Anyone sharpen their own lawnmower blades?

Yes - just need a metal file.

Contrary to what you'd think, you don't need it to be razor sharp, just a couple of passes to reprofile the dull edge.

Ideally you completely remove the blade and hold it in a vice, but the bolts on mine are so seized that I just disconnect spark plug lead, tilt lawnmower over, and wedge one side of blade with a couple of bricks to stop it moving.

www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/lawn-mower-repair/lawn-mower-blade-sharpening/amp/
 
x-st said:
Is there any disadvantage to them being sharp?
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You can make them razor-sharp, but they dull very quickly, so not much point. Better to aim for butter-knife sharpness which is enough not to rip the grass, and has a reasonable blade profile, that will last fairly well.
 
Depends on the condition of the blade, but I normally sharpen the blade once a year with a file attachment for my drill.
 
Whilst probably not the recommended approach I just take the blade of twice a year and grind a new sharp edge using a bench grinder. I might eventually run out of metal and need to change the blade in a few years though
 
a file is a bit ruthless (can scar blade) - a carborundum stone (pocket hone) with a bit of lubricating oil ... similar to shears;
scrape off dried grass residue with a razor blade first
 
I've just refurbished a ride on mower, the blades looked like someone had cut gravel - took them off, used an angle grinder and a bench grinder - working fine now - must remember to balance the blade or you get significant vibration.
 
Used to design lawnmowers in a past life :)

Cylinder blade, keep it as sharp as you can, just run a file over it every couple of months or so during the season takes about 15mins, and a nice excuse to be out in the sun.

Anything else is just brute force ripping, but it wont hurt to follow the above rule.
 
If you have a dremel its a piece of cake and takes about 5-10 mins. You can also remove them and use a belt sander, or a old sharpening stone. They don't need to be razor sharp.
 
Clov!s said:
Send me a message if you want me to sharpen it for you, easily done. :)
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Thank you for the offer, and thanks all for the advice.

I currently have a rotary petrol lower and am seriously considering buying a cylinder mower for stripes. So a slight change of tack, but I'll follow the above when it comes to sharpening the blade.
 
I sharpen mine up with a flap wheel on a grinder. Then rest on a big ball bearing on a marking plate to check its balance.
Sounds extreme but I do have bits of gravel and all sorts amongst my lawn :D
 
Blackjack Davy said:
Balance it with your finger on the hole in the middle and make sure its level
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NoNameNoNumber said:
Then rest on a big ball bearing on a marking plate to check its balance.
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interesting - I guess we're talking horizontal blade variety (not rotary), have never checked balance, but I'm surprised stone hits would take away a significant mass of metal.
(keep meaning to look at the electric motor brushes on my B&D which can sometimes sound a bit laboured)
 
Update, as I know you're all waiting with baited breath!

I decided to stick with rotary in the end, so I whipped off the blade and took it to my local garden machinery centre, who sharpened it and balanced it for £6.

It's very sharp now. Way sharper than when it was new! Off for a mow now...
 
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