MOT brake check

[hugobosslives]

So I've got a MOT coming up on a 2001 160k miles car.

Checked around the usual had to do a number plate light (the screws had rusted so bad it took a good half and hour to get them out).
Was checking the tire tread when I saw that the rear brakes didn't look great. I changes the front pads last year as they were an advisory on the MOT. But not sure I've ever changed the rears? (possibly once though I don't remember doing them.

What constitutes a rear brake end of life (both for safety and the MOT limit). Ignore the disc rust as I'd literally just washed the car. Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/0Wcb6

I don't mind doing them and have put it on my list of jobs for the summer but do I need to do it now for the MOT (or even for safety/going through)?

 

[Clarkey]

Plenty of life in that, what about the inner pads though?

 

[Diagro]

Wow all that crud... You just washed the car you say? What about the brakes and the calipers??

 

[Orionaut]

So I've got a MOT coming up on a 2001 160k miles car.

Checked around the usual had to do a number plate light (the screws had rusted so bad it took a good half and hour to get them out).
Was checking the tire tread when I saw that the rear brakes didn't look great. I changes the front pads last year as they were an advisory on the MOT. But not sure I've ever changed the rears? (possibly once though I don't remember doing them.

What constitutes a rear brake end of life (both for safety and the MOT limit). Ignore the disc rust as I'd literally just washed the car. Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/0Wcb6

I don't mind doing them and have put it on my list of jobs for the summer but do I need to do it now for the MOT (or even for safety/going through)?

MOT rules seem to change all the time, so I do not know what the cirrent state of play is.

Last time I talked to an MOT person about this was with reference to some disks that were FAR worse than those.

He reckoned that as long as.

1) The disks are above minimum thickness and have no obvious other damage (Cracks etc)
2) The Pads are above minimum thickness
3) It passes on the rollers

Then it is a pass, and corrosion, even to such an extent that little "Shiny" metal remains, will just be an advisory.

Shocking really

 

[Cannonuk]

One of the three following statements must be true for brakes to fail. They are also subject to an efficiency measurement, usually in a set of rollers mounted in the floor of the test station.

"a brake lining or pad insecure or less than 1.5 mm thick at any point
h. a brake disc or drum contaminated by brake fluid, oil or grease
i. a brake disc or drum in such a condition that it is seriously weakened or insecure"

https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s03000501.htm

Brake visual checks are pretty much up to testers discretion. If possible, measurements can be taken but no disassembly is allowed. The image of the brakes in the OP are fine, infact they don't look more than roughly 20% worn.

 

[hugobosslives]

Thanks for the replies. Looking through my maintenance log (me writing in when I do stuff) they don't appear to be ever changed. Just the front pads twice and the front discs ones.
Car still stops very hard

 

[Orionaut]

Thanks for the replies. Looking through my maintenance log (me writing in when I do stuff) they don't appear to be ever changed. Just the front pads twice and the front discs ones.
Car still stops very hard

Remember, front brakes do most of the work, Cars will still stop quite well even with essentially non functioning rear brakes unless you are in a critical situation.

When you finally do get round to replacing those I would be surprised if the callipers were not at least partially seized. It all looks very corroded round there.

With the bleed nipple released, you should be able to push the piston back with firm finger pressure, if you cant it should be stripped and examined, and the calliper should either be overhauled or replaced.