Biker's Cafe Chatroom

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I had to do a complete overhaul on my brakes as I found out that I had a leaky piston...

Anyway, replaced the seals/fluid, and got new braided brake lines along with new sintered pads. Done about 500 miles on the new pads now.

My concerns though is, even though the bike is easy to move, and the brakes are far more responsive, there is a very light rubbing noise if you like when moving the bike. I don't remember this on my previous OEM pads, thoughts?

Probably over thinking it. :p
 
russell664 said:
I had to do a complete overhaul on my brakes as I found out that I had a leaky piston...

Anyway, replaced the seals/fluid, and got new braided brake lines along with new sintered pads. Done about 500 miles on the new pads now.

My concerns though is, even though the bike is easy to move, and the brakes are far more responsive, there is a very light rubbing noise if you like when moving the bike. I don't remember this on my previous OEM pads, thoughts?

Probably over thinking it. :p
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That's normal, the pads should just be in contact with the disc. When you're up to speed the pads with retract very slightly from the disc.
 
Ah, so like an air lift?

I'm thinking about putting the r6 throttle tube on my curvy, and painting the belly pan to the colour of the bike. Just need to move house first - the plus side I actually have my own garage for modding things :p
 
I believe what happens is the discs spinning just knocks back the pads a fraction of a mm, enough so that they're close when you brake there's not much lever travel, but not rubbing on the disc causing the pads to overheat.

Best way to tell, if you can the front wheel off the ground, and spin it - if it's rubbing too much the wheel will only do a revolution or so, or even less. Too much of a gap/lots of lever travel before the brakes bite and the wheel will spin freely for a a while. You want in between this.

See 3:40 and 7:00
 
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russell664 said:
I had to do a complete overhaul on my brakes as I found out that I had a leaky piston...

Anyway, replaced the seals/fluid, and got new braided brake lines along with new sintered pads. Done about 500 miles on the new pads now.

My concerns though is, even though the bike is easy to move, and the brakes are far more responsive, there is a very light rubbing noise if you like when moving the bike. I don't remember this on my previous OEM pads, thoughts?

Probably over thinking it. :p
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Rubbing like that is 100% normal and I'd want a bit of it tbh, otherwise it wouldn't seem right. You might have replaced organics with sintered, so you notice it more? If that's the case, you'll also notice a bit of scoring initially, but it should be quite light scoring, and should feel smooth still.

TallPaul_S said:
I believe what happens is the discs spinning just knocks back the pads a fraction of a mm, enough so that they're close when you brake there's not much lever travel, but not rubbing on the disc causing the pads to overheat.

Best way to tell, if you can the front wheel off the ground, and spin it - if it's rubbing too much the wheel will only do a revolution or so, or even less. Too much of a gap/lots of lever travel before the brakes bite and the wheel will spin freely for a a while. You want in between this.
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Some don't even move that much and are fine.

It's when your pad disappears and your disk goes blue that you need to worry :p

Good test: ride for a while without using brakes, stop without the brake you're testing and check the temp. If it's boiling, then it's sticking. If it's slightly warm or cold, then it's fine.
 
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Thanks for the advice lads.

Cone to think of it, when I first put them in I went for a ride top Mablethorpe and back. I tried not to use the front brakes too much for the first 15 miles, pulled over, then where barely warm - which I guess is a good thing.
That was then they where first put in tough, I will see if I can give it a test tomorrow on the way to work to confirm again.

I noticed a lot of dusty deposits when bedding in, a little bit less now though, but If I don't clean the rotors there is fine dust on them.
Before I switched pads, I gently rubbed the rotors with very fine sandpaper to remove any existing material to be on the safe side at least.

I'm glad it sounds normal, had to re-build the calipers twice due to seal leaks. No leaks now from what I can see, the lever is pretty much rock hard too, I tested the pressure overnight by wrapping a band around the lever and bar tightly and the lever was in exactly the same place as before.

I'll grab some pictures so you can take a look as well :)

Done over 6k miles on my SV now, I love it. I don't think i'll part with it unless it is destroyed or something - I know I want to test ride loads of bikes after the restriction lift, then decide which one I want. Already saving :p
 
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Clov!s said:
I know it was hence the haha ;) never heard of race fit :p
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What?! They're a British company that makes exhausts.

http://store.racefituk.com/

Same with mine, its normal... I'll bleed them when the postage comes. I wonder how the spark plugs look, I was lazy and didn't change them last time. :p

Edit

Here's a poor quality video made with my breaking nexus.
 
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TallPaul_S said:
I think the light came on just over 100 miles yesterday, I was taking it gentle though, barely more than 30% throttle I think :D
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Funny you should say that - the XR records all sorts of data - gear changes, front and rear brake usage and... average throttle. I think the last time I checked (after coming back from the Alps earlier this year) it sat at a paltry 18%. It is surprising how little throttle you use on a higher power bike on the roads - you're up to speed so quickly you're immediately feathering or off it completely.
 
£550 for titanium headers from a guy on the 900nuda forum, estimated delivery January 2017, they take 6 weeks to make and titanium isn't easy to get, that or a set of arrow headers for £265.

The only downside with the arrow headers is that they have the cat installed, so you need to break the weld and remove it, the titanium headers are straight through.
 
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Just had one of my most terrifying "near (but not really near) miss" moments.

Just coming home from work at 6am its dark coms to little round about near me theres a sort of shop/garage a ways back and thats it.

I look right past the shop sll clear, look left and get ready to go when my brain goes "look again"

So look right again and just entering the round about is a huge ****ing black scania lorry lit up light a christmas tree cant have been more than 30ft away when i first looked

Some how first time i looked it had just blended into the shop lighting and with black cab and dark trailer i didnt even notice it conciously, fortunately some part of me did though

Being tired and the dark plays tricks on you.

How crap wpuld that obituary have been though. "Trundled 5 mph under a lorry going 20mph"
 
Clov!s said:
£550 for titanium headers from a guy on the 900nuda forum, estimated delivery January 2017, they take 6 weeks to make and titanium isn't easy to get, that or a set of arrow headers for £265.

The only downside with the arrow headers is that they have the cat installed, so you need to break the weld and remove it, the titanium headers are straight through.
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No contest there. Titanium on the Nuda. That price isn't as bad as I thought either, especially as it's custom made.
 
Craig321 said:
No contest there. Titanium on the Nuda. That price isn't as bad as I thought either, especially as it's custom made.
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Actually I was wrong, the arrow headers come as 2 parts, the headers and a separate link pipe, effectively cancelling out the cat, sounds exactly the same as the titanium headers but isn't aesthetically pleasing! I can have the arrow headers by Friday or the titanium in 4 months..
 
Half the price and delivered before you decide to change bike again :p seems like a no brainer as much as I do like my pointless Ti parts.
 
Titanium, all the way ;)


What optimate/battery charger do you lot reccoment? There's already a fused connection to the battery under the pillion seat which ends in one of these connectors (the right one)
F4589361-01.jpg


so it'll get connected up to this plug, no point running another lead to the battery. I'll also be using this plug for the battery and ground leads for a relay to power a USB port and satnav power, the other 2 wires being switched live and power to the devices.
 
Clov!s said:
£550 for titanium headers from a guy on the 900nuda forum, estimated delivery January 2017, they take 6 weeks to make and titanium isn't easy to get, that or a set of arrow headers for £265.

The only downside with the arrow headers is that they have the cat installed, so you need to break the weld and remove it, the titanium headers are straight through.
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Clov!s, I thought you had a speed triple :confused: Or have you changed already? :p
 
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