Finding it impossible to cool my 8700k and 1080Ti driving me insane.

Yuzanaki

Yuzanaki

Yuzanaki

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29 Dec 2013
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Hey, having major issues with my system, I bought a pre-binned 8700k at 5ghz a few months back and had it running in my old semi-custom loop with XSPC parts and along side my 1080ti in the same loop my CPU Ran warm but not to the point where it hit thermal throttle or shut down, I've yet since built a stronger watercooling loop (First time doing hardline) and I'm majorly struggling with temps, I'm getting 84 degrees at stock settings on my 8700k whilst gaming but my GPU always remains below 44-45. I cannot seem to cool my 8700k down using the new build, list of parts I use are:

CPU Block: EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Block - Black.
GPU Block: Aorus Waterforce.
Radiators: EK Tri-rad x2 with 6x ML120 Corsair RBG Fans.
Pump: EK-XTop Revo D5 PWM RBG.
Reservior: X3 150 Black.
Case NZXT H700i (Not sure if relevant, air flow seems an issue?)
Picture of the nightmare that is my PC: https://imgur.com/a/fik6ZEm

It's driving me insane prior to switching from soft tubing to hardline I was able to run it at 5ghz albeit quite hot but still I could run it, now I can't run it stock without hitting thermal throttle and soon I expect it would have shut down if I hadn't stopped gaming.

I've reversed the fans so they suck instead of blow, same problem, I've reapplied thermal paste twice, I used the one that came with the EK CPU Block. The moment I run the OC and launch OCCT and HW monitor I see it jump instantly to 86 go back down to 78s and hover around 84 before I decide that theres no way it's going to drop anytime soon. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this one out, I've gone from a single dual rad to 2x Tri-rads with 6x ML120s at 100% load it's still crashed on stock settings.

I've checked all the rookie mistakes like leaving any plastic films on the CPU etc the only difference to my old PC is better parts and running my fans through the Smart CAM on the case.

Flow is Res>Pump>Radiator>Radiator>GPU>CPU>Res> although from my understanding regardless of loop order by a fractional margin I can't see it making a huge impact order wise.
 
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sounds like the CPU's thermal interface needs to be reapplied. I would suggest buying some thermal grizzly conductonaut or equivalents (Coolaboratory liquid metal/ultra), redeliding it and applying the new conductonaut between the IHS and the core. Then you can pop it back in and see how it goes. Note that between the IHS and the waterblock you should use conventional thermal pastes instead, something like Kryonaut/MX4/Arctic Silver 5/NT-H1/etc.
 
I did figure that it may need de-lididing as I’ve thrown everything I can at it to cool it, however it’s only 3 months old and I’ve never de-lidded a CPU before so I’d rather avoid that route if possible, though I don’t see that it’s leaving me much option.
 
I’ve had heating issues with it since I’ve had it I got it usable to a degree but even still, perhaps an RMA is in order, it’s only 3 months old ish.
 
if you bought it pre-binned from OCUK, I think you should ask them to re-deliding and reapplying the thermal paste. Doing it yourself may void the warranty.
 
Before you start de/relidding, if you didn't have heat problems before the loop upgrade then there's other things to check first.

- is your TIM application correct on the waterblock?
- is the waterblock seted correctly?
- is there an air lock in the CPU block?

I'd cover these off first.
 
LePhuronn said:
Before you start de/relidding, if you didn't have heat problems before the loop upgrade then there's other things to check first.

- is your TIM application correct on the waterblock?
- is the waterblock seted correctly?
- is there an air lock in the CPU block?

I'd cover these off first.
Click to expand...

I’d second this, potentially check the block - are you using the correct in/out and if you took it apart is the jet plate in right?

Poor flow in that block could be why it’s heating up, the GPUs tend to run cool regardless as less heat when not under full load.
 
Re-applied thermal paste twice, first time was a little next time was a little more generous, both yielding in over heating temperatures, took the CPU block apart the everything inside was fine, the jet plate was stuck to the CPU fins due to the water obviously so not sure if it was or wasn't however I realigned it and put the cpu block back together, same results.

waterflow at the moment seems to be good due to needing to use the inlet on the top of the reservoir I can't fill it up 100% so I can physically see the flow of water, there seems to be a little bit of air in there that I can't remove I've tilted, shook, turned upside down opened my drain port a tiny amount, unscrewed the top of the resi cap no matter what I do this tiny bit of air just wont remove. However this is after rebuilding and before hand it had no air in it and was still an issue. My GPU is feeding the inlet and my reservoir is receiving the outlet from the CPU block, it's also tightened as far as the screw tops will allow.

Pictures of my loop order and the air bubble I can't seem to budge: https://imgur.com/a/cGagqrg hard to see if at all possible the air bubble but it's marked, down in the corner feeding the pump.
 
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What were the cpu temps before? If you have re-jiggered everything then one thing that may have ended up different is the air cooling getting to your motherboard sinks, which lead to reducing your margins. I can't open your rig pics from there so can't see if there is anything obvious, but that is one possible change that could have happened, what with changing rads/fans and so forth.
 
I figured it out, it's the bloody case! The restrictive air flow was causing my radiators to not remove enough heat and the water was staying hot inthe radiators, removed both the top panel and front panel, running at 5ghz on OCCT and furmark for maximum heat and the maximum temps I've had is 82 degrees running 25minutes of testing. Average temps are low 70s late 60s.

Kind of annoying as I had to mod the case to fit however it's a huge relief cause I've been wracking my brains all week, so to anyone thinking about the h700i be aware, this case has restrictive air flow with the panels on. At least it's fixed!
 
Yuzanaki said:
I figured it out, it's the bloody case! The restrictive air flow was causing my radiators to not remove enough heat and the water was staying hot inthe radiators, removed both the top panel and front panel, running at 5ghz on OCCT and furmark for maximum heat and the maximum temps I've had is 82 degrees running 25minutes of testing. Average temps are low 70s late 60s.

Kind of annoying as I had to mod the case to fit however it's a huge relief cause I've been wracking my brains all week, so to anyone thinking about the h700i be aware, this case has restrictive air flow with the panels on. At least it's fixed!
Click to expand...

I can see the pic you got all your fans exhaust flip the front Rad fans backward to create an intake so all your fan blow clean air in one direction that should help with temps
 
michael27 said:
I can see the pic you got all your fans exhaust flip the front Rad fans backward to create an intake so all your fan blow clean air in one direction that should help with temps
Click to expand...
Tried that also tried having them all suck into the case and use the exhaust to get rid of the air (advised by OC on the phone) the temps seemed to be quite worse off, with the front and top panel off with them exhausting at 5ghz under 100% load and furmark to heat my gpu my max temp was 82 degrees, so I'm just looking into modding the case to have grills on it :)
 
It can be a bit of a problem when you have a GPU in the loop as that makes a big difference when its under load. One of the reasons i went back to an AIO as my CPU runs cooler than it did on a custom loop.

Did sound like a flow, airflow issue. Quite a few nzxt cases are restrictive. My phanteks is. Have had to have the top cnc machined out as they wouldn't sell me the new airflow panels. Front I've had to step away 5mm so its flush with the rest of the case.

To get rid of any bubbles i use my trusty method and stick a pipe in the top of the res and suck :p then hold the end of the pipe for a minute or two to keep the negative pressure, helps pull the air out. Although doesn't look possible on your loop with single port in the top?
 
Yeah it's definitely an air flow issue, I've had the panels off for a few days now and haven't had anything really above 74 degrees under heavy gaming, OCCT and Furmark max was like 79-80 ish which is perfectly acceptable.

This NZXT is definitely an issue, I've been in touch with a company regarding cutting out a large portion of the panels and putting in a grill, they informed me I'm not the first to ask about this and they're fully aware of the issue I've got.

Bubbles haven't been an issue since changing my PSU, I think my old one was pretty much on its last legs as the pressure was relatively low, now with this Seasonic Focus Plat 650 and the pressure seems to move anything stuck out the way. I had heard bad things about the CXM series of PSU but hadn't realised they were that bad, had nothing but issues with it after a year of use.
 
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