• Competitor rules

    Please remember that any mention of competitors, hinting at competitors or offering to provide details of competitors will result in an account suspension. The full rules can be found under the 'Terms and Rules' link in the bottom right corner of your screen. Just don't mention competitors in any way, shape or form and you'll be OK.

Priorities in Order Please

Soldato
Joined
1 Dec 2015
Posts
18,512
Interesting question for users on hear

Bar brand loyalty or even knowing which brand the card belonged to, Would would put first and last for selection a GPU?

Say if you were going to pick a GTX 1080 , which would you pick first and last to determine your card of choice

1) Base clock speed,
2) Temperature recorded at that base speed,
3) Power draw at that base speed

??????

secondly , do you automatically set your own fan curve ?

If you don't would you consider doing so if the Card was too loud even though temps and clock speed were fine?
or if the card temperature was to Hot for your liking yet doesn't throttle or sound to loud??

personally if, looks and branding where taking out of selecting a card long with warranty etc etc etc

I'd pick Speed, Temp and then power draw based on a GTX 1080
And I always customise my fan curve, turning off idle fans to have some sort of air flow over the card at its lowest RPM speed, and then start a curve from 50c to 80c being at 70% of max RPM

:)

sorry, could have used better grammar and structure but at work and was thinking about it

**if a mod could personally word it better or add two polls please feel free :D
 
Last edited:
1)warranty/brand rep
2)price
3)temps/noise

Factory oc or oc ability is a bonus/tie breaker if you will

Power draw not really relevant, I figure most variants of card x will be similar so who cares.
 
Warranty
After Care Customer Service Ability
Price to Factory Overclock Speed
Noise Levels when at 100% load

I am not bothered by temp or power drawer tbh as they don't affect the card itself. It must work at the factory overclock within the allowable temp and it must work within a reasonable amount to not worry about what it drawers in power anymore.

I know you suggest not looking at warranty but anything that doesn't get 3 years or more is already a no. Now if you took out cards with less than that I would then see what their reputation is like for handling warranty and out of warranty issues and take all those cards out that I don't feel offer the service for the cost it adds.

Then I look to see what offers what factory overclock for what price and decide if any offer a level of speed for the premium that I personally consider fair.

After that I have normally narrowed it down to 3 cards or so and I go on the hunt for some more detailed reviews and see what is stated about their noise. It isn't really critical but just making sure I don't have a mini tornado in the case is all I am checking.

If I was bored one day I then get around to overclocking and adding a custom fan curve to see what I can do for it.

The power drawer still wouldn't be on the radar of me ever looking into it. I know a stock 1080 with an i7-5960X drawers less than 300 watts so a decent 500-600watt PSU is all I will be looking at for future builds
 
In the selection process: Price and cooler performance first. Warranty and the brand reputation for customer service comes after but is the deciding factor of the remaining options that meet price/cooler performance.

I wont pay extra for service that should be standard. In that regard bad reputation would rule out some from the outset.
 
A good aftermarket card should be capable of keeping itself cool and quiet out of the box, If you manually overclock your card that's a different matter but even then it should only need changing if you push it hard.
 
Same as others really.

Warranty followed by price.

Pretty much all cards are much the muchness so quiet and cool would be a preference but not fussed.
 
Yeah certainly to start with. It should preform out the box close to what I expect and only when I am wanting to push it a little further do I consider that. I mean it almost doesn't matter on card anyways as if I then step up further I would be onto an AIO for it next.
 
1. Price and performance gains over current gpu i'm using.
2. Quality of the pcb components,cooler and dimensions of the card.
3. Thermal output of heat (for itx this is important to me).

Hence my rx470 was replaced by the 1060.
 
Price of said card
Brand Rep
How cool and quiet it is under load
Warranty ( this is not a major major issue as I'll always try and get the next best thing but always minimum 2 years as I'm still rocking a 980 Ti and luckily evga so if anything went wrong I'm still covered
 
None of the above

1. Are waterblocks available = yes

End of story.:)

Haha fair enough. If I knew I was going down the watercooling route I would honestly have to select EVGA because of warranty about removing coolers etc (assuming Nvidia) and at moment I don't know who in AMD brands offer similar however if I go AMD next time I would have to find that out to make a sale.
 
None of the above

1. Are waterblocks available = yes

End of story.:)

PRICELESS!

so would the price of the card or performance of the card before water effect your choice of card brand?

For instance Gigabytes Turbo is based a G1 board and cheaper then FE edition, would that sway you over EVAG reference designs that are slightly more costly but have 100% warranty with water blocks?

funny, not enough companies state their views on water block, I know Gigabyte dont mind if you dont screw it up and ASUS is the same, yet some of their models the slap warranty stickers on the screws like the 970 Turbo cards. I think Zotac are unoffically happy with waterblocks ... not 100% sure
 
PRICELESS!

so would the price of the card or performance of the card before water effect your choice of card brand?

For instance Gigabytes Turbo is based a G1 board and cheaper then FE edition, would that sway you over EVAG reference designs that are slightly more costly but have 100% warranty with water blocks?

funny, not enough companies state their views on water block, I know Gigabyte dont mind if you dont screw it up and ASUS is the same, yet some of their models the slap warranty stickers on the screws like the 970 Turbo cards. I think Zotac are unoffically happy with waterblocks ... not 100% sure

With 1080s very little matters as they all overclock about the same.

What is important is reference PCB and good warranty for watercooling so that means EVGA FE 1080.
 
It's quite refreshing to see the lower favoured brands pushing the boundaries compared to the favourite competition.

Xfx have worked hard with probably the best range of rx480's,
And zotac have experimented with itx boards for both the 1070 and 1080.
 
1) Noise both at idle and under load
2) Temperature under load
3) Warranty
4) Price

Brand "rep" isn't any kind of consideration. Only suckers are "loyal" to any brand and will end up with an inferior product sooner rather than later, given every company's tendency to screw things up periodically. An example being those who still parrot the line about Sapphire being the only AMD cards worth buying (as their Hawaii/Grenada/Fiji cards were amazing), despite their RX 480 being kind of garbage compared to MSI or XFX's. Or the mess EVGA made of their 1000 series lineup, though I suppose nobody can be blamed for buying those at the time, since the issues weren't known because the paid shills unbiased reviewers failed to mention/spot them.
 
1. Cooler efficiency (and noise levels).
2. Base speed.
3. Price.
4. Warranty.
5. Features (Dual BIOS, LED lighting).

It's a blend of those factors really.
 
1. Brand/confidence when buying/aftercare.
2. Cooler efficiency.
3. Price.
4. Features/overclock/clock speed etc.

I generally just stick the fan on auto.
 
1. Brand and aesthetics
2. Speed/noise/temps
3. Warranty

I couldn't now buy a card I didn't like the look of or that didn't fit my build even if it was the best all round card.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom