What have you done to your car today?

Anyone know if an AC Compressor refurb exchange service exists? :)

Gonna need to replace the one on the Sloda soon as it has now started making rather alarming clicking and banging noises along with the screech when you first turn it on. It still works but I'm concerned it will seize up and snap the belt. :p

Its either that or a second hand one from eBay.
 
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I'm trying to figure out if its the compressor or the compressor clutch, or both. Can't find any videos with a noise quite like it! Will record it somewhen...

Want to do the aux belt and tensioner soon, so would ideally like to get it all sorted in one go... :)
 
Don't they all com as one part? When I changed the clios it was all one bit. Just bolted it on and replaced the Aux kit and away it went... after a regas
 
Nah on the Golf MK4 based cars at least, there is a seperate AC clutch on the end of the compressor which you can replace, it apparently fails when a bolt works loose and it shears all its splines off...

It is very loud, lasts about 5 - 10 seconds, starts off as a low pitched whine/groan and then sounds like its under strain, then the groan stops and it squeals in a higher pitch and then the noise stops. It happens when the AC is turned on for the first time. (or when I start the car if I left the AC turned on) When re-starting the car when its still warm, it doesn't do it.

After its finished wailing at me it starts clicking and clacking loudly. The AC starts blowing cold once the whining has stopped, and the clickety clacking has begun. :p

I suppose the loud clicking could be it slipping on its remaining splines before catching or something, or it could be the bearing in the pulley, but I'm not sure what the loud whine is...
 
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So, today was one of my proudest "what have you done to your car today" moments - I managed to change one of the air suspension shock absorbers on my Jag, something I never thought I'd be able to do.

I thought I'd take advantage of my dad being over here as another pair of hands really helps, and also made friends with some fireman who let me play with their massive tools :eek:

So, here's how I did it:

First of all, I should probably say this is very, very difficult. I admit I am an amateur with regards to mechanics, but I've changed wheel bearings, heater resistors, callipers etc in the past without much trouble, and I'd say this is 10x more difficult.

This is how it looked when I started:

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As you can see, the shock had totally failed, punching a hole through the dust cover.

The first thing to do is to loosen the wheel nuts, then jack the car up, disconnect the battery and take off the wheel. This allows the air suspension ECU to enter its "jacked up" state, which is then remains in when you disconnect the battery.

You can then follow the steps on this video, but I encountered several complications

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dB7FIf0rjy4

In the video, they loosen the nut on the air line easily, and it pops off as you'd expect. In my case, it also loosened easily, but it took the entire connector that sits in the inside of the shock with it, which made it very difficult to get apart. It's much better to undo the nut whilst using a pair of mole grips on the lower part of the air connector to stop the whole plug unscrewing.

Equally, on the video, they put the car in neutral and disable the handbrake. This is all well and good, but in the manual it states that under no circumstances should you disconnect the battery with the instrument cluster activated. To put the car in neutral, you have to turn on the ignition, thus activating the instrument cluster, and whilst the manual could have been scaremongering, I wasn't willing to take that risk, so I left the car in park with the handbrake on.

This is an issue as, on the right hand side of the car, if you need to remove the stabiliser arm, as you're instructed to do, you need to remove the parking brake calliper, which cannot be done when the parking brake is activated. This meant I had to find a way of removing the shock without removing the stabiliser arm.

Of course, in order to remove the shock, you need to remove the large lower bolt, and this was what posed the biggest problem. Shocks on these cars are generally lifetime components, and mine had certainly never been changed. The large bottom bolt was seized solid, and it was only with the help of the firemen that we managed to get it undone. And then, as soon as that was undone, it became obvious that the shock was not going to come out through the gap between the driveshaft and the stabiliser arm without some serious manoeuvring.

It is however, just about possible provided you use a jack to support the whole hub assembly, and then move it all up/down as required and constantly jiggle it from side to side. This alone took me easily 1-2 hours, and could have totally been avoided if I'd been able to remove the stabiliser arm, but sadly that wasn't an option.

Once it was finally through, it has to be pushed up through the car, so that the securing bolts and air line socket poke through into the boot area. This is also incredibly difficult: I genuinely thought at several points that they must have sent me the wrong shock, as the bolts and holes just refused to line up. I finally managed it by putting a jack at the bottom of the shock, then gently moving it up and using the jack to support it, so that I could concentrate purely on moving it from side to side.

Once it's in position, you connect everything up, and with the car still up in the air on the jack, reconnect the battery and start the engine. As the car is now in exactly the same state it was when the battery was disconnected, the air suspension system doesn't realise anything has changed, and therefore doesn't need to be recalibrated. The system will begin to fill up the air shocks, so leave it running for 5 minutes, then gently lower it down at which point it should resume a normal height. Some people found they needed to drive the car for a while to get it to settle, but mine was fine from the start.

So there you go - not easy by any means, and it took me about 5-6 hours, but I know the job has been done properly and I've probably saved myself about €1000, so I'm happy. :D
 
Jesus, nice work! Read the whole thing and it sounded like a right mare! :p

e; Right, the squeal is like this after he clicks it from setting 3 to setting 4 (but for about 10~ seconds not for this long, and only when the AC is activated)


In the Volvo its the heater blower, but it can't be that for me cos it doesn't do it when you use the normal fan, only when you turn AC on. :)

Then there are some really loud clicks. :p

Any clue? :D
 
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Nice work geek. If it...God forbid...happens on any other corner at least you've had the experience now and hopefully it'll go a bit quicker.
 
Looked better before... And that's without seeing after pics :D

Is your name Grudas? :p

Nice work geek. If it...God forbid...happens on any other corner at least you've had the experience now and hopefully it'll go a bit quicker.

Luckily, although in some cases they can fail, it is incredibly rare for them to fail catastrophically like mine did. With my fault, it was literally like driving the car with no damping at all - hitting a manhole cover at 20MPH felt like hitting a speed bump at 40MPH, so it was impossible to drive it for any distance or at any speed. If one of them fails in the more usual way (i.e. you get a bit of a knocking noise when driving along) I'll probably pay someone for the use of their garage/tools, take a day off work and do them all at once, safe in the knowledge that I've got everything required to do the job properly. As it was, it wasn't really drivable, so I had to do it in the town car park next to the toilets. :p
 
Wow, good job there Geekman, I'd certaintly not have had the balls to do that myself and see it through faced with the problems. Cool that it didn't need recalibrating, I didn't think it would :)
 
Good effort Geekman. That video did the classic thing of making it look easy, "oh, just undo that bolt then withdraw, 5 minutes". Then when you get to said bolt, you find its spent years welding itself to it's carrier :/

Makes what I did to the X-trail this weekend look like child's play....installed a new front fogight (again :/ ) and replaced the rear washer pump.

EDIT: Autocorrect :/
 
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Its good for gummy fuel left in a carburettor that's for sure, run a drop through the lawnmower and in my old beetle and camper van and it really does do something but in modern high pressure fuel injection systems I'd be surprised.
 
Surely same can be said for VPower/Ultimate fuel.

Not really... most of the cost of VPower/BP Ultimate is the fact it is higher octane. On vehicles with Knock sensors that can take advantage of the higher octane, then there is a tangible benefit.

The additive package in the fuels is a "bonus", and I don't think there is any way to conclusively prove anything one way or the other
 
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