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Liquid Metal is eating my GPU LOL!

fff ddesder theys
Please enlighten me to how it should be done


At 10:10 he mentions using nail polish to coat and protect the smd's from any Liquid Metal spill over. That's a good idea, Now I need to find away to buy some without getting funny looks down at the chemist. :D
 
fff ddesder theys


At 10:10 he mentions using nail polish to coat and protect the smd's from any Liquid Metal spill over. That's a good idea, Now I need to find away to buy some without getting funny looks down at the chemist. :D

Turn up in a Tutu then they won't be looking at you funny for buying nail polish.
 
fff ddesder theys


At 10:10 he mentions using nail polish to coat and protect the smd's from any Liquid Metal spill over. That's a good idea, Now I need to find away to buy some without getting funny looks down at the chemist. :D

Buy some from amazon then you won't look like a total gimp :p

i've used kapton tape on GPU's before and has worked well. And can be removed easily unlike nail polish. CPU's where you can tell its been delidded then i use nail varnish as its just easier to apply.
 
Buy some from amazon then you won't look like a total gimp :p

i've used kapton tape on GPU's before and has worked well. And can be removed easily unlike nail polish. CPU's where you can tell its been delidded then i use nail varnish as its just easier to apply.

Never thought of kapton tape good idea
 
Should use this stuff to cover all components around the area of application:
Ambersil transparent 400 ml Aerosol Conformal Coating

It is designed for the job, use it at work all the time when working on boards, stops swarf and little blobs of solder accidently shorting out tiny/fine pitch components.
 
What I find amusing - I've seen a fair few instances where people extol the merits of LM but persist in ignoring the application notes for regular paste - in my experience there has been little to no reason to use LM with normal air or water cooling if you apply a good paste properly. In more extreme cooling setups another matter.

I mean for instance - I'm using a moderately overclocked 4820K with quite a bit of extra voltage as it isn't a great clocker (does get high frequencies stable but needs a ton of voltage) all core boost to 4.4GHz (1.26v) with a passive Zalman FX70 - under normal use load temperatures don't go over 49C (a bit higher admittedly for Prime hah).

I continue to use Kryonaut for water-cooled application and have never seen a tangible benefit from using LM. Anyone who disagrees should try beating my FM graphics scores on ambient first. :p
 
What I find amusing - I've seen a fair few instances where people extol the merits of LM but persist in ignoring the application notes for regular paste - in my experience there has been little to no reason to use LM with normal air or water cooling if you apply a good paste properly. In more extreme cooling setups another matter.

I don't see value for anything other than replacing paste in Intel chips when overclocking to get rid of thermal throttling.

If you're not getting throttling you gain nothing at all.
 
Should use this stuff to cover all components around the area of application:
Ambersil transparent 400 ml Aerosol Conformal Coating

It is designed for the job, use it at work all the time when working on boards, stops swarf and little blobs of solder accidently shorting out tiny/fine pitch components.

Product Details
Acrylic Conformal Coating
Specially developed to protect printed circuit boards from the effects of environmental attack, protects against inorganic acid and caustic vapours.

Prevents electrical leakage and short circuits
Provides a quick drying and transparent, flexible protective coating
Operational temperature range of -40°C to +60°C (provides short term protection to 100°C)
Can also be used as extra insulation on coils and transformers
Touch dry in 20 minutes (at 20°C)
That looks borderline for the area around a GPU. What happens to it overtime, above 60°C?
 
That looks borderline for the area around a GPU. What happens to it overtime, above 60°C?

It'll probably crack and break down a bit. We use it a lot and our parts run at 125C or sometimes higher :/ I thought the same thing on reading the description on RS!!!

It is definitely more stable than nail varnish though, albeit probably a cousin by the smell.

Also saw mention of Kapton tape - now that stuff is the bees knees. If you can get away with just Kapton and no conformal coating, use it! We absolutely hammer it in prototype and production builds and it never breaks down.
 
Now enjoy your suggested products containing all sorts of makeup for a few weeks :p
Don't you worry, I've got Xmas all planned out now. :D

Also saw mention of Kapton tape - now that stuff is the bees knees. If you can get away with just Kapton and no conformal coating, use it! We absolutely hammer it in prototype and production builds and it never breaks down.

It's the first time I've ever heard of it, Another item to browse around for. :)
 
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