To PCP or not to PCP

Plus APR rates are bound to be better on a new car, the list prices are inflated. Even with dealer deposit contributions, you're still paying a partly inflated price. To me, the best option in many cases is still to go nearly new, with bank loan if necessary.

Manufacturers are doing a very good job of convincing people they need a car £10k, £20k or £30k+ more expensive than they'd usually have, even with bank loans.
 
Personally I’d never sign up for a PCP that I couldn’t afford to pay the final payment for by the time it comes due. Anyone that signs up for something they cannot afford to buy at the end of the term is baffling.
 
To the OP - The type and price of the car makes a big difference to the answer, if it's a Dacia Sandero vs. a BMW M3 then the amount of capital you are putting out there is huge for one, compared to not a lot for the other. This makes a difference (IMO) as to where the money could be better spent, unless you have zero other debt, e.g. mortgage, CC's and such.
 
Personally I’d never sign up for a PCP that I couldn’t afford to pay the final payment for by the time it comes due. Anyone that signs up for something they cannot afford to buy at the end of the term is baffling.
Why would you want/need to buy it at the end. Give it back and get something else.
 
If you don’t want to be continuously tied into a new agreement? If you can’t afford to buy it at the end then you’re renting something you don’t earn enough money for.

If you’re in that situation then you either have to keep renting or go without a car / buy something that’s far less appealing.
 
You've not paid £62 a month at all you've paid £30,000 over 4 years, which is £625 a month.

No wonder PCP looks good if people can convince themselves the monthly rate is 10 times lower than it is!
m8, i think u got me wrong. yup, you're paying over 600/month, but if someone is looking at a RS3 for 4 years, then either u pay £30k over 4 years via pcp or you pay £52k up front and get £~25k back selling the car after 4 years, so out of pocket £27k over the same period. Thus, for someone wanting a brand new RS3 then effectively the difference in your bank account over that 4 years is that £3k, for the luxury of monthly payments. Yeah, your monthly salary is hit over £600, which for many is a mortgage payment, so crazy money for the average joe...

to be clear, I (personally) think the above RS pcp "deal" is crazy, with a massive apr and deposit.

Personally I’d never sign up for a PCP that I couldn’t afford to pay the final payment for by the time it comes due. Anyone that signs up for something they cannot afford to buy at the end of the term is baffling.
I agree - the only way to maximise the return of the car is to be able to trade it in elsewhere and get a competitive quote. If you have a bmw on pcp and at the end of the term admit to bmw you can't afford the balloon then they know you're pretty much locked into another car from them to get anything at all back from the car you're returning (so what incentive is there to give you a good deal?!?)... The only way you can change that is to buy the car outright and then either keep the car until a better deal comes along, or change dealer and see what someone else has to offer.
 
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Ok, getting a new (used by less than 2 years old) car on Friday.

We have the money to buy it outright but want to understand if there is any benefit to PCP or not.

Is there any benefit to PCP, I am put off by the high interest rates, and cant seem to see the need to do it.

The plan is to not replace the car within the next 3-5 years. If its anything like the one its replacing it will be owned for at least 10 years.

OCUK motors, your thoughts on this matter are requested.

If you're certain that you'll be keeping the vehicle for 10 years then PCP is not the best way to go.

Regardless I would never advise paying cash for a vehicle, why put a large amount of cash into a depreciating asset, where running costs increase over time.

How do you normally purchase your cars? Have you ever had any sort of finance at all? Why do you want to keep your car for a long period of time?

Personally I’d never sign up for a PCP that I couldn’t afford to pay the final payment for by the time it comes due. Anyone that signs up for something they cannot afford to buy at the end of the term is baffling.

Very few customers pay the GFV. They tend to part exchange and use the value in the car to pay off the final payment.

The issue we're coming across is many customers have negative equity, even towards the end of their agreement, and even if they've put a large deposit down initially.
 
If you don’t want to be continuously tied into a new agreement? If you can’t afford to buy it at the end then you’re renting something you don’t earn enough money for.
There are no rules which state you have to pay for the car in full - you pay your money and take your choice. There is nothing wrong with renting if you can afford the monthly payments.
 
I agree - the only way to maximise the return of the car is to be able to trade it in elsewhere and get a competitive quote. If you have a bmw on pcp and at the end of the term admit to bmw you can't afford the balloon then they know you're pretty much locked into another car from them to get anything at all back from the car you're returning (so what incentive is there to give you a good deal?!?)... The only way you can change that is to buy the car outright and then either keep the car until a better deal comes along, or change dealer and see what someone else has to offer.

You're not necessarily tied to the car at all. There are three options at the end of a PCP. Keep the car by paying off the final payment, part exchange the vehicle where the value of the car i.e what a dealership gives in part exchange value settles the final payment, if the car is worth more than the final payment then you have that as equity, if it's worth less then you have to pay the difference, or the final option is to hand the car back and walk away.

As I mentioned previously, I'm finding most customers have negative equity, even towards the end of their term. They are able to hand the vehicle back, even if they've exceeded the mileage, the charges are cheaper than trying to cover the negative equity when part exchanging.

A customer can also do a voluntary termination once they have paid at least half of the total amount.

Infact it's something we tend to encourage. If a customer walks in and they are "upside down" by a few thousand, and have a few thousand to put down as a deposit, it makes no sense using their deposit to clear the negative equity, when they can hand the car back. It's also far preferable for us as a part exchange tends to be a barrier in most cases. Everyone always thinks their car is worth far more than it is. "I've seen them going on AutoTrader for X amount".

Why would you want/need to buy it at the end. Give it back and get something else.

Exactly. A lot of people see the benefit. They go for a PCP on a new car, they benefit from the lower APR, Deposit contributions, and have manufacturers warranty throughout their ownership, no MOT to worry about etc, and then they start again.

It's easy to say anyone who finances can't afford the car, but even wealthy people finance cars. I work at a premium dealership and 70% of sales are funded by finance. The cars that aren't funded using dealership finance are either the cheap older used vehicles, or people using "cash" from a bank loan to buy a used cars.
 
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You're not necessarily tied to the car at all.

As I mentioned previously, I'm finding most customers have negative equity, even towards the end of their term. They are able to hand the vehicle back, even if they've exceeded the mileage, the charges are cheaper than trying to cover the negative equity when part exchanging.

A customer can also do a voluntary termination once they have paid at least half of the total amount.

Infact it's something we tend to encourage. If a customer walks in and they are "upside down" by a few thousand, and have a few thousand to put down as a deposit, it makes no sense using their deposit to clear the negative equity, when they can hand the car back. It's also far preferable for us as a part exchange tends to be a barrier in most cases. Everyone always thinks their car is worth far more than it is. "I've seen them going on AutoTrader for X amount".
I never said you're tied to the car or are unable to walk away from the contract early via VT.

I'm just thinking that if you like the car and complete the term (with it in good condition and under the agreed miles) then it's usually used as bait to be deposit for a new contract. so, the only way to get the maximum "trade in" value for the car is to get quotes from other dealers/companies and if they'll offer something better as trade in than your existing dealer's roll-over deposit - if that's the case then you need to pay the balloon and move on... Surely it's the only way to have any leverage to get a good deal? If you don't pay the balloon then you either walk away with nothing or you're stuck with the next "amazing" deal from the same dealer, who'll do a special and write off the existing debt/fees, as long as you can sign up for the next one? (or am I too cynical?!?)
 
I never said you're tied to the car or are unable to walk away from the contract early via VT.

I'm just thinking that if you like the car and complete the term (with it in good condition and under the agreed miles) then it's usually used as bait to be deposit for a new contract. so, the only way to get the maximum "trade in" value for the car is to get quotes from other dealers/companies and if they'll offer something better as trade in than your existing dealer's roll-over deposit - if that's the case then you need to pay the balloon and move on... Surely it's the only way to have any leverage to get a good deal? If you don't pay the balloon then you either walk away with nothing or you're stuck with the next "amazing" deal from the same dealer, who'll do a special and write off the existing debt/fees, as long as you can sign up for the next one? (or am I too cynical?!?)

The one thing I'd say with regards to trade in values is some dealerships just play with figures.

Every dealership sings from the same hymn sheet with regards to value, your car is worth what it's worth. If you find a dealership that gives you say £1000 more trade in value, they won't be standing the car in for more. They tend to use finance contributions or discounts to artificially inflate the part exchange value.

So let's say a customers car is worth £3000 at CAP average, they're looking at a car priced at £10,000, where we have £500 to play with, we could say we'll give £3500 for their part exchange so they have a cost to change of £6500. Or we could say we'll give £3000 and sell our car at £9500 which is still a £6500 cost to change.

Even if a dealer says they'll give £4500 for the £3000 car, by using the £1000 deposit contribution, and £500 to play with, they have to stand the car in at it's true value for when it goes to auction etc. Any sales manager seen to be paying above "book value" for part exchanges, and then constantly making losses at auction would be out of a job quite quickly.

So let's say you were going to various dealers and one of them offered you a "super part exchange value" by over £1500 more than other dealers, I'd bet my life on it that the order forms would NOT show your part exchange value being £1500 more, they'd just be getting to that cost to change by discounting the car they're selling.

My sales manager is always looking to write some business, if a customer walks in and is upside down, we always look to do what we can to get the business, standing their car in as much as possible, and using deposit contributions. Unfortunately with so many people not having any equity in their cars, the way we can do the "best" deal is by taking the part exchange out of the equation, e.g handing the car back.

Regardless of all of the above, the best deal any customer is going to get is when we're short of our target. In February for example we were short 3 new cars, my sales manager was losing money on deals to hit the target (to get his bonus). The end of the month is usually the best time to come in, although some dealerships operate differently.

Some do "normal" deals and then pee the profit out of the front end and back end to hit their target, and others do that at the start of the month and sell "normal" deals for the remainder of the month.
 
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There are no rules which state you have to pay for the car in full - you pay your money and take your choice. There is nothing wrong with renting if you can afford the monthly payments.

I've "rented" every car I've owned from the age of 21 I'm 43 now..not PCP but in the shape of a loan or finance. I keep cars for 3 yrs max maybe...Apart from one that is now used as a family pool car..As soon as the loan/finance is paid off (sometimes early If i fancy a change) I've swapped into another one.. I can't remember not "renting" a car.

For what we are paying for the finance on the wifes Merc we could both be in brand new PCP cars.... which we could then spread the mileage around if needed
 
Regardless I would never advise paying cash for a vehicle, why put a large amount of cash into a depreciating asset, where running costs increase over time.

I dont understand this comment. Which ever you pay for your cars, you are putting a large amount of money into a depreciating asset, the difference being with cash you are not paying any interest. :confused:

I tend to buy 2 year old cars so they have depreciated a fair chunck from new and are still in warranty and its nice not having to owe a penny for them by paying cash. Keep them for about 3 years and then trade it in for something else.
 
Taking standard dealer pcp on a second hand car is an expensive way to buy a car. You should be able to secure better finance to fund as most dealers will have high interest rates. With a good credit rating you could secure an interest rate within 3-4% but would need to shop around
 
Nobody is suggesting that either, as that would be quite foolish.

Well, they kind of are. "Use the cash if you have it", and "PCP is for people who can't afford a car by other means" are both ambiguous ways of saying "Got £30k for a £30k car? Use that fooool....."
 
First off, saying PCP is only for people that can't afford outright is a bit of a silly thing to say, IMO. Some people (like me) may not be comfortable dumping tens of thousands of pounds in a single transaction, even if it's possible.

I'm not too sure about PCP for a few reasons, IE I don't particularly like is the restrictions imposed, ie for mileage. I like to have freedom with my car regardless of what I use it for and where I go
 
Just for confirmation, there is no 0% PCP deal on offer here otherwise I would have jumped on it. We also do not plan on changing the car after 3, 5 years. Probably more like 10 years time before a new car is considered.

We have the money as part of a remortgage at a low interest rate of 1.79% so nothing is coming close in terms of PCP/HP/Personal Loan.

We will overpay the extra amount that this addition money will cost us so effectively reducing the interest paid on the amount borrowed to the same period a PCP or HP or Loan deal would have been over (5 years) and it seems like this is the best way for use to go.

Thanks for the input everyone.

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If you're certain that you'll be keeping the vehicle for 10 years then PCP is not the best way to go.
How do you normally purchase your cars? Have you ever had any sort of finance at all? Why do you want to keep your car for a long period of time?

Sorry I missed a few posts before I made mine.

In terms of why we will be keeping the car so long, this is a car for my Wife and she's happily kept her current car for about 14 years. The car at the time was its self already 4 years old.

The new car is only 18months old and so 10 years is a reasonable assumption to make for how long it will be kept.

Also the new car is a KIA and so we will have the next 5 years covered under warranty and have got 5 years servicing as part of the deal as well.

Our annual mileage is low on her car currently around 3k per year but this will increase as we will use her car more at weekends then mine, and our daughter now goes to a school in the next village so that's a new 10 miles per day total to add on but still cannot see either of our cars hitting 10k per year.
 
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Owning a car outright will probably become a thing of past anyway. So many manufacturers are launching their own subscription service where you pay a set fee each month (which includes the costs of insurance, maintenance and breakdown cover) and you choose to swap to drive any car in your sub category.


e.g. BMW and Mini : https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/bmw-and-mini-launch-pay-you-go-subscription-service

It's a maintenaned lease with a funky name surely? 570 quid a month for a 3 door Mini, wow.
 
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