Ryzen Master bricked my motherboard.

[VladTheSlav]

I used Ryzen Master to test an overclock with a Ryzen 5 1400 and a Hyper 212 Evo, i got it up to 3.8ghz with stock voltage running cinebench each time with no problems.
However, I raised the voltage to 1.35V and 4GHz, ran cinebench and it crashed. No problem, just pull CMOS and reboot.
This is where my problems start. For 3 days, no amount of CMOS resetting or leaving everything unplugged from my motherboard (Asrock AB350M) can stop me from getting 4 beeps (short ones) on boot but no POST. With no RAM inserted, it will continue to boot loop. 4 beeps for my board means system timer failure which I believe is related to CMOS. I have no spare RAM to test the problem with, but I've tested the other slot and it gives the same issue.

Things I've tried:
1. CMOS reset with and without jumper
2. Breadboarding the motherboard
3. Leaving it unplugged and in reset mode overnight
4. Rebuilding the entire rig from head to toe
5. Using a different graphics card
6. Using a different PSU

Rest of my system specs:
Ryzen 5 1400
Asrock AB350M
Powercolor R9 280X
8GB Kingston 2133MHz single DIMM
Hyper 212 Evo
CX750M
Corsair Carbide 300R Windowed
An SSD, 2 HDDs and a DVD-ROM drive
An LED strip
5 case fans, using pwm splitters

 

[Panos]

I used Ryzen Master to test an overclock with a Ryzen 5 1400 and a Hyper 212 Evo, i got it up to 3.8ghz with stock voltage running cinebench each time with no problems.
However, I raised the voltage to 1.35V and 4GHz, ran cinebench and it crashed. No problem, just pull CMOS and reboot.
This is where my problems start. For 3 days, no amount of CMOS resetting or leaving everything unplugged from my motherboard (Asrock AB350M) can stop me from getting 4 beeps (short ones) on boot but no POST. With no RAM inserted, it will continue to boot loop. 4 beeps for my board means system timer failure which I believe is related to CMOS. I have no spare RAM to test the problem with, but I've tested the other slot and it gives the same issue.

Things I've tried:
1. CMOS reset with and without jumper
2. Breadboarding the motherboard
3. Leaving it unplugged and in reset mode overnight
4. Rebuilding the entire rig from head to toe
5. Using a different graphics card
6. Using a different PSU

Rest of my system specs:
Ryzen 5 1400
Asrock AB350M
Powercolor R9 280X
8GB Kingston 2133MHz single DIMM
Hyper 212 Evo
CX750M
Corsair Carbide 300R Windowed
An SSD, 2 HDDs and a DVD-ROM drive
An LED strip
5 case fans, using pwm splitters

Ryzen Master didn't brick the board. Excess power on overclocking and some burned capacitor due to heat could have done it.
Also the motherboard has a jumper to reset the bios. Make sure is connected to the correct place. If so, put the jumper to the reset and try to boot the system. It probably give you some blue light. Turn off, switch back the jumper to normal. Then try to boot again.

Also you can try to unplug the power and replace the battery. If system doesn't boot RMA the motherboard.

Btw What you mean by "No problem, just pull CMOS and reboot." and "Breadboarding the motherboard"?

 

[VladTheSlav]

I've tried your suggestion already and it has not helped me unfortunately.

By breadboarding I meant I stripped the motherboard out of the case and tested it with only the bare essentials plugged in. Also pull CMOS was a reference to turning the system off and pulling out the CMOS battery to reset it.

 

[Panos]

I've tried your suggestion already and it has not helped me unfortunately.

By breadboarding I meant I stripped the motherboard out of the case and tested it with only the bare essentials plugged in. Also pull CMOS was a reference to turning the system off and pulling out the CMOS battery to reset it.

Contact Asrock and tell them the board stopped working just like that. No further details

 

[Vince]

I've tried your suggestion already and it has not helped me unfortunately.

By breadboarding I meant I stripped the motherboard out of the case and tested it with only the bare essentials plugged in. Also pull CMOS was a reference to turning the system off and pulling out the CMOS battery to reset it.

Pulling the battery? Why not use the supplied jumper and actually do it properly? From the manual: