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2080ti 300A 120%+ cards

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

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Joined
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Hey guys I’m getting very close to pulling the pin on a 2080ti. I’ll be putting a full waterblock on it so that is a consideration as well. Trying to find out which cards have a 300A die and what the power limit is set at isn’t easy. Obviously I want to keep the cost as low as possible as these cards are outrageously expensive. Can anyone offer advice on a few cards that have a 300A die and a decent power limit but are reasonably priced? I’m thinking FE pcb cards will be easier to find a full waterblock for?
Cheers
 
According to their forums, the Gigabyte Gaming OCs are set to 122% with the latest BIOS. I don't know if that BIOS is applied to every new card purchased or if you'd have to flash it yourself.

Apparently, anything over stock clocks 1545Mhz should have an A chip. Whether or not that is true, I don't know, but it seems to be a widely-held belief.
 
Going to pay premium for A chips so getting as low a price as possible 2080ti don't belong in the same sentence . My EVGA OC Gaming Ultra is a 300A chip but consider it was €250ish dearer than the Gaming Black model . Micron memory aswell .
 
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-2080-ti.c3305

A significant number of watercooled blocks are made for only 2 or 3 kinds of cards:
Reference PCB's
Asus / EVGA
it usually comes down to who makes the first popular non-reference card. So, in 2019, it could change.
as for 2080ti waterblocks, Currently there's :
EK Vector RGB
Alphacool eisblock RGB
watercool.de's Heatkiller IV RGB
Phanteks Glacier RGB
Bitspower Lotan RGB
EVGA Hydro Copper
MSI's Sea Hawk EK X RGB
Gigabyte Aorus RGB (no details yet)
Corsair Hydro X (no details yet)
Thermaltake Pacific-V RGB
XSPC's Razor Neo RGB
Barrow RGB
Bykski N-RTX2080TI-X RGB
probably a few of these are rebrands of each other... I haven't actually looked properly. (The other challenge is getting a matching back-plate... which not all of them have, or need, or include.)
95% of the RGB, comes from an 8-10 LED strip along the base of the plexiglass near the PCIE slot, compatible with the typical addressable motherboard RGB plug (ASUS/MSI sync), etc.
The XSPC is unusual, in that it has tempered glass, which makes it... IMO, strategically obtuse, i.e. tempered glass would be quite heavy and hard to remove to clean or descale over time.
Reference, i.e. every manufacturer uses the exact spec for the reference, down to heights of components so they can share heatsink designs across multiple heatsink and their "overclocking" SKU's, i.e. Blower, dual fan, triple fan, RGB Dual, RGB triple, etc.
Down the line, they might change the reference spec, but not until they've sold a few units (sic), or they have a habit of making custom PCB's.
Which is why Inno3D, Zotac, Palit, PNY, GALAX, Gainward, Colorful and KFA (in no particular order) and the basic ASUS/EVGA/MSI/Gigabyte boards often are reference compatible and WB compatible, they have identical or similar parts because that's the spec.
ASUS and EVGA are usually the defacto "Premium boards", for less obvious reasons. i.e. they're the first to create custom PCB's and custom heatsinks.
Occasionally, and more recently, AIB's are making their own coolers, like EVGA and MSI for their Mid-Range and Premium cards, But it's also OEM's like Barrow and Bykski and EB that are making the waterblocks for larger OEMs.
Click to expand...
 
Colonel_Klinck said:
Thanks dude. My current 1080ti Amp has been great so might give Zotac a go again.
Click to expand...

Personally, I’d probably pick up a FE if I were going to watercool it though.

I got the Zotac triple fan so that I didn’t need to. That and the 5 year warranty. :)
 
HRL said:
Personally, I’d probably pick up a FE if I were going to watercool it though.

I got the Zotac triple fan so that I didn’t need to. That and the 5 year warranty. :)
Click to expand...

So it is basically the same FE card as the Amp with just a different cooler and a slightly higher OC as standard?
 
To some extent it's always going to be a question of silicon lottery. I had good luck with the Gigabyte Gaming OC. The F3 bios is 366W, which is high for a 2080Ti. As a bonus, it's the reference PCB so you could theoretically flash the Galax 380W bios on it.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-gaming-oc-11264mb-gddr6-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-1a0-gi.html

The cooler is decent but not amazing - there's a thread somewhere about the 'rattling' noise it can make under some spinup conditions. However, if you're going to waterblock it anyway that hardly matters.

My one is able to hit up to 2145mhz and generally settles around 2100 when power is available. It's still one of the higher 2080tis on our timespy thread here (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/time-spy-standard-dx-12-bench.18740536/) and was faster than my Titan RTX when the latter was at stock (the overclocked Titan pulls away).

YMMV but this would certainly give you a 300A chip at a decent price (£1100) with a great power limit (366W on official F3 vbios).
 
Maldoror said:
To some extent it's always going to be a question of silicon lottery. I had good luck with the Gigabyte Gaming OC. The F3 bios is 366W, which is high for a 2080Ti. As a bonus, it's the reference PCB so you could theoretically flash the Galax 380W bios on it.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-gaming-oc-11264mb-gddr6-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-1a0-gi.html

The cooler is decent but not amazing - there's a thread somewhere about the 'rattling' noise it can make under some spinup conditions. However, if you're going to waterblock it anyway that hardly matters.

My one is able to hit up to 2145mhz and generally settles around 2100 when power is available. It's still one of the higher 2080tis on our timespy thread here (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/time-spy-standard-dx-12-bench.18740536/) and was faster than my Titan RTX when the latter was at stock (the overclocked Titan pulls away).

YMMV but this would certainly give you a 300A chip at a decent price (£1100) with a great power limit (366W on official F3 vbios).
Click to expand...


Thanks dude, I'll check it out.
 
Colonel_Klinck said:
Hey guys I’m getting very close to pulling the pin on a 2080ti. I’ll be putting a full waterblock on it so that is a consideration as well. Trying to find out which cards have a 300A die and what the power limit is set at isn’t easy. Obviously I want to keep the cost as low as possible as these cards are outrageously expensive. Can anyone offer advice on a few cards that have a 300A die and a decent power limit but are reasonably priced? I’m thinking FE pcb cards will be easier to find a full waterblock for?
Cheers
Click to expand...


Just read this: https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1706276-official-nvidia-rtx-2080-ti-owner-s-club.html

They have a brilliant table on the first post it tells all the details of every card
 
andybird123 said:
Be aware that the gigabyte cards have a connector in the wrong place for some waterblocks, on mine i just removed the plastic part and bent the pins over - if it ever needs RMA the pins will bend back in to place and just slide the plastic part back over them.
Click to expand...

Cheers. I’m going to run it on air for a couple of weeks. Then WC it. If it’s going to break I’d hope it would be by then.
 
All installed and running a treat! Definite step up from my 1080ti. 3440 x 1440 and I'm cranked to the max in Insurgency and getting 100fps solid. Happy chappy.

IMG-9207.jpg
 
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