Road Cycling

[Deleted member 68110]

honestly, very few things offer better outright value than a Planet X

Thanks - that's the conclusion I'm coming to.

Sensible, but look for end of season sales now. Few bargains going around. I was eyeing up a px frame recently and went for a Felt in the end which was 1/3rd off at wiggle for full 105(bar the Crankset and proprietary stupid aero brake). I saw the frame I was eyeing up in person last week and it was definitely not as nice as the bike I got.

Thanks. I've got 105 on my old (first) road bike and it was a revelation, but I really fancy upgrading so Ultegra is calling!

What PX frame were you looking at and what's nicer about the Felt (which Felt BTW?)?

I am still looking but I've not found anything even that close to the PX in terms of bang-for-buck. I know a lot of people are pretty sniffy about PX, but they seem to do well in reviews.

 

[randomshenans]

Hmm it's a 2013/14 bike, with FSA crank and 100quid Shimano wheels as well as a 10 speed 105. Frame is nice though. If I got it, I'd change the wheels and upgrade the groupset to a more modern 105.

 

[AndyCr15]

Hmm it's a 2013/14 bike, with FSA crank and 100quid Shimano wheels as well as a 10 speed 105. Frame is nice though. If I got it, I'd change the wheels and upgrade the groupset to a more modern 105.

Unfortunately I don't know what a lot of that means, is that in reference to the Felt I posted? If so, thanks. Yes, I wondered about upgrading parts of it instead perhaps buying something new and expensive, but would £600 be a good price as a base to start from?

 

[kiteloopy]

Unfortunately I don't know what a lot of that means, is that in reference to the Felt I posted? If so, thanks. Yes, I wondered about upgrading parts of it instead perhaps buying something new and expensive, but would £600 be a good price as a base to start from?

IMO, I think 600 would still be too much.
A decent bike always starts with the frame. And I think that frame would be a good starting point (if it's your size and you are comfortable on it).
The actual cycling components (the moving parts + wheels) however are old, heavy and outdated. Will they work? Yes. But new components will give you a much more pleasant cycling experience.
I've given better components away for free but the move towards new kit is up to you - expect to pay about 300-400 for some new stuff.

 

[Saytan]

Hmm it's a 2013/14 bike, with FSA crank and 100quid Shimano wheels as well as a 10 speed 105. Frame is nice though. If I got it, I'd change the wheels and upgrade the groupset to a more modern 105.

wheel upgrade is worthwhile, groupset is not. The difference is tiny. Wear out the 10 speed then get a new 11.

 

[Roady]

^^^ and that's why you post in here! Most of us would be looking at components and general wear of them, as we wouldn't have direct experience of those frames. But an insight from someone who's ridden and worked on those is invaluable!

The Felt is no longer showing, so looking at the Scott I'd be questioning why it's had new wheels and why they chose very average Giant wheels. The SR1 are a 'sport' wheelset from their lower range endurance bikes. Bombproof and headvy. Cup & cone bearings (no bad thing on cheap wheels) but high spoke count and cheap, heavy hubs. A £100-150 set of Fulcrums/Prime/Campagnolo would be loads better. I'm betting they came off a new bike which replaced this one (not a bad thing as means low mileage)...

It has old 105 and old Ultegra so it's only 10 speed. Saddle looks like it needs replacing and Jonny is right about that seatpost. Closeup does look like it's never been moved. Thinking about it, the saddle has a weird angle as if someones been riding it nose down like that to drop the height a little as they can't get the seatpost down...!

designing flaws in from the start seems to be the in thing now.

i've half an eye on a planet x pro carbon evo disc for just this reason...

So you're buying an open mould frame with questionable provenance?

On that note...

I'm considering whether to upgrade (my Planet X London Road) and my current preference would be the Planet X Pro Carbon Evo Disc R8000 which I'd then upgrade with a £300ish replacement wheelset (maybe Hunts).

Is this a sensible way to spend £2k?

My wants list is really just discs, short seat stays (purely aesthetics), internal cable routing.

For £2k yes, it's probably the only way to get a carbon frame, R8000 and a quality wheelset. If those are your requirements.

Anyone wanting a Shimano 36/52 chainset to fit or put in spares box? Black 172.5mm version at least is £64 https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-105-r7000-road-chainset-52-36-EV336880

Great price! I've spent double that on bearings and BB's the last few months.

@Roady you just need a standard BB tool to tighten up that WheelsMfg BB, same as you’d use to install a normal HT2 cup. It’s the BB86 one that needs a specific tool IIRC.

Oh, I bought the wheelsmfg tool as I don't have the HT2 cup one anyway... Well may have one in a no-name/unbranded budget cycle toolkit from a PX deal...

What he said ^ same for a praxis one I did today. Hollow tech tool.

The Praxis one I bought for the Praxis M30 BB I previously had, is a different fitting to the wheelsmfg BB.

Thanks, it went great. Turns out I was fastest of the 50km riders by a good 7 minutes. I realise serious riders would be doing 100km or 150km, so next one perhaps 100km for me...

Good work. Great average considering your first!

 

[UTmaniac]

Any thoughts?

I think £600 is still too much.

Two years ago, I sold a 2006 Felt F5C as per https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/felt-f5c-review/ to a work colleague for £150, in very good nick for its age as my lower back went in 2008 and I stupidly held on to it hoping I would ride it again. But when I started my bike fitness quest in 2017, the low front end still wasn't entire comfy, plus I really wanted hydraulic disc brakes and wanted to fit wider tyres than 25mm. Guy stripped the parts off it to put on his Specialized, upgrading from 16- to 20- speed.

 

[Lethal`]

Anyone wanting a Shimano 36/52 chainset to fit or put in spares box? Black 172.5mm version at least is £64 https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-105-r7000-road-chainset-52-36-EV336880

This is still compatible with 5800/6800 shifters (and the 5800/6800 FDs) too right? I'd seen some anecdotes about a slightly different spacing but seems unlikely that makes it incompatible.

 

[UTmaniac]

This is still compatible with 5800/6800 shifters (and the 5800/6800 FDs) too right? I'd seen some anecdotes about a slightly different spacing but seems unlikely that makes it incompatible.

I've read reports that R7000 front derailleur is much easier to set up so there's no rub using more extreme gear combos, but I'm still on 5800. For the sake of £25ish, I will probably buy an R7000 front mech, as and when I replace the chainset.

 

[Saytan]

So you're buying an open mould frame with questionable provenance?

Happy to trust anything Brant Richards has given the nod to

 

[Deleted member 68110]

Has anyone ever used a stand like the Scorpion?

https://reviews.mtbr.com/review-scorpion-bike-stands

There's a few on the market, but I'm only interested if they can go in via the non-drive side.

The review above features a picture of just that...

... but I can't understand quite how that work.

My bike has a Sram Rival22 drive train, and the cranks have a massive opening on the drive side and a much smaller hole on the non-drive side. Every way I can imagine it working results in some rubbing.

 

[Lethal`]

I've read reports that R7000 front derailleur is much easier to set up so there's no rub using more extreme gear combos, but I'm still on 5800. For the sake of £25ish, I will probably buy an R7000 front mech, as and when I replace the chainset.

I've seen an R8000 and it has a barrel adjuster. Looks much nicer though I think I've generally been lucky with setting up the 6800 derailleur. I've not had major issues.

 

[Lethal`]

Has anyone ever used a stand like the Scorpion?

https://reviews.mtbr.com/review-scorpion-bike-stands

There's a few on the market, but I'm only interested if they can go in via the non-drive side.

The review above features a picture of just that...

... but I can't understand quite how that work.

My bike has a Sram Rival22 drive train, and the cranks have a massive opening on the drive side and a much smaller hole on the non-drive side. Every way I can imagine it working results in some rubbing.

Compatibility with all bikes will be more difficult. I have a hollow crankset but there are caps on each end so it's a no go. Also looks like it doesn't really elevate it off the ground much so you might end up kneeling to play with the bike anyway?

 

[Deleted member 68110]

Compatibility with all bikes will be more difficult. I have a hollow crankset but there are caps on each end so it's a no go. Also looks like it doesn't really elevate it off the ground much so you might end up kneeling to play with the bike anyway?

I was thinking about DIYing a bike stand along these lines:-

...But I don't like the idea of the fork mount being the only securing point. The Scorpion concept seems like it could be incorporated to make quite a secure set-up.

 

[Jonny ///M]

@Roady sorry to be confusing.

It was a BB30 converter that would work with PF30 frames too. I think the actual praxis bb for their cranks are different again.

 

[syke]

Thanks guys. Had a little test on a couple of bikes today to see about whether I want another sporty road bike or standard road bike or a more relaxed CX/Gravel. Think might opt on the CX/Gravel (much more comfortable on my lower back!) route so will keep an eye out for a decent deal. Do quite like a few of the bikes I've seen but ideally wanting if going 1x to get something above Apex 1 with hydraulic brakes if I can help it.

 

[AndyCr15]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I might still go for it at £600 (she seems unlikely to move lower at the moment) mainly because I trust it's history (and low mileage) which I wouldn't if I was buying second hand elsewhere.

Can anyone recommend some wheels, I think around the £500 mark? (Of course if £700 gets me MUCH better, I could stretch to that). As someone advised, I might wait on the groupset... again, unless there's something very good around £600?

Thanks!

 

[mrthingyx]

Urgh. Had my first chain drop between the small chain ring and the shiny white frame.

Weird because I never had the problem on my other TT bike.

 

[SoliD]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I might still go for it at £600 (she seems unlikely to move lower at the moment) mainly because I trust it's history (and low mileage) which I wouldn't if I was buying second hand elsewhere.

That is expensive. For comparison I just got a brand new Felt FR5 for £999. I sold the wheels which seemed semi decent (lightish and spun well) and put my Chinese clinchers on it. You'd be mad to spend 600 on that Felt and then another 500 on wheels.

Can anyone recommend some wheels, I think around the £500 mark? (Of course if £700 gets me MUCH better, I could stretch to that). As someone advised, I might wait on the groupset... again, unless there's something very good around £600?

Thanks!

 

[AndyCr15]

You'd be mad to spend 600 on that Felt and then another 500 on wheels.

Can I ask why? The frame is said to be good, but the wheels poor? I have had advice elsewhere it's not a bad price for what it is and in very good condition (barely used).