Car Audio installs.

paintguy · 10 Jun 2017 at 16:51

That's weird.

You could use an accessory or ignition live instead, it would just mean that the amp would always be on whenever the car was, rather than being switched by the headunit. If you aim to always have the system on then it makes little difference, but probably not ideal.

cu3ed · 10 Jun 2017 at 17:00

Okay... Erm.... Is that running a line from the fuse box then?

paintguy · 10 Jun 2017 at 17:07

cu3ed said:
Okay... Erm.... Is that running a line from the fuse box then?

Or tap in to whichever switched live you have taken to your head unit (not the permanent live). The current draw on the remote wire (called system control in your case) is very low, typically a fraction of an amp, so won't overload the existing wire or fuse.

cu3ed · 10 Jun 2017 at 17:22

I'll go back and take a look for it.
Took a door card off, 4wired plug for the speaker. And even though bought my order was missing my connection converter.

cu3ed · 10 Jun 2017 at 17:26

paintguy said:
Or tap in to whichever switched live you have taken to your head unit (not the permanent live). The current draw on the remote wire (called system control in your case) is very low, typically a fraction of an amp, so won't overload the existing wire or fuse.

I've got a red (ignition (ACC) connection? Any use?

paintguy · 10 Jun 2017 at 17:42

Yes, that will do it.

As I say, it isn't ideal but if your head unit doesn't have a remote wire then it's the next best thing.

cu3ed · 10 Jun 2017 at 18:34

Ladies and gentlemen we have lift off!
Amp even turns off ( LED goes out) when ignition is off, I assume this is the best possible outcome then?

paintguy · 10 Jun 2017 at 19:03

cu3ed said:
Ladies and gentlemen we have lift off!
Amp even turns off ( LED goes out) when ignition is off, I assume this is the best possible outcome then?

Nice one!

And yes. It still seems strange that a unit like that doesn't have a remote output but what you have now is the next best thing.

cu3ed · 10 Jun 2017 at 19:12

Awesome....soundingbetter, cant wait to get the components into the fronts now as soon as the rest arrives.
I owe you one lol.

paintguy · 10 Jun 2017 at 19:40

Haha, not at all.

I got a lot of help here recently speccing a new PC so I'm just giving a little back

cu3ed · 11 Jun 2017 at 14:32

Just some images, finish touches, though still to sound deaden the doors and install the 6.5 components, maybe next weekend!

And yes..new hazzard lock switch is in the post lol.

ozaudio · 11 Jun 2017 at 18:03

I assume you know how to adjust your settings to get the best sound from your sub? most people just stick it on LPF and turn the gain all the way up. sounds like crap and clips like hell

Jonners · 11 Jun 2017 at 18:59

Perhaps the Wiring could be a bit tidier, and I should peel the stickers off the Amps.

cu3ed · 12 Jun 2017 at 11:24

ozaudio said:
I assume you know how to adjust your settings to get the best sound from your sub? most people just stick it on LPF and turn the gain all the way up. sounds like crap and clips like hell

Honestly im just playing around with the settings in the headunit, I think I do have LPF on.

cu3ed · 15 Jun 2017 at 20:43

So after waiting a week for Car Audio Direct to send me the speaker looms they forget to send initially, they are not the correct ones, despite checking there website!

So, without wanting to waste another weekend, is there a way I can hook my after market speakers...form the strange "four cable" connections current in the adaptor?

paintguy · 16 Jun 2017 at 08:30

Is it just one of your speakers that has 4 wires going to it?

I'm only guessing based on other cars, but assuming your car has handsfree phone capability you'll probably find that 2 of those wires are for the stereo, and the other two for phone system. The speaker itself will have two independent voice coils for this, one for each signal, something your aftermarket ones won't have.

Not sure how you would work around that as I've always used old school kit in older cars lol, but I would imagine that it's sorted out within the head unit.

Sorry I can't be of more help but it's all a bit "modern" for me

mushtafa · 16 Jun 2017 at 08:40

That terminal has 1x positive and 1x negative from the headunit, and 1x positive and 1x negative is just bridged within the speaker, and goes to the tweeter. Unplug the tweeter, and find the wire colours to confirm.

mushtafa · 16 Jun 2017 at 08:44

Looking at this picture confirms the positive and negative wires from the headunit. If you can't wait for the correct adaptor, you'll just have to cut the connector off. Have you checked in a local halfords? They stock a lot of Autoleads stuff.

cu3ed · 16 Jun 2017 at 08:57

Yea so by the looks of that, the middle two wire or forgetten about and it just the two outer connections actually carrying the "music" signals.
I got a whole bunch of splades and different grip connections so ill take a look into it tonight.
None of this could be simple!
Never thought of Halfrods to be honest, didnt think they woudl carry bits and bobs of that nature.

mushtafa · 16 Jun 2017 at 09:05

Halfords carry a fair amount actually, especially for modern cars. Those speaker connectors are probably the same for most Fords.

The inner two wires just signal wires to the tweeters.

If I've read the thread properly, you've got components to fit, so have a separate crossover box in the kit? If so, you cut the connector off (or use a converter), and wire them into the input of the crossover. The crossover will have two output pairs, one for the main/bass speaker, and one for the tweeter.