R7 2700X Watercooled QUESTION

[nicklog]

Hey boys and girls just a quick question I recently finished my new build about 20 days ago and was testing different things before I reach the conclusion that my cpu temperatures are not the one I should have (I believe) while I'm watercooling it with a custom loop from thermaltake with a 360 rad. My ryzen 7 2700x is working on stock speeds it's not stable on auto clock (3.7 to 4.1) but on idle the 38 to 45+ C I think is too much. While gaming I have reached about 65 maybe 70. I know it's not that much but still I expected less. I even tried manual clocking and use cinebench to compare and couldn't even reach 4.2 without crashing from temp (I know that watercooled 2700x could reach about 4.4 easy without even touching voltage)
So I'm back on stock settings again with same temps and I want some opinions should I be happy with my temps? I know there are more factors like room temp for example but still, with such watercooling I see ppl sitting on 10 to 20 or something in idle and I see mine on 45 I losing my mind

Thanks for your time
Sorry for my English and the long msg
Any advice welcome

Thermaltake level 20 gt case
1 360 Pacific thermaltake rad on top with it's own 3 x 120 fans
3 x120 fans in front intake
1 x140 fan back exhaust
Vertical rtx 2080ti

 

[LuckyBenski]

Firstly, no one has 10° idle temps unless their room is colder than 10°. I wouldn't want to game in that room

Check the basics: Is the CPU block mounted correctly, even pressure, good paste application? You didn't leave on the protective plastic under it? Unlikely as you aren't seeing 100° but still.

Is the pump running at a sensible speed? Doesn't need to be super high but avoid low speeds even at idle. A pump can be set to a middling speed and left alone really, no need to adjust with temps. Are radiator and case fans also a sensible speed? Try setting a minimum speed of say 500-750RPM even at idle conditions.

Do you have a way to check the water temperature? Maybe feel the air coming out of the radiator or even the radiator itself. If that is warm, then water is warm, so chips will be warm.

In your case configuration the graphics card is dumping all of its heat into the case air. Which is then being used to cool the radiator. So the 2080 Ti is producing 200+ watts of heat into the case. I expect temperatures inside your case are somewhat high. Try running everything for a while then opening the side panel and feeling the air and components inside there.

I think the real answer here is to add the graphics card to the loop, but investigating the issue is good. I'd be a little concerned if the chip is unstable when auto clocking as well.

 

[orbitalwalsh]

4.3ghz all core overclock on water is max normally

Line hits 60c on Anno and thats with a 45mm thick 360 rad, most of the heat is due to having to run HIGH voltage on a Non X 2700 to hit 4ghz all core and then RTX 2080 putting heat into the case and passing through the rad at the top

Ryzen 7's are actually hot chips when you overclock them !!! everything thinks they are cool but thats at default settings, TDP and heat quickly increase like intel when you OC all the cores

 

[nicklog]

Thanks for your replies guys and good morning .

LuckyBenski
cpu and block mounted correctly I've reinstalled 2 times in all these days.
Fans are working on 1400+ rpm at all times, all 6 of them on rad and front. I dont care for the noise anyway at least I want to get some decent performance.
One thing I dont know about is pump speed I have no idea if you can change it somehow it's a pacific pump/reservoir from thermaltake .

Water temperature yeah I think it's kind of high I odnt know how it is on other loops but when case is closed and I'm gaming for long time for example, I open the side panel and the radiator and pipes are hot
I know my GPU is one of the hottest in market do you think that alone causes the "problem"?
I'll try to mount it in normal position and have the side panel open to check again.

Orbitalwalsh
I dont care that much for overclock it was just a kind of test mostly for the temps. The default setting is pretty high anyway I mean there is no point for me trying to overclock it to 4.2, and more than that is going to burn my house up.
I was just expecting after all that work and money I gave on this build to handle a minor oc...but..

 

[Ross Thomson]

s working on stock speeds it's not stable on auto clock (3.7 to 4.1) but on idle the 38 to 45+ C I think is too much. While gaming I have reached about 65 maybe 70.

swap fans to push on the rad so its taking air from outside. What are your ambient temps? if you are on auto then your temps and frequency will spike up and down on ryzen. Is your pump working properly? do you have any air in the system.

 

[Distracted]

Wherever you have the rad, it would be better if that is your intake. This is because the gpu will quickly heat the air in the case so if you have your rad fans as exhaust then you are blowing heated air over the rad.
If you make the rad the intake you draw cool air in the case and over the rad and then exhaust the hot air through the other fans. The temp difference to the GPU from doing this will be minimal but the loop temp should see a big improvement.
This is mainly because you have an air cooled GPU, if the GPU was in the loop then the inside of the case wouldn't be nearly as hot so having the rad as exhaust wouldn't matter quite as much.

Other things to check are the voltage your CPU is getting and whether or not you can reduce that. But that 2080ti will be heating the case when gaming and the rad will be heatsoaked far quicker because of the temp of the exhaust air it is using.

Firstly, no one has 10° idle temps unless their room is colder than 10°. I wouldn't want to game in that room

I would give me back my winter weather.

As others have said, checking the pump is working and that everything is seated correctly is a good ide.

 

[chroniclard]

Currently watching football on second monitor and browsing on this monitor. 2700X temps fluctuate between 35 and 42 ish. 240 rad intake, 360 top exhaust. Ryzen doesn't seem to truly "idle" as such, temps jump around all over the place.

I dont think your temps are that far out, if at all.

 

[vapor matt]

I think you are running negative case pressure, should always try to have positive case pressure. your GFX card is dumping warm air into your case and being pulled through your top rad, so basically warming it not cooling it, if your case temp delta inside is 35c
and your water temp is 38c to 40c it will take a long time to cool with just a 5c delta between case and water temps.

I would switch top rad fans to pull and create positive case pressure and increase the delta between inside case temp and cooling air from room temp. also pump should be about 70% min.


when you run negative case pressure it turns your whole case into a vacuum so air has to enter through every little hole and vent in the case, this drags dirt and dust into the case like a vacuum cleaner, when you run positive case pressure
the air has to enter via filters in front of fans and excess air is forced out of the little nooks and cranys keeping the inside free from dust and fluff which after a time will help block the cooling of the gfx card.

Its easy to clean fan filters but much harder to clean a case and heat sinks free from dust and fluff.

 

[nicklog]

Thank you all for your answers, So i've recently changed some stuff after taking in consideration many replies and now i got radiator with 3x 120s in front of the pc as intake, 3x 120 on top, exhaust and 1 140 back exhaust , i cant really realise if i saw some difference maybe 1 to 2 degrees? Anyway its almost like nothing changed.
One thing im thinking about is the 3 fans i mounted on my rad are the ones that thermaltake gave me with the rad, and on bios monitoring i can see they reach 950 to 980 rpm at max speed. maybe something faster than that could make some difference? Also maybe is it the fault of the case? maybe its a hot case with not that much of airflow ?
But it doesnt make sence as since i turn on the pc after being off and cooled for hours, it instantly reaches these 45 degrees before i even log in windows (checked it from bios)
So it seems to me like its a problem on the water block

 

[Distracted]

I don't know what sort of temps Ryzen usually idles at but 45 degrees in bios seems very high. Have you confirmed that the pump is doing its job? Can you dismantle the block to check it? Are you positive that the block is making enough contact with the cpu? It could be sat on something next to the socket which is preventing you tightening it down enough.

 

[nicklog]

I know the contact is fine i'll double check again

 

[Unseul]

Is that 45C with the 10C that Ryzen adds automatically?

If you haven't seen much difference switching your rad to intake, switch it back. Yes, your CPU may be a little cooler, but everything else in the case will get hotter. The GPU, the VRMs etc etc. There's a lot more in your case that needs to stay cool than just your CPU, and your CPU was well within "safe" levels anyway.

 

[nicklog]

Is that 45C with the 10C that Ryzen adds automatically?

If you haven't seen much difference switching your rad to intake, switch it back. Yes, your CPU may be a little cooler, but everything else in the case will get hotter. The GPU, the VRMs etc etc. There's a lot more in your case that needs to stay cool than just your CPU, and your CPU was well within "safe" levels anyway.

Hello mate, to be honest I cant feel that the rad as a front intake brings too much heat inside and everything goes to the exhaust that works on full rpm all time, I believe I got the best results compared with my old ones on this setup now.
I even got the glass panels off from the front and top and I managed to reach 4.2ghz stable

 

[Distracted]

Hello mate, to be honest I cant feel that the rad as a front intake brings too much heat inside and everything goes to the exhaust that works on full rpm all time, I believe I got the best results compared with my old ones on this setup now.
I even got the glass panels off from the front and top and I managed to reach 4.2ghz stable

Leaving it as it is is almost certainly the best idea so long as you have plenty of airflow. When the air in the case is being exchanged for air from the outside fast enough (as it will be given your setup) the slight increase in temp from having the intake coming through a rad matters very little. On the other hand, forcing a rad to intake solely from the interior (and GPU exhaust) is going to impact the CPU a lot.
The key thing is that the airflow going through your case is exchanging the hot air for cool air quicker than the GPU (which will be the main space heater for you) can heat it. You've now got that covered. This same process will keep the RAM and VRMs cool.

Changing the fans may have a big impact if the ones you are using with the rad don't have great static pressure. I'm using be quiet! Silent wings and they are brilliant. I get more airflow with less noise vs what I was using previously. But if everything is working now and you are happy then don't spend more just for the sake of it.

 

[nicklog]

Leaving it as it is is almost certainly the best idea so long as you have plenty of airflow. When the air in the case is being exchanged for air from the outside fast enough (as it will be given your setup) the slight increase in temp from having the intake coming through a rad matters very little. On the other hand, forcing a rad to intake solely from the interior (and GPU exhaust) is going to impact the CPU a lot.
The key thing is that the airflow going through your case is exchanging the hot air for cool air quicker than the GPU (which will be the main space heater for you) can heat it. You've now got that covered. This same process will keep the RAM and VRMs cool.

Changing the fans may have a big impact if the ones you are using with the rad don't have great static pressure. I'm using be quiet! Silent wings and they are brilliant. I get more airflow with less noise vs what I was using previously. But if everything is working now and you are happy then don't spend more just for the sake of it.

Thanks for your reply as well mate.
Yeah it looks a bit better for me as well last thing I checked today was the block if it sits fine and pasted it (once more) in the best way I could and now I'm flushing the system with distilled and I'll use a new coolant, mayhem pure h2o I think. I read everywhere it's one of the best .

 

[LuckyBenski]

Thanks for your reply as well mate.
Yeah it looks a bit better for me as well last thing I checked today was the block if it sits fine and pasted it (once more) in the best way I could and now I'm flushing the system with distilled and I'll use a new coolant, mayhem pure h2o I think. I read everywhere it's one of the best .

TBF Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O is still just water. Heavily filtered and deionised, but water by itself.

Then again, I've had bad experiences with clear fluids containing anticorrosives/biocides turning blue.

 

[nicklog]

TBF Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O is still just water. Heavily filtered and deionised, but water by itself.

Then again, I've had bad experiences with clear fluids containing anticorrosives/biocides turning blue.

Thanks for your reply
What does that mean? it's not an "all in one" coolant?
Do I have to mix it with something or can it be used like that?
After everything I read about it I'm pretty sure that ppl were talking about using it on it's own (?)

 

[Distracted]

Thanks for your reply
What does that mean? it's not an "all in one" coolant?
Do I have to mix it with something or can it be used like that?
After everything I read about it I'm pretty sure that ppl were talking about using it on it's own (?)

The mayhems pure h20 is pure water, no biocide or inhibitor has been added.

It is filtered so it is less likely to have growth or deposits and deionised so it is less likely to cause corrosion, but for long term use you would want to add biocide and inhibitor.

You can also add dye to it if you want to change the colour.

But ultimately it is just very pure water.

 

[nicklog]

The mayhems pure h20 is pure water, no biocide or inhibitor has been added.

It is filtered so it is less likely to have growth or deposits and deionised so it is less likely to cause corrosion, but for long term use you would want to add biocide and inhibitor.

You can also add dye to it if you want to change the colour.

But ultimately it is just very pure water.

So could I start using that and in a few days I'll buy biocise and inhibitor I saw the ones from mayhems and add it then?
Is it good cooling solution you believe? Regarding temps
And one more thing how much am I supposed to add from these 2 things in it? Just a couple drops of each one?
Thanks

 

[Distracted]

So could I start using that and in a few days I'll buy biocise and inhibitor I saw the ones from mayhems and add it then?
Is it good cooling solution you believe? Regarding temps
And one more thing how much am I supposed to add from these 2 things in it? Just a couple drops of each one?
Thanks

It is just pure water. It should be fine for using in your loop as coolant.

It is better than using tap water for sure, something I highly recommend you don't use. It is also better than using deionised water because it will have less particulates. I haven't used the Mayhems pure water but I have bought a large amount of pure water from another place and used that myself.

Yes you could use it and add biocide and inhibitor once you get them. The amount you will need to use will depend on how much fluid is in your loop. It will tell you on the bottles how much to add, usually just a little but the instructions will make it clear.