i 100 corsair running hot at about 90+C when gaming overwatch

OneEyeWilly

OneEyeWilly

OneEyeWilly

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I have a Intel Core i7-5820K 6-Core 3.3GHz that im cooling with the i 100 corsair that Iv never had problems with that i have noticed so far...

But today I went afk for 15 - 20 mins to see i had a cpu overheat crash been using a program to view the CPU temp and its about 65 C idle and 90+ when playing games (this is with side panel off and a external fan inside) The logo also turns red whilst playing games.

Is there anything i can do? Tried cleaning out the case but still seems to cause the problem.
Has the cooler died? the pump died? Fans still spin and i cant hear anything unusual.

I dont want to run long periods at high temps
 
Sounds silly but I had this issue with mine for awhile and then took the fans off and saw the amount of dust and build up within the radiator, so much dust had built up between all the radiator fins it was crazy, used some nice compressed air stood back and my god.... was like a sand storm....
 
If idle temperature is 65C something is seriously amiss.
Did you try tubes/radiator if those were hot?
If those are barely warm then pump might have failed.
Knowing if temperatures rose suddenly or over time would help bracketing cause.




Glacius said:
Sounds silly but I had this issue with mine for awhile and then took the fans off and saw the amount of dust and build up within the radiator, so much dust had built up between all the radiator fins it was crazy, used some nice compressed air stood back and my god.... was like a sand storm....
Click to expand...
Would be better to have vacuum cleaner nearby to catch that flying dust instead of just blowing it back into PC/circulation.
Unless doing that dusting outside.
Of course nozzle has to be kept away from circuit boards/electronics to avoid static electricity risk.
(vacuum cleaner is strong ESD generator)
 
EsaT said:
Would be better to have vacuum cleaner nearby to catch that flying dust instead of just blowing it back into PC/circulation.
Unless doing that dusting outside.
Of course nozzle has to be kept away from circuit boards/electronics to avoid static electricity risk.
(vacuum cleaner is strong ESD generator)
Click to expand...

Luckily the top of my case does for the most part come off, so after taking that off and the dust filters I managed to blow the dust out from the inside of the case so the chucks where coming out the top where I have my trusty Henry hoover :P Just never realised even with dust filters it can get quite bad although to be honest it had been a couple of years so not all that surprised.
 
Good answers and looks like you may have solved the problem for now. Be aware these CLCs have weak pump and after a year or two of hard work often fail. If you are not overclocking they tend to last a year or so longer.

As EsaT said, 65c idle indicates there may be a more serious problem than a good cleaning will solve. Often the movement of unit while cleaning with get pump working for a little while, but if your idle temps are still high or go up in a few days, a week or two the problem is most likely the pump. That is when one line is hot and other is cool as well as radiator not getting hot .. most likely meaning pump is not moving coolant like it should. This is often caused by low coolant level which then wears out the pump, and if that is the case.

If it is indeed failing it's time to look at getting a new cooler and if you don't want to have similar problems in another couple of years it would be best to go with a good air cooler and make sure case is setup so it flow the needed cool air to cooler. A good air cooler costs less than a CLC and will last basically forever .. longer than you will ever use it (I'm still using Thermalright Ultima 90 that I got in 2007). If something does go wrong other than needing cleaned it can only be the fan/s in which case cooler still cools at low load or any fan can be rubber-banded onto cooler until suitable replacement is in hand .. meaning no down time. When CLC fails there is no CPU cooling at all so system is down until cooler is replaced. ;)
 
Iv just rinsed the whole radiator out by flushing it with water from a hosepipe and my oh my did a lot of gunk come out. (properly drying and keeping everything dry and protected I reinstalled the radiator and allowed it to cool for an hour before plugging it all back in. All seems to be working fine boot up normally, look at temps.... Aggrhhh!

as I type this running at 50 - 53 c idle with nothing else open.

Yes one pipe gets a lot warmer to the touch than the other one which feels like it could be turned off. I do feel tiny slight vibrations in the pipe so i assume its still pumping... at least a small amount.

About to boot up Overwatch so I can get running temp - now bear in mind the settings in game is set to low and im running:

Intel Core i7-5820K 6-Core 3.3GHz
Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 EVGA SSC ACX 2.0 4GB Edition
16GB DDR4 2400MHz RAM
Win 10 64bit
Samsung SSD 850 PRO Series 512GB + HD204UI 2TB
Asus Sabertooth X99 TUF Motherboard
Zalman ZM750-XG Goldrock PSU
Corsair I-100 CPU cooling
Cooler Master Cosmos II

In game temps are...

10 mins of game running... 85 - 90 c

Im guessing the pump has failed and I need to buy another @£120 :(
 
so if i buy another I-100 Is it easy to fit myself?

last one I bought was 08/07/2015 and i didn't fit it. I'm just wondering if a novice can take up this work order.
 
OneEyeWilly said:
Iv just rinsed the whole radiator out by flushing it with water from a hosepipe and my oh my did a lot of gunk come out. (properly drying and keeping everything dry and protected I reinstalled the radiator and allowed it to cool for an hour before plugging it all back in. All seems to be working fine boot up normally, look at temps.... Aggrhhh!

as I type this running at 50 - 53 c idle with nothing else open.

Yes one pipe gets a lot warmer to the touch than the other one which feels like it could be turned off. I do feel tiny slight vibrations in the pipe so i assume its still pumping... at least a small amount.

About to boot up Overwatch so I can get running temp - now bear in mind the settings in game is set to low and im running:

Intel Core i7-5820K 6-Core 3.3GHz
Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 EVGA SSC ACX 2.0 4GB Edition
16GB DDR4 2400MHz RAM
Win 10 64bit
Samsung SSD 850 PRO Series 512GB + HD204UI 2TB
Asus Sabertooth X99 TUF Motherboard
Zalman ZM750-XG Goldrock PSU
Corsair I-100 CPU cooling
Cooler Master Cosmos II

In game temps are...

10 mins of game running... 85 - 90 c

Im guessing the pump has failed and I need to buy another @£120 :(
Click to expand...
Definitely sounds like pump is going out / low coolant level.

I would go the warranty route with them sending you a replacement before you send yours in. That should get you up and running quick without having to pay out for replacement and ending up with a 2nd CLC when they replace your dead one. They will probably want your CC number so they have something in case itn't not a warranty replacement but they shouldn't charge you anything .. at least not until the determine it s defective.

That or get a good big air cooler and sell the replacement CLC when your defective one replaced for most of what good air will cost you. Thing is H100i is definitely not any better than a good air cooler and really not as good at same noise levels. Some say H100i is a little cooler than H100 but fans seem to be the reason .. there does not seem to be any definitive proof of one being significantly better than the other .. for every test showing one better there's another showing the opposite.

Silver Arrow SB-E, Silver Arrow SB-E Extreme vs H100
I7 [email protected] Temperature in Delta
Cooler . . . . . . . . . Delta . RPM . RPM . dB(A) . Fans
H100 . . . . . . . . . . 41c . . 2500. . . . . . . 55 . . . . 2x
SA SB-E. . . . . . . . 42c . . 1000 & 1300. 38 . . . . TY-150 & TY-141
SA SB-E Extreme . 34c . . 2500 . . . . . . 56 . . . . 2x TY-143
H100 is 1c cooler than Silver Arrow SB-e but makes more than 3 times the noise doing it
Siver Arrow SB-E Extreme is 7c cooler with fans making similar amount of noise as H100 does.
PC-Cooling video review above data came from:
 
OneEyeWilly said:
Iv just rinsed the whole radiator out by flushing it with water from a hosepipe and my oh my did a lot of gunk come out.

as I type this running at 50 - 53 c idle with nothing else open.

Yes one pipe gets a lot warmer to the touch than the other one which feels like it could be turned off. I do feel tiny slight vibrations in the pipe so i assume its still pumping... at least a small amount.
Click to expand...
That gunk is likely various oxidizing products and possible galvanic corrosion stuff.
CPU block would be good to flush also.
Because that temperature is still definitely way too high for idle.

And pump is obviously running at some speed/there's some flow of coolant.
If there's no coolant flow both pipes would have same temperature.
Now coolant flow moves heat toward radiator, while return pipe is colder because of containing liquid cooled by radiator.
But for some reason that coolant flow isn't enough and/or block has lost its ability to transfer heat to it.
 
I assumed that gunk was what he washed out of fins, not that he disassembled his H100 (assume I 100 is supposed to be H100).

Indeed, good coolant flow rate makes it hard to feel a difference in temp .. but CLC pumps even when running perfect only more about 40 L/h, about the same as healthy human's urine flow rate is. :D Custom loops use pumps like D5 (probably the most popular which has a flow rate of 1500 L/h.
 
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