Powerline or start drilling...

Soldato
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So, a few months ago I had to move my main rig, for space reasons, into another room, first time its been in a different room to the router (TP Link Archer C7), so its the first time I've had to connect wirelessly, picked up a TP Link PCI wireless card (5ghz one!) and ever since the whole setup has been boiling my ****.

Some days it works flawlessly, the next it runs like complete arse.

This was the final straw, ~50ms ping on rocket league (via Ethernet is usually ~24ms) and lag direct from satans bung hole.


So...balls to wireless I need a wired connection back in my life and soon. The least hassle option would be a powerline setup, though I've been reading these can be very very hit and miss?

Next option is drill a hole in a wall and run a ~20m cable from the router to my PC - which let me assure you isn't my mrs preferred option :D

Thoughts?
 
I moved from powerline to wired late last year and have not regretted spending the time, a little money and effort.
I too have a wife that prefers the "invisible" option. When I told her I'd had enough and I'd be running a couple of CAT5E connections between ground floor and upper floor I was given "that look".
In the end I took the outside route.
So, I drilled out via an upstairs bedroom and then drilled in the front room located directly below the bedroom. I then ran 2x external grade CAT5E cables down the side of the house (these are black, mounted together so they look like one larger cable and very neat and tidy).
As we already had external cables for Sky these didn't look out of place.
At either end I used back boxes that were "no more nails" attached to the skirting boards and then CAT5E face plates. Again this looks really neat and tidy inside the house.
The added advantage with doing things this way is you're not putting any stress on the floor to floor cable. That stays put and you are just plugging things into a standard network "wall socket".

Don't be afraid to go outside the house if it means for an overall more direct route, it can and will look every bit as neat.
Whole job took me about two hours - terminating the 4 ends into the face plates was the longest part of the job.
 
Running external cables is the best way to do this without a doubt - although having used powerline adaptors for the better part of the last 10 years in my 3-storey property, mine have never missed a beat! I honestly can't remember even having to reboot them once!
 
Wired is always best but drilling should be the last resort if it's an issue.

Since you're using a static desktop you could try a high gain antenna as you're mostly likely using the omni directional one supplier with the card. Ideally the router would need one too but not required. If aligned correctly it could provide a solid connection. 2.4GHz would also be preferable if going through a couple of walls/objects. It's still highly dependent on the environment your in (simultaneous wireless users, neighboring access points or devices causing EM interference).

Powerline uses similar modulation to wireless and DSL for transmitting data over noisy lines and is susceptible to the same problems. Cable length, EM interference and adapter quality will determine the speeds you get. Drops will still occur but less than you'd get with wireless. Some of them also have a tendency to go into power saving mode (cheap TP-Link) too often which can become a nuisance. 100Mbps+ is possible but only with the higher end models and a short distance.

There is ethernet-over-coxial so if you already have a unused satellite or aerial socket that terminates near the router then that's an option. Of course, it will still depend heavily on the state of the wiring. 100Mbps is the best you could expect to achieve.
 
Powerline adaptors interfere with my line unfortunately. Cause all sorts of errors and SNRM problems. Never happened on ADSL but certainly happens on FTTC.

If anything on your ring main wiring causes issues with your phone line circuit (phone lines are not powered by your mains feed and the two generally shouldn't have anything to do with each other in most domestic installs), then you have a more serious problem.

Powerline depends on the quality/age of wiring on the circuit, if you plug into a main socket or spur, the use of extensions and whatever else may cause interference on the circuit like 'noisy' devices e.g. the compressor on a fridge/freezer kicking in/out can cause them issues. Personally wire it if possible, it's a better solution. I use powerline for temporary or remote installs in locations it's not immediately practical to run a cable to, or where the usage is basic e.g. kids streaming - I have feeds in the loft ready to drop, but not till I redecorate each room so powerline solves that.
 
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Think that's settled then guys, I'll pick up some cat6 and grab some tools from work.

I've had a look at laydown options for the cable, I can go a slightly longer route but barely see any cable due to furniture :)

Thanks all!!
 
CAT6 most definitely not required - the cost difference not being the only issue, CAT5e can be far easier to manipulate etc.
But your call at the end of the day and there is no reason not to go for CAT6 - just if you're hiding it, you might fins CAT5e easier.
 
People still say "save pennies, use Cat5"?

Nutters :D

5e does 10Gb at 45m, 6 goes up to 55m, 6a is 100m, 5e is perfectly adequate for a residential install unless you need to do a run greater than 45m. It's also easier to work with and cheaper.
 
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If anything on your ring main wiring causes issues with your phone line circuit (phone lines are not powered by your mains feed and the two generally shouldn't have anything to do with each other in most domestic installs), then you have a more serious problem.

Powerline depends on the quality/age of wiring on the circuit, if you plug into a main socket or spur, the use of extensions and whatever else may cause interference on the circuit like 'noisy' devices e.g. the compressor on a fridge/freezer kicking in/out can cause them issues. Personally wire it if possible, it's a better solution. I use powerline for temporary or remote installs in locations it's not immediately practical to run a cable to, or where the usage is basic e.g. kids streaming - I have feeds in the loft ready to drop, but not till I redecorate each room so powerline solves that.

The powerline adapters cause interference because they share the same frequency band as FTTC.
 
The powerline adapters cause interference because they share the same frequency band as FTTC.

Surely that should say '...can cause interference...'? The circumstances required to create such notable events are thankfully rare, generally they fall into the 'bad practice' category for either the contractors (electrician/telephone 'engineer') or the end user, a small number will be faulty equipment. In general, it doesn't affect the overwhelming majority of people, or rather it does but to a level that's not easily noticed.
 
5e does 10Gb at 45m, 6 goes up to 55m, 6a is 100m, 5e is perfectly adequate for a residential install unless you need to do a run greater than 45m. It's also easier to work with and cheaper.

Yup

If it's a new build, I'd say put in Cat6, due to the luxury of space. If you're adding in cables where you don't have free reign of cable access and easy routes, cat5e is the better choice; bends easily without damaging the cable and it's thinner.
 
Surely that should say '...can cause interference...'? The circumstances required to create such notable events are thankfully rare, generally they fall into the 'bad practice' category for either the contractors (electrician/telephone 'engineer') or the end user, a small number will be faulty equipment. In general, it doesn't affect the overwhelming majority of people, or rather it does but to a level that's not easily noticed.

Yes, can cause, you're quite right. I've tried lots in my house and they all cause interference. Had the mains checked and no issues at all reported with it.

I'm sure for most people they work just great but I was simply pointing out they're not perfect.
 
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