Climbing Everest

Out of interest how are the Sherpa's so strong, they seem to just do mutliple trips over a short time period, some probably don't even use oxygen, probably don't use high tech gear and probably don't train. Maybe it's a mental thing.
its partly genetic, these communities have lived at high altitude for so many generations and are very cutoff communities with extremely low breeding outside of the area. Of course living at high altitude helps as well. Then they are both physically and mentally strong and you say no training but they don't have desk jobs etc.
its like in africa where people carry many gallons of water on their head many miles every day, they don't train as such, but they do it everyday. Ok they don't climb Everest everyday but you get the point.
 
its partly genetic, these communities have lived at high altitude for so many generations and are very cutoff communities with extremely low breeding outside of the area. Of course living at high altitude helps as well. Then they are both physically and mentally strong and you say no training but they don't have desk jobs etc.
its like in africa where people carry many gallons of water on their head many miles every day, they don't train as such, but they do it everyday. Ok they don't climb Everest everyday but you get the point.

There is a 2015 documentary on them with the creative title of 'Sherpa'. Its an amazing documentary and details their genetic conditioning and also the fact that a lot of them do not want to climb Everest because of the dangers and hard work involved. a lot of them refused to climb one year because they were striking for better pay and working conditions.

If you are really into mountaineering documentaries I recommend Meru, which is technically the most difficult mountain to climb. It focuses on three guys and their attempts to summit.
 
There is a 2015 documentary on them with the creative title of 'Sherpa'. Its an amazing documentary and details their genetic conditioning and also the fact that a lot of them do not want to climb Everest because of the dangers and hard work involved. a lot of them refused to climb one year because they were striking for better pay and working conditions.

.
Yep pretty sure that's the one I saw.
 
its partly genetic, these communities have lived at high altitude for so many generations and are very cutoff communities with extremely low breeding outside of the area. Of course living at high altitude helps as well. Then they are both physically and mentally strong and you say no training but they don't have desk jobs etc.
its like in africa where people carry many gallons of water on their head many miles every day, they don't train as such, but they do it everyday. Ok they don't climb Everest everyday but you get the point.


There is somewhat less genetic differences than you might think, same with the east African runners. Scientists don't find any obvious advantages the east-Africans have, ever so slightly lighter legs and smaller feet but nothing obvious like high red blood cell count, increased heart volume, lung size etc. (and those latter attributes are adapted during training anyway). It is mostly just down to condition. as you say, a child that has to walk miles ot get water, 5 miles to school, help out ona hunt going 30-50 miles in a day. Doing that every day from the moment you can walk means that covering a marathon distance is quite trivial. The Tarahumara Indians aren't genetically unique, siply long distance running is part of their culture so without even specific training they can win 100 mile ultra-marathons wearing sandals and a skirt.

Genetically we are all evolved to be able to run massive distances efficiently, climb mountains etc. Our bodies are really exceptionally well engineering for long distance running, which is why we can outrun most animals over a long enough distance. That is in apart how our ancestors hunted, simply chasing an animal until it collapsed or overheated allowing us to get into spear range. Just in modern society we sit around all day and do exercise for fun rather than survival, and that makes a big difference in how far we can push ourselves.
 
There is somewhat less genetic differences than you might think, same with the east African runners. Scientists don't find any obvious advantages the east-Africans have, ever so slightly lighter legs and smaller feet but nothing obvious like high red blood cell count, increased heart volume, lung size etc. (and those latter attributes are adapted during training anyway). It is mostly just down to condition. as you say, a child that has to walk miles ot get water, 5 miles to school, help out ona hunt going 30-50 miles in a day. Doing that every day from the moment you can walk means that covering a marathon distance is quite trivial. The Tarahumara Indians aren't genetically unique, siply long distance running is part of their culture so without even specific training they can win 100 mile ultra-marathons wearing sandals and a skirt.

Genetically we are all evolved to be able to run massive distances efficiently, climb mountains etc. Our bodies are really exceptionally well engineering for long distance running, which is why we can outrun most animals over a long enough distance. That is in apart how our ancestors hunted, simply chasing an animal until it collapsed or overheated allowing us to get into spear range. Just in modern society we sit around all day and do exercise for fun rather than survival, and that makes a big difference in how far we can push ourselves.


I agree. Used to be a bit of a runner at school. A lot of it is in your mind, as soon as I started getting distracted by social things my physical side went downhill. African's probably have a better diet and are less bombarded by the kind of influences we have in this world, including alcohol, bad air, bad diet, food additives, medications, and all the media social pressures/fears, temptations that fill your mind. All adds up.
 
but it would be more fun to do a more technical line at lower altitude.

+1 Rather than an organized Everest trip with a bunch of strangers,much more rewarding to develop friends who do rock climbing/mountaineering, learn the trade,
and organise your own adventures in the Alps or closer, you take responsibility for yourselves and the shared experiences are life enriching.

Not sure whether the current commoditization of experiences, marathons, triathlons, ... everest ? is as rewarding.
 
+1 Rather than an organized Everest trip with a bunch of strangers,much more rewarding to develop friends who do rock climbing/mountaineering, learn the trade,
and organise your own adventures in the Alps or closer, you take responsibility for yourselves and the shared experiences are life enriching.

Not sure whether the current commoditization of experiences, marathons, triathlons, ... everest ? is as rewarding.

The very idea of challenging your body to see what and how much it can do under constant pressure fascinates me. Most of us live a life without doing anything remotely off the grid or different, sure Everest has become somewhat commercialized but no one should underestimate the difficulty in that climb irrespective of a load of Sherpas dragging your stuff up for you. Its not a trek, and its not a casual walk, its hard as hell. So many people who attempt it dont make it for a number of reasons, some of it health related, some of it due due to acclimatization, some of it just bad luck with the weather not permitting safety with a summit attempt (there is a very small window in April/May), and sometimes people die attempting it (6 people have died this year). There are only a handful of people that do this every year, and if I was comfortable using that much income to have a go, I would. Failing that though the closest I will get will be my kid glove trips to the southern base camp.

Next year I would like to go to the base camp at K2 in Pakistan (where I live makes it cheap to travel to these places), that has a much easier cost to digest (its about 3 to 4k). There is a window in July and August to do this, but it will depend on what we do for our summer vacation.

If we spend 5 weeks in Orlando like this year, I dont think I will be comfortable plugging this amount of cash into it.
 

Not the same scale as Everest but very fun, especially if you're into volcanoes. I've been up a few, including Etna and most recently Fuego (in Guatemala). The former we couldn't get too close to the lava because of the location, but Fuego erupted 5 times during the night we were there and several times in the morning. A great experience, and you really don't need that much fitness, it's usually just a non technical slog - usually the altitude is the biggest issue, much of it is going from around sea level to 3500-4000m+ in a single day.

Really want to do Nyiragongo in the DRC but it's off the list at the moment as the GF won't be allowed to travel there. :(

Initially, I thought, that's not too bad. But thinking about it, its actually pretty terrible odds given the stake.

Don't even consider K2 then. The death rate for that mountain is around a quarter (not a quarter of Everests, but a quarter of the people that have tried to climb it have died).
 
Last edited:
See, being on the highest point isn't a great appeal to me, yeh it would be cool, but it would be more fun to do a more technical line at lower altitude. I've climbed Mont Blanc while I've been in the Alps, but there were much more interesting climbs lower down.

The idea of such a long, boring slog in the winter is just not for me either. Days slogging up snow covered slopes at (relative) altitude is pretty boring. More technical, interesting routes, for me too. That said I would love to stand on the crest of Everest, I'm just not sure it's worth the effort! :p
 
Next year I would like to go to the base camp at K2 in Pakistan (where I live makes it cheap to travel to these places), that has a much easier cost to digest (its about 3 to 4k)
what do you estimate gear costs as -
Double boots, 4 season bag+mat, goretex or equivalent w'proofs, rucsac, clothing, probably harness/crampons/axe not needed, £1.5K-2K ? (luxury - satellite phone £600?)

Insurance costs too - what do they run at ?
 
what do you estimate gear costs as -
Double boots, 4 season bag+mat, goretex or equivalent w'proofs, rucsac, clothing, probably harness/crampons/axe not needed, £1.5K-2K ? (luxury - satellite phone £600?)

Insurance costs too - what do they run at ?

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2016/12/18/how-much-does-it-cost-to-climb-mount-everest/

Insurance $70 – $3,000
  • Evacuation Insurance $70 (American Alpine Club) – ~$500 (Global Rescue/TravelEx)
  • Medical only $500
  • Rescue Insurance for any reason with medical insurance and trip cancellation coverage – $3,000 (TravelEx)
  • Private pay helicopter evacuation from Everest South – $5,000 – $20,000 depending on start and end locations (not available on north)
  • All insurance figures are representative and will vary widely with age, length of trip and total cost.
 
The idea of such a long, boring slog in the winter is just not for me either. Days slogging up snow covered slopes at (relative) altitude is pretty boring. More technical, interesting routes, for me too. That said I would love to stand on the crest of Everest, I'm just not sure it's worth the effort! :p

Usually the snow plod is the necessary evil needed to get to the base of the route, not the main aim!
 
what do you estimate gear costs as -
Double boots, 4 season bag+mat, goretex or equivalent w'proofs, rucsac, clothing, probably harness/crampons/axe not needed, £1.5K-2K ? (luxury - satellite phone £600?)

Insurance costs too - what do they run at ?

A decent jacket (and given how much of a life saver it can be you don't want to cheap out) can cost £100s alone. You wouldn't want to cheap out on the boots either.
 
Usually the snow plod is the necessary evil needed to get to the base of the route, not the main aim!

Depends which route/mountain you're doing.

Either way it's boring as sin, especially on the way down when you wish you could just ski down it in about 15 minutes.:p

Edit: to clarify im talking about less technical routes being boring as it's basically just a slog up a slope. Mind over matter really counts there, forcing you to keep putting that one foot in front of the other until you get to the top.
 
you could just ski down it in about 15 minutes

"Climbing K2 is like winning the Olympic gold medal," says Connecticut climber Heidi Howkins, who used Everest as a practice site for her two unsuccessful attempts on 28,250-foot K2, the world's second-highest peak. "The normal Everest route through the Kumbu Icefall has a top-to-bottom average gradient (slope) of 27 percent. No route on K2 has less than a 47 percent gradient."

might be slushy, that would not be much fun , so will need to stay overnight up top, and if you have not got frost-bite,
there are some nice run-outs over the ice falls so need need a strict no falls technique
after slipping you can gather a lot more speed sliding down a slope even 27percent, trying to eject you skis (with the tightened bindings)
rather than just a slippery goretex and an ice axe ready to hand.
 
Back
Top Bottom