Stupid plumbing/boiler/heating issue -.-

OCdude

OCdude

OCdude

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Norway
Hopefully it's just me being thick and NOT (another) issue with my boiler/cylinder D:

I'm trying to re-pressurise my system as it's dropped to about 0.5 bar and i'm HOPING that's the reason that the central heating is no longer working at all (hot water still works fine.. boiler is running fine with no errors either).

I've attached the filling loop, opened both valves and........ nothing!

Am i forgetting something?! I'm a bit paranoid to start fiddling with valves etc as I've got a bad track history with plumbing lol....

I'm assuming the 'stop valve cold water down service' valve is currently 'on' and should be left as-is?!

Any help appreciated :o

Thanks!

Filling loop attached (valves closed)
image.jpg


Pipes n... stuff!
image.jpg
 
Tom_ed1987 said:
Are there any other valves on that fill loop pipe if you follow it down?

Also, why is your plumbing silver :p
Click to expand...

The next valve down from the filling loop is the one marked 'stop valve cold water down service' Which i'm assuming is open? (the handle is parallel to the pipe) :confused:

As for the silver - it's cos i'm well posh init! But I think it's some kind of insulating paint or something... no idea!

Caged said:
There are some valves not in that picture surely?
Click to expand...

As above, the only other one is the 'stop valve cold water down service' one. This may sound retarded but if the valve handle is parallel to the pipe, does that usually mean it's open or closed?! :confused::D
 
Our filling loop has two valves at either end of the "loop" (so four total), one set where the flexible pipes attach to the fixed piping, and one set closer to the boiler.

If nothing is happening, then you've got no flow. You'll hear and feel it once you get flow through the filling loop, and it won't take much time at all to get the pressure up (a few seconds typically.)
 
Bonjour said:
I have to open two valves to pressurise my central heating loop.
Click to expand...

paradigm said:
Our filling loop has two valves at either end of the "loop" (so four total), one set where the flexible pipes attach to the fixed piping, and one set closer to the boiler.

If nothing is happening, then you've got no flow. You'll hear and feel it once you get flow through the filling loop, and it won't take much time at all to get the pressure up (a few seconds typically.)
Click to expand...

I guess I'll try that next valve down then.. I'm just a bit dubious as to what "stop valve cold water down service" actually means! I don't want to wreck anything else :D
 
Last edited:
dholdi said:
A zone valve will typically have a rectangular actuator with a cable running to it.

Something like this - http://www.honeywelluk.com/products/Valves/Motorised-Valves/V4043-Motorised-Valves/

I don't think pressure is your problem if the boiler is running ok unless you live in a multi storey house and the boiler is on the ground floor.
Click to expand...

Ah ok, yeah I have one of those, can't see anything untoward though :confused:

Thinking about it, the sudden lack of central heating may have coincided with a couple of brief powercuts last week.. could that have triggered anything?!

The thermostat is still setup fine and I've tried cranking it up to 30C to see if it kicks in (still nothing).
 
Look for a manual lever on the zone valve ?
Is lever present ?
How many zone valves can you find ?

Look on top of the vessel for a Schrader valve, a gauge is used to identify pressure in vessel.
 
Al-Ectrician said:
Look for a manual lever on the zone valve ?
Is lever present ?
How many zone valves can you find ?

Look on top of the vessel for a Schrader valve, a gauge is used to identify pressure in vessel.
Click to expand...

OK found the zone valves, both levers are on the right hand side.. assuming I don't need to touch those!

Can't easily get to the top of the expansion vessel, although I don't think there's anything on top other than a black rubber grommet thing
 
Locate zone valve for heating, the hot one is working so that's hot water.

Slide lever on heating zone valve and lock in open position, a notch, you will hear spring moving.

On top of expansion vessel is a rubber cap, underneath this removable cap is the valve, same as a bicycle tyre vale, quick press should release a little air, if water comes out you need to recharge the vessel using A bicycle tyre pump to 15 psi or 1 bar.

First step is lever on heating zone valve.

Al
 
If the zone valves are closed then you can move the lever against the spring return.
When you have it fully open you can lift it and allow the spring to take it back against the open latch.
The valve is now manually open and if you get heat circulating you know its an issue with the control of the valve.
 
Caged said:
Do the levers flap around when you slide them or do they slide back across if you push them half way?
Click to expand...

Al-Ectrician said:
Locate zone valve for heating, the hot one is working so that's hot water.

Slide lever on heating zone valve and lock in open position, a notch, you will hear spring moving.

On top of expansion vessel is a rubber cap, underneath this removable cap is the valve, same as a bicycle tyre vale, quick press should release a little air, if water comes out you need to recharge the vessel using A bicycle tyre pump to 15 psi or 1 bar.

First step is lever on heating zone valve.

Al
Click to expand...

dholdi said:
If the zone valves are closed then you can move the lever against the spring return.
When you have it fully open you can lift it and allow the spring to take it back against the open latch.
The valve is now manually open and if you get heat circulating you know its an issue with the control of the valve.
Click to expand...

They don't really spring as such, there's a notch in the middle, so they kinda just lock into place (by design, by the looks of it) :confused:

Found the valve on the expansion vessel.. although I don't have any way to guage the pressure or top it up :o Would it be the lack of pressure in the vessel itself, that's causing the lack of flow of water when i'm opening the two filling loop valves? Or is that totally unrelated?!

I've also checked the hot water pump... that seems to be okay.. it's vibrating and warm when I stick the central heating on (i'm assuming that if there was an air bubble in it, it would stop altogether?)
 
Update: Moved the heating zone valve to the middle (as far as it'll go) while the central heating was on (cranked the thermostat up to 30C to be sure) and nothing happens at all.

Is it normal for the pump to be hot to the point where you can't hold you hand on it for say.. 10 seconds?
 
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