolers?

I'm wondering if my current MSI 7950 TFIII is Nickle plated thinking about it, can anyone confirm, as I could give it a try on this one at some point.

I really need to know what this does to a GPU before I try it on anything new. With it being a pad, application should be easy but I'm not sure what state it enters during the 80c burn in etc. I also like to periodically strip my GPU to it's component parts for a good clean, I'd have to stick with pressurised air cleaning if this does weld it to the gpu mind.
 
TheMorningStar said:
I'll have to keep that aluminium issue in mind, I know you need nickel or copper HS/plating, though. Do we have this on modern aftermarket GPU coolers?

I'm wondering if my current MSI 7950 TFIII is Nickle plated thinking about it, can anyone confirm, as I could give it a try on this one at some point.

I really need to know what this does to a GPU before I try it on anything new. With it being a pad, application should be easy but I'm not sure what state it enters during the 80c burn in etc. I also like to periodically strip my GPU to it's component parts for a good clean, I'd have to stick with pressurised air cleaning if this does weld it to the gpu mind.
Click to expand...

It's a mixed bag. Some still use aluminium on fins and what not, so it's definitely worth checking. The burn in only needs to reach 58c, they recommend 60c to be sure. Not sure on it's state, but you would certainly have to reapply a fresh pad if you pulled it apart.
 
benjii said:
It's a mixed bag. Some still use aluminium on fins and what not, so it's definitely worth checking. The burn in only needs to reach 58c, they recommend 60c to be sure. Not sure on it's state, but you would certainly have to reapply a fresh pad if you pulled it apart.
Click to expand...

Only the base is important really, I do believe they are fairly expensive, so I'd probably not strip it totally. If it is heat reactive, re-using it could be a possibility. Don't think I'd bother, though. I believe the article linked states 80c for a proper burn in, I'll need to look for some in-depth reviews.
 
TheMorningStar said:
Only the base is important really, I do believe they are fairly expensive, so I'd probably not strip it totally. If it is heat reactive, re-using it could be a possibility. Don't think I'd bother, though. I believe the article linked states 80c for a proper burn in, I'll need to look for some in-depth reviews.
Click to expand...

Surely it must set though after the initial burn otherwise it would never be that effective? I'd be interested to know more on that actually. I didn't see the 80c in the article, but the Coollaboratory instructions for it say melting occurs at 58c and 60c is optimum.
 
Panos said:
Hence is better to buy the best paste out there, and forget the CLU.

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is possibly the best with 12.5W/mk.
To put in comparison, EK Ectotherm, Arctic Silver 5, Gelid Extreme have 8.5W/mk.

Replaced on the GTX1080 the paste of the block, initially used the EK Ectotherm and had max temps around 48C while benching.
By using Kryonaut max temp hasn't gone above 35C. Idle temps drop 5C also.
Click to expand...

is this for real?

do you work for them or have shares in the company :D
 
benjii said:
Surely it must set though after the initial burn otherwise it would never be that effective? I'd be interested to know more on that actually. I didn't see the 80c in the article, but the Coollaboratory instructions for it say melting occurs at 58c and 60c is optimum.
Click to expand...

They actually stated it wasn't suitable for AMD CPUs due to the high temps needed . Well, I'm sure I read that, could have missed I guess. 58/60 should be well within the operating temps, maybe the product has been revised at some point?
 
Sem said:
is this for real?

do you work for them or have shares in the company :D
Click to expand...

I own some Kryonaut and I think it's rather overrated.

I saw no difference between it and my Noctua NT H1 on my NH D15S; and on my previous H110i GT it was only 2 degrees better than the stock corsair paste.

Honestly just use any decent paste for a decent price, as long as you're entire cooling setup is decent it won't matter too much.

http://www.eteknix.com/thermal-grizzly-thermal-paste-vs-6-major-brands-review/3/

It could be different for GPUs, but I doubt it's a 12 degree difference between other pastes :p
 
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