BMW 118D - rear driveshaft removal

SeatIbiza

SeatIbiza

SeatIbiza

Associate
Joined
21 Jan 2008
Posts
1,444
Location
Cotswolds
Hi all,

I have what is seemingly a common fault with these cars whereby the rear reluctor rings get rust under them and push it out and touches the sensor. A new ring can be ut onto the shaft but I need to get it out.

Problem is, no matter what Ive done: heat, penetrating spray, bashing the hell out of it etc. But it doesn't seem to have moved a mm!!

I've also disconnected it from the centre diff so that's not holding it back.

Anyone got any ideas? I've removed a load of these in the past (including every single one on my 2000 RS4) so I'm a bit stumped to say the least!

The BMW forums aren't particularly good either :(

Cheers,

James
 
The shaft seizing in the flange/hub is fairly common bmw's, we invested in a 20t press tool that mounts on to the front of the hub for them. If it's that stuck then hitting it may just compact the threads, you may have to take the hub off with the shaft and borrow a press from a local garage.

Be careful with heat, in can spread into the bearing and bake the grease or damage the plastic seals.
 
Yeh it really seems to be - my plan now is soaking it in penetrating oil (only got WD40 stuff currently but PB blaster on order) - and give it another bash on Friday after a week of spraying that in morning and evening.

This is my first (and very likely last) BMW and I can't believe how badly designed it is in places. The drum handbrake is just a joke!
 
SeatIbiza said:
The drum handbrake is just a joke!
Click to expand...

Many "High End" cars will use drum handbrakes because, actually, they work very well.

less of a compromise than the more common hand/foot brake callipers.

They can be a bit of a fiddle to replace however if you have not done it before.
 
That's not my experience of it (admittedly that experience is limited to this car). But, it's hands down the worst handbrake I've ever used. No handbrakes turns in this car!

And yes it does look very fiddly to change but saying that, you should really never need to, Maybe adjustments, but it's not doing any "braking" really.
 
SeatIbiza said:
That's not my experience of it (admittedly that experience is limited to this car). But, it's hands down the worst handbrake I've ever used. No handbrakes turns in this car!

And yes it does look very fiddly to change but saying that, you should really never need to, Maybe adjustments, but it's not doing any "braking" really.
Click to expand...


If it isn't locking the wheels then there is probably something wrong with it.

The problems that arise are corrosion on the inner drum (Because the handbrake isn't used for dynamic braking, you do not get the same self-cleeaning effect on the drum surface)

The little linkages also get corroded and seize which prevents the mechanism from providing full force (I would not be surprised of one or both are an issue in your case)

Remember to ALWAYS back off the handbrake shoes via the adjustment before attempting to remove the disk. If you just try to drag them off, you will damage the backing plate and that is a right ballache to replace.
 
I consider internal drum handbrakes 'job security'. Masses of bmw's fail the handbrake test as the surfaces corrode and become junk very easily. Using them after they have corroded glazes the surfaces and even though the handbrake feels good the efficiency is lousy.
 
I take it you're a mechanic/MOT tester?

replacement doesn't actually look too bad and I'm considering now overhauling the lot over now with new discs and handbrake shoes (did the pads already).

But the main reason for the job is to sort the mega ABS fault which makes the car undriveable unless you switch it all off...and then you have no ABS :S
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom