Malcolm will do you a custom set if you ring him up. i'm ~82kg and i'd probably go 24/28 for a "fast" wheelset
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Malcolm will do you a custom set if you ring him up. i'm ~82kg and i'd probably go 24/28 for a "fast" wheelset
Are you looking for super light wheels or do anything wheels? I'd recommend the MASON X HUNT 4 SEASON unless you are after superlight. The extra seals just give a bit more versatility to them. Doubt you'll notice the extra grams.
I'd stay away from tubless as well, had a total mare with them last year. When they pop and it doesn't seal you're left with a bike covered in gunk and having to scoop it out to fit a tube to get you home anyway. Then you need to clean it all out and start again with a chance you'll need a new tyre if the hole is too big. I've had less punctures with gp4000s ii and std tubes than with schwalbe tubless.
I'm 86kg and Mark @ Spokesmanwheels said 24/24 would be an option (instead of 28/28) "but at an slightly increased risk of spoke failure under heavy braking."
I'm 75.6kg (as of this morning), but was carrying nearly 80kg through winter. My Diverge, a gravel bike designed for rough terrain came with 'only' 24/24 spokes and my replacement wheels (Zipp 30 course) came in 24/24 so I would say you do not need more (was going to comment before - 'why go lighter carbon rims if then going spoke heavy?'). Those are both wheelsets designed for disc brakes and rough terrain! I did break 3 nipples on the original Diverge wheels (AXIS4.0 which are known as being quite poo), but I would say that was mostly through fatigue and the wheels randomly losing tension (bad nipples?). Didn't break any after I replaced all the nipples myself.
The Shimano RS81 C24 rim brake wheels I use on my Giant have 'only' 16 front, 20 rear. Never had any issues with them in around ~1500 miles, some of it stop/start commuting (so around 82kg loaded), but I wasn't really pushing any boundaries with them, or riding off road/up down kerbs etc. The front wheel has 'done' around 800-1000 miles more while the bike was sat on the trainer with me forcing weight through the bars sprinting/climbing. So a stationary wheel being exerted to multiple stresses, without spinning to spread the load over multiple months with Zero issues. Impressive really (although my sprint is nothing to get excited about, it still wins me numerous races/places).
Although wheelbuilders do seem to prefer tougher wheelsets by going spoke heavy as they like to warranty their 'builds'. Large brands with factory built wheels are less concerned over the longevity/warranty side of things as a lighter wheel will sell better than a heavy one at any given price point. Easiest way to do that is to drop a couple of spokes!
The Shimano RS81 C24 rim brake wheels I use on my Giant have 'only' 16 front, 20 rear. Never had any issues with them in around ~1500 miles, some of it stop/start commuting (so around 82kg loaded), but I wasn't really pushing any boundaries with them, or riding off road/up down kerbs etc. The front wheel has 'done' around 800-1000 miles more while the bike was sat on the trainer with me forcing weight through the bars sprinting/climbing. So a stationary wheel being exerted to multiple stresses, without spinning to spread the load over multiple months with Zero issues. Impressive really (although my sprint is nothing to get excited about, it still wins me numerous races/places).
Although wheelbuilders do seem to prefer tougher wheelsets by going spoke heavy as they like to warranty their 'builds'. Large brands with factory built wheels are less concerned over the longevity/warranty side of things as a lighter wheel will sell better than a heavy one at any given price point. Easiest way to do that is to drop a couple of spokes!
Last edited:
it's not uncommon for factory wheels to have metal (and therefore weight) put into the rim to support heavier riders with lower spoke counts. They are a one-size-fits-most effort, and may be overbuilt for light riders
A rim used by a builder (assuming the same model, obvs) is the same extrusion regardless of spoke count, and so matching the spoke count to the rider is more of a concern.
factory wheels are one-size-fits-most, builder wheels are tailored to *you* and someone like hunt is in a middle ground, being builder wheels but with specific "flavours" you have to choose.
I'm quite conservative in my spoke-count choices, my thinking always starts from 32/32 and varies from there depending on specific usage. i'd rather spec 4 spokes too many and build a wheel that runs til the rim wears out with only the odd gentle true from time to time than 4 too few and spend time riding a floppy noodle and/or truing it all the time
the approximate weight of 4 DT competition spokes is 25g, well below the resolution of most bike-weighing scales.
A rim used by a builder (assuming the same model, obvs) is the same extrusion regardless of spoke count, and so matching the spoke count to the rider is more of a concern.
factory wheels are one-size-fits-most, builder wheels are tailored to *you* and someone like hunt is in a middle ground, being builder wheels but with specific "flavours" you have to choose.
I'm quite conservative in my spoke-count choices, my thinking always starts from 32/32 and varies from there depending on specific usage. i'd rather spec 4 spokes too many and build a wheel that runs til the rim wears out with only the odd gentle true from time to time than 4 too few and spend time riding a floppy noodle and/or truing it all the time
the approximate weight of 4 DT competition spokes is 25g, well below the resolution of most bike-weighing scales.
Soldato
- Joined
- 9 Nov 2005
- Posts
- 9,534
- Location
- Southampton, hopefully not too hot, or too cold
Hunt Aero Light Disc ordered from Hunt, plus a set of Ultegra SM-RT800 Ice Tech FREEZA centrelock rotors from Merlin (using some of my loyalty points to reduce price to ~£75). 
The rotors might not arrive tomorrow, but in theory, the wheels will. Presuming I have the right BB tool, I can always fit the 6-bolt adaptors and use the existing 6-bolt rotors for a few days.
Plus ordered some bulk fish food from Ebay to make use of today's 10% discount code PEREFECTTEN.
Some weight is lifted off my shoulders.
The rotors might not arrive tomorrow, but in theory, the wheels will. Presuming I have the right BB tool, I can always fit the 6-bolt adaptors and use the existing 6-bolt rotors for a few days.
Plus ordered some bulk fish food from Ebay to make use of today's 10% discount code PEREFECTTEN.
Some weight is lifted off my shoulders.
FFS! What's that challenge? Climbing? Mine are probably all commutes
EDIT: Yeah it's the June climbing one. Mine should leapfrog yours by tomorrow lunchtime so enjoy it while it lasts buddy!
Yeah that was the climbing one. Cheap shot I know
Probably a combination, take a break for a few days/a week to really put things into perspective. Choose you 'want' to ride, rather than feeling you 'need' to. I found this hard myself as commuting most days really doesn't help you 'want' to ride.
Zonda C17 Disc - Probably right to be hesitant. Although I've heard nothing 'bad', I've equally not heard anything 'good'. Thinking how solid and supremely loved the rim version where I'm surprised to not hear more about these.
Fulcrum 5 DB - Probably fine, although you do know Fulcrum is Campagnolo don't you?
I wouldn't be worried over either brand to be honest. Both well known and regarded when it comes to wheels.Alex CXD4 - Review well, certainly one to consider if you didn't want to max your budget. 3 colour decal would bug me. Great weight and being tubeless is a surprise for that price.
Prime Pro Disc - Would avoid, have only heard bad things about Prime so far. Just too cheap. There's a reason the Wiggle ebay page always has sets up for sale.
Hope custom wheel build - Fantastic hub but I'd want different rims on it. DT Rims are not expensive and very well regarded, as are brands like Hplusson and kinlin.
Borg22 - No idea, probably good but do your own research on the components used.
I wouldn't worry about tubeless, certainly not now you have those new GP4ksii. I've done the same this summer but will be revisiting tubeless for winter as I'm getting close to needing new winter tyres.
True, I always figured this was why 'off the shelf' wheelset weights generally varied so much - as every rim they purchase gets used. A wheelbuilder will generally pick and choose his rims dependant on the application. Heavier rims getting built into the 'everyday' wheelsets with the best ones getting made into the 'summer' wheelsets.
Good choice, although the RT800 rotors are awesome it always bugged me how less awesome they look than the black DA ones! But we know I'm picky... Although nothing some paint wouldn't solve!Hunt Aero Light Disc ordered from Hunt, plus a set of Ultegra SM-RT800 Ice Tech FREEZA centrelock rotors from Merlin (using some of my loyalty points to reduce price to ~£75).
Haha, well noticed though! Love the banter, keep it up!Yeah that was the climbing one. Cheap shot I know
EDIT: Have a great weekend all!
Last edited:
Pacenti seemed to have the best rim reputation vs price when I was getting mine built. The Belgium rims are just daft moneywise.
24/28 on my lower profile alloy training wheels and 20/24 on the deep carbon race wheels the deep section probably adds some stiffness?.
Was thinking of doing a few hours on the P3 on Sunday as missed out riding this week, just there’s nowhere to carry or anything, one bottle holder, can’t get a saddlebag on there either! Be strapping stuff to the handlebar and aerobars!
24/28 on my lower profile alloy training wheels and 20/24 on the deep carbon race wheels the deep section probably adds some stiffness?.
Was thinking of doing a few hours on the P3 on Sunday as missed out riding this week, just there’s nowhere to carry or anything, one bottle holder, can’t get a saddlebag on there either! Be strapping stuff to the handlebar and aerobars!
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Jul 2007
- Posts
- 5,511
- Location
- London
Just stuff your back pockets with stuff?
Got pacenti rims on my MTB. Well made and nice to build up.
Belgiums are a great rim, but they should be for the price they're charging.
With all else equal a deeper rim should be stiffer than a shallower one - more material tells.
Even a spare bottle? Not very aero! Might loop round home or buy a coke somewhere.
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Jul 2007
- Posts
- 5,511
- Location
- London
Don't need to be aero to train do you?
If carrying extra gear and what you look like on training rides bothers you that much just bury a 5l supermarket carton in a hedge somewhere and loop round or head back past your own door roughly when you expect to need to refill distance wise.
Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Dec 2004
- Posts
- 17,114
- Location
- Shepley
A couple of hours on one bottle and stuff in your pockets should be more than doable unless you take your workshop on the road like Roady.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,648
The guy I did 100 with on Tuesday had 4 800ml bottles, two on the bike and two in his jersey pockets!
I take two and top them up at a shop at the halfway mark usually.
I take two and top them up at a shop at the halfway mark usually.
Derek Watt is a great name for a cyclist!
EDIT: Yeah it's the June climbing one. Mine should leapfrog yours by tomorrow lunchtime so enjoy it while it lasts buddy!
O RLY
I'll thank my parents for that one
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Nov 2009
- Posts
- 5,392
First ride on the Quarq cranks, very interesting data from it for sure.
L/R balance. How close to 50/50 is acceptable? Strava showing 48/52, Garmin connect showing 45/55. The Garmin result sounds concerning.
What do I want to display on the Wahoo? Currently got current W and NP... Feel like the current W fluctuates too much, maybe that should be a 5 second average? Do I need to know NP during a ride?
https://www.strava.com/activities/1627230303/overview
This segment, when I got the KOM Strava estimated 335W, today, I was 12 seconds down with a measured power of 328W.
Seems the estimation is surprisingly close.
On a side note, I stuck my round chainrings on with the Quarq. They feel lumpy as hell. Not sure they're better or worse than oval rings but my pedaling 'feels' so much smoother on oval rings... Once I have a decent amount of data I will be switching them over for sure.
L/R balance. How close to 50/50 is acceptable? Strava showing 48/52, Garmin connect showing 45/55. The Garmin result sounds concerning.
What do I want to display on the Wahoo? Currently got current W and NP... Feel like the current W fluctuates too much, maybe that should be a 5 second average? Do I need to know NP during a ride?
https://www.strava.com/activities/1627230303/overview
This segment, when I got the KOM Strava estimated 335W, today, I was 12 seconds down with a measured power of 328W.
Seems the estimation is surprisingly close.
On a side note, I stuck my round chainrings on with the Quarq. They feel lumpy as hell. Not sure they're better or worse than oval rings but my pedaling 'feels' so much smoother on oval rings... Once I have a decent amount of data I will be switching them over for sure.
Last edited: