Protecting garden shed?

Oh the "damage" is a dried out sap channel, I would fill with exterior PVA, not to make it flush but to fill the deep grooves, then just treat as normal.

The heart wood is the hardest, in reality all wood used for any purpose should be heartwood, the outer layer shouldn't be used, the sapwood
sapwood - the soft outer layers of recently formed wood between the heartwood and the bark, containing the functioning vascular tissue.
 
As far as I remember the shed was pretreated . I've just bought this 5L tub, only £5. It's a copy of the £6 Ronseal one coat shed and fence protector, upload image online

Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Oh the "damage" is a dried out sap channel, I would fill with exterior PVA, not to make it flush but to fill the deep grooves, then just treat as normal.
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Nice. What is PVA and which would you recommend? How do I apply it, and will it need sanding?
 
Does it say you can use it on planed timber? Just says rough sawn on the front. It'll still work, but might not last very long on smooth planed timber. I guess you can't com0plain for £5 though if you need to do it once a year.
 
None of the stuff we've ever bought (in the last decade) has ever lasted more than (up to) 1 year. All the "5 year" claims are complete guff from our experience. Have to paint every year or it just reverts back to bare wood.

As a kid my Dad used to paint our outbuilding (old farm cottage) with proper-job Creosote, and the stuff treated with that stayed treated. These days it's probably got about 20 banned-in-the-EU ingredients tho :p

Wonder what they use to treat telegraph poles...
 
Mark A said:
Does it say you can use it on planed timber? Just says rough sawn on the front. It'll still work, but might not last very long on smooth planed timber. I guess you can't com0plain for £5 though if you need to do it once a year.
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I believe it does say not on smooth timber and that it may come off. I bought it with that in mind but then I'm not sure if my shed is regarded as smooth or rough sawn. I just looked at the picture of the fence on the tub and figured it looked about the same as the finish of the wood on my shed.
I probably bought the wrong stuff. I wonder if I can return it tomorrow.
 
Any external PVA wood glue will do the trick. You only need a small pot, just run the glue down the gap and smooth with your finger.
You will probably want to do it a couple of times, its quite runny so if you put too much on it will run out. It will dry clear/almost clear depending how thick it is.

Some treatment is better than no treatment, cant hurt to use that this year then go better next

Honestly I wouldnt look past the screwfix stuff which is solvent based, or go to woodfinishesdirect, they are very good

You get what you pay for with this sort of thing.
 
FoxEye said:
None of the stuff we've ever bought (in the last decade) has ever lasted more than (up to) 1 year. All the "5 year" claims are complete guff from our experience. Have to paint every year or it just reverts back to bare wood.
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If you buy that cheap £5 stuff then yeah, the claims are crap. You have to spend a lot more on a quality product now.
 
FoxEye said:
As a kid my Dad used to paint our outbuilding (old farm cottage) with proper-job Creosote, and the stuff treated with that stayed treated. These days it's probably got about 20 banned-in-the-EU ingredients tho :p

Wonder what they use to treat telegraph poles...
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Yeah real coal tar creosote was great. A couple of coats of that and water would run off for years. Also what i like about creosote is that it soaks in and doesn't create a surface layer that can flake off. So its just a case of slapping some more on once it starts to fade.

I believe you can still buy the real stuff if you're a farmer or 'professional' and telegraph poles probably still use it - https://www.creosotesales.co.uk/
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Any external PVA wood glue will do the trick. You only need a small pot, just run the glue down the gap and smooth with your finger.
You will probably want to do it a couple of times, its quite runny so if you put too much on it will run out. It will dry clear/almost clear depending how thick it is.

Some treatment is better than no treatment, cant hurt to use that this year then go better next

Honestly I wouldnt look past the screwfix stuff which is solvent based, or go to woodfinishesdirect, they are very good

You get what you pay for with this sort of thing.
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I'm going to return the cheapo tub I bought. Ok, I'm deciding out of these two, the No Nonsense wood treatment or the Ronseal Fencelife +. Ronseal is cheaper and can be used on smooth and rough sawn wood and looks to be closest to the colour I want. The No Nonsense stuff, I'm sure it's very good, but would it be much better for protection than the Ronseal?

https://www.diy.com/departments/ron...opaque-shed-fence-treatment-5l/1919534_BQ.prd

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-treatment-light-brown-5ltr/34702

For PVA glue either these should be ok right?

https://www.diy.com/departments/evo-stik-weatherproof-wood-adhesive-125ml/36301_BQ.prd

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+&+Sealants/d180/Wood+Adhesive+&+PVA/sd3198/Interior+&+Exterior+PVA+Wood+Glue/p22271
 
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Merlin5 said:
I'm going to return the cheapo tub I bought. Ok, I'm deciding out of these two, the No Nonsense wood treatment or the Ronseal Fencelife +. Ronseal is cheaper and can be used on smooth and rough sawn wood and looks to be closest to the colour I want. The No Nonsense stuff, I'm sure it's very good, but would it be much better for protection than the Ronseal?

https://www.diy.com/departments/ron...opaque-shed-fence-treatment-5l/1919534_BQ.prd

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-treatment-light-brown-5ltr/34702

For PVA glue this should be ok right?

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+&+Sealants/d180/Wood+Adhesive+&+PVA/sd3198/Interior+&+Exterior+PVA+Wood+Glue/p22271
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Yep that glue is fine.

So those are different things, look at the VOCs thats the key. The screwfix stuff I use at my allotment, even on relatively new wood it just soaks in, old old wood its gone in a flash. The low VOC type items sit more on the surface, they try to coat the surface in waxes in effect. Where as the high VOC takes the treatment down into the wood.

Honestly its all horses for courses on this. Its literally the more you spend the better.

Also take a look here, we bought our cabin treatment from them. A preserver and cabin treatment. They have a few articles on most key areas. Barretine was what we used. The first two coats of preserver went straight in, the cabin treatment is designed to go on the top, but you can clearly see it ha formed a layer, its tough though.

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/

3 main areas, stains, preservers, oils

Some are combined if you want.

I am old enough to remember creosote and even that didnt really last 5 years in the sort of weather we have. But because it soaked in it meant the wood was way better treated once the surface wore off.

HOnestly those treatments are semi meh. Note it says the colour will stand for 5 years, it doesnt mention that in regards to the protection ;)
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Yep that glue is fine.


Barretine was what we used. The first two coats of preserver went straight in, the cabin treatment is designed to go on the top, but you can clearly see it ha formed a layer, its tough though.
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How about this Barretine product then instead of the no nonsense? It costs slightly less too. I could buy both that and the glue at toolstation.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p48655
 
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Slight Hijack

I am wanting to paint our shed and have already got Cuprinol Garden Shades.

Our shed is quite large but over the summer it has really dried and I can't afford for the shed to break apart for another 5 years.

To try reclaim some life back into it, should I just paint 2 coats over it with the Cuprinol and that should protect it or should I first apply a preserver like the Clear Screwfix No Nonsense stuff recommended above?

I don't know if the shed was pretreated before I moved in.
 
Oxide™ said:
Slight Hijack

I am wanting to paint our shed and have already got Cuprinol Garden Shades.

Our shed is quite large but over the summer it has really dried and I can't afford for the shed to break apart for another 5 years.

To try reclaim some life back into it, should I just paint 2 coats over it with the Cuprinol and that should protect it or should I first apply a preserver like the Clear Screwfix No Nonsense stuff recommended above?

I don't know if the shed was pretreated before I moved in.
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They are normally pre treated, so I would just go to that, unless its clearly an expensive one then maybe spend more on it.

Is it starting to return to normal now the weather is a bit damper? Wood expands and contracts quite a lot due to weather. Treating them actually helps this as it helps to trap some moisture in, and prevent this escaping, or new getting in
 
All done. :)

20180918_143924.jpg




Now the hard part, rolling my sleeves up and actually bothering to do it, lol. I think we have some more dry sunny days this week though, so good a time as any.
 
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