It's winter - best car jump starter?

Cheers for that. I think the battery is 9 years old so probably come to the end of its time. Bosch S4010.

I'll be removing the stereo though to check as that is similar to mine. I'm sure the ignition and positive live are actually linked somehow because stereo comes on with ignition but with ignition off I can press it and it will come on.
 
I've been meaning to do it for ages because the stereo can be played with ignition off but it also comes on when ignition comes on so they were linked somehow. I found this:

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What is this EXT-MIC wire for? All of the dashboard controls are loose which is ok.

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I'm assuming brown plug is the speakers and black is the other wires, earths etc.
 
I left my Scorpio for three months last winter and it started first time after. If the battery is in good nick it'll be fine.
 
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Is this right?:

"Color Purpose Connector and Pin
Grey/Pink Speed dependent vol control Black Connector A: Pin 1
Unused Black Connector A: Pin 2
Yellow/Black Mute for telecom interface Black Connector A: Pin 3
Red/Black (thick) Constant power 12v (Fuse D8) Black Connector A: Pin 4
White Power antenna control Black Connector A: Pin 5
Grey/Blue Illumination (headlamps on) Black Connector A: Pin 6
Orange 12 volt switched power (Fuse E1) Black Connector A: Pin 7
Brown (thick) Chassis ground Black Connector A: Pin 8
Green Right rear speaker (positive) Brown Connector B: Pin 1
Green/Black Right rear speaker (negative) Brown Connector B: Pin 2
Red Right front speaker (positive) Brown Connector B: Pin 3
Red/Brown Right front speaker (negative) Brown Connector B: Pin 4
Yellow Left front speaker (positive) Brown Connector B: Pin 5
Yellow/Brown Left front speaker (negative) Brown Connector B: Pin 6
Violet Left rear speaker (positive) Brown Connector B: Pin 7
Violet/Black Left rear speaker (negative) Brown Connector B: Pin 8
Yellow/Red Left rear line output (positive) Yellow Connector C: Pin 1
Red/Blue Right rear line output (positive) Yellow Connector C: Pin 2
Brown/Blue Common audio ground Yellow Connector C: Pin 3
Green/Red Left front line output (positive) Yellow Connector C: Pin 4
Violet/Red Right front line output (positive Yellow Connector C: Pin 5
Black/Red 12 volt switched power Yellow Connector C: Pin 6
Blue CD changer - Bus On Green Connector C: Pin 7
Red CD changer - Battery Green Connector C: Pin 8
Black CD changer - Ground Green Connector C: Pin 9
Green CD changer - Data Green Connector C: Pin 10
Yellow CD changer - Clock Green Connector C: Pin 11
Violet CD changer- Reset Green Connector C: Pin 12
Blue/Green Telephone audio Blue Connector C: Pin 13
Blue/Yellow Telephone audio common Blue Connector C: Pin 14
Unused Blue Connector C: Pin 15
Unused Blue Connector C: Pin 16
Unused Blue Connector C: Pin 17
Brown CD changer - Common audio ground Blue Connector C: Pin 18
Yellow CD changer - Left Blue Connector C: Pin 19
Red CD changer - Right Blue Connector C: Pin 20


If your car does not have an external amplifier, then the speakers for the Carrera will plug directly into the brown connector B on the back of the radio. If your Carrera has an external amplifier, then there will be a smaller yellow connector that outputs the signals from the head unit to the amplifier.
"

They are standard ISO connections aren't they? So I just fix this wiring blip and then I'm ok to put that or another back in?
 
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Looking at this as the bottom of the picture is actually the top of the connector going into the stereo as it is from above. i.e. orange is ignition live colour (as confirmed above) I'm assuming that switched and main wires are the wrong was around.

Reckon I'd be ok with simply disconnecting the battery and switching them around?
 
Don't you have a voltage meter ?

If not you could always test for power with a 12v bulb or 12v LED or a small 12v PC fan etc etc...
 
Don't you have a voltage meter ?

If not you could always test for power with a 12v bulb or 12v LED or a small 12v PC fan etc etc...

I do and i'll be testing them all. Where the red wire separates but the short bit ends quickly, do you think this is where there is a short? It looks like everything adds up except that one bit.
 
In all seriousness, under what circumstances are you thinking you might ever need to use one?

My point, a properly maintained and frequently used car should never need a jump start.

There may be solutions other than a jump pack that might be more suitable for you if we knew what the reasons might be.

:)

Best to be safe.
 
12.4v across terminals when engine off and fully charged, didn't start car. Should be about 12.8v shouldn't it so guessing a cell is dead?

Tested the stereo permanent 12v and was about 11.5v so ok, tested the orange ignition live and nothing as expected.

Tested the little bit soldered onto the red wire and that was between 6v-12v. Would this be a drain as it goes nowhere? Or is there a drain somewhere else?

In all fairness everything looks ok so it could be the stereo is kaput?
 
ok, update on this - not done anything other than leave it on a trickle charger for days on end. Went and unplugged it today, also unplugged the stereo to see if that would have an effect. The way I tested it as follows. On the pic below I set it to DCV 20 as shown:
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It showed 13.1V with engine off.
It showed 15.1V with engine on.

Seems a little high to me but maybe I was doing it wrong.
 
I'd take it to auto electricians, they deal with issues like this every day. Sounds like...

Duff battery
Duff alternator
Parasitic draw (either from a loose/worn cable or a faulty component).

I've had 2x such issues recently, faulty door lock actuator and bad radio. I own a ctek now too :D
 
If you really have over 15v across the battery when charging then something is wrong with the voltage regulator on the alternator.

A reading of over the battery's capacity when charging is nothing unusual, my truck reads between 28.5 and 29.5v when the engine is running, it's a 24v system i.e. 2 12v batteries linked together.
 
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