4G Broadband Router Options

gpuerrilla · 24 Jun 2020 at 08:49

That 4G router is good. Like the guys said, get them to put in proper coverage with the better hardware and pay the difference, there was no point in cheaping out on that part after you got the bandwidth on WAN sorted.

NM30 · 27 Jun 2020 at 07:39

I’ve been offered the Ubiquity AP AC LR or the Ubiquity AP AC PRO by the guys who installed my 4G broadband.

which one should I go for?

WJA96 · 27 Jun 2020 at 07:47

Of those 2, I’d probably go with the LR but can they not get you a FlexHD? LR should be ~£100, Pro ~£130 and FlexHD ~£160 so it’s more money but from the scenario you describe it’s the right tool for the job.

NM30 · 27 Jun 2020 at 07:54

WJA96 said:
Of those 2, I’d probably go with the LR but can they not get you a FlexHD? LR should be ~£100, Pro ~£130 and FlexHD ~£160 so it’s more money but from the scenario you describe it’s the right tool for the job.

those are the ones they offer, why would you go for the LR over the PRO?

WJA96 · 27 Jun 2020 at 09:23

The Pro has a 3x3 chipset. So if you have 100% 3x3 clients (and you don’t) then the whole lot will run at full speed - 450Mbps? The moment a 2x2 client attaches to the network the whole thing drops to 2x2 (300Mbps) and if you’re unlucky enough to have any 1x1 clients then you’re running at 150Mbps.

The LR has a 2x2 chipset (which is what most of your devices are, and any 3x3 or 4x4 clients can run at 2x2 as well. So you save £30 and you get the same speed.

And you probably spotted that the LR is sold as the Long Range Access Point. And that’s because it has a more sensitive receiving antenna so it can keep a connection with clients further away. The access point is always transmitting more than the client so the only way you can get better range is to listen more carefully for the client. That’s what the LR does. For less than the Pro.

And the reason I keep banging on about the FlexHD or it’s NanoHD ceiling mounted equivalent is that it has the listening antenna of the LR and it can talk to two 2x2 clients at the same time as well as 3x3 or 4x4 clients.

NM30 · 2 Jul 2020 at 21:48

im after some technical help...I bought the Ubiquiti AP AC Pro and on the Mikrotik access point it won’t power the Pro over PoE...can anyone help?

WJA96 · 2 Jul 2020 at 22:08

Yes. The PoE from the Mikrotik is 24V passive. I did say to get the LR. The LR can run 24V or 48V. You need the PoE injector from the box the AP-AC-Pro came in.

Too Tall · 2 Jul 2020 at 22:18

What speed do you get via a wired connection?

Also, what network are you using?

Band selection will make a massive difference to your available bandwidth.

Does the router provided allow you to select which band you're using?

NM30 · 2 Jul 2020 at 22:26

WJA96 said:
Yes. The PoE from the Mikrotik is 24V passive. I did say to get the LR. The LR can run 24V or 48V. You need the PoE injector from the box the AP-AC-Pro came in.

I plugged in an ethernet into the Mikrotik then the other end into the WLAN on the PoE injector then took another ethernet from the PoE on the injector to the Pro but it wouldn’t power up.

WJA96 · 3 Jul 2020 at 05:30

Which port on the Mikrotik? Port 5 is 24V passive PoE out so don’t plug it into that one.

Are you sure the AP isn’t firing up? Where are you running the controller? And the PoE injector you’re using does it have any lights flashing on it?

NM30 · 3 Jul 2020 at 07:28

I plugged into port 2 and it wasn’t firing up.

I know the injector works as I plugged it into the mains and it worked that way but I really want it coming on through PoE.

Any suggestions?

WJA96 · 3 Jul 2020 at 07:42

As I understand it you have a power injector going into an LHG outside that then powers the hAP AC Lite from its PoE pass-through port. Is that correct?

Mikrotik use only 24V Passive which won’t power the AP-AC-Pro. Sadly, it would have powered the AP-AC-LR. Never mind.

You have to use the 48V PoE injector from the box I’m afraid. There are plenty of 48 to 24 downwards converters but I’m not aware of any 24->48 upwards converters.

NM30 · 3 Jul 2020 at 07:53

ah really...I went for the Pro as I’d use it outdoors eventually.

what if I get a new router which supports it like the Ubiquiti security gateway router?

WJA96 · 3 Jul 2020 at 08:15

Nope. No PoE out. And don't put the AP-AC-Pro outdoors, it's not waterproof. In the UBNT blurb, there is a little asterisk next to where it says the AP-AC-Pro can be used externally and it's only for use in something like an open veranda where it can't get rained on.

The only external access points are the AP-AC-Mesh, AP-AC-Mesh Pro and UAP-FlexHD. You could buy a Unifi PoE switch and that would power everything. US-8-150W or US-16-150W Gen1 are the two that spring immediately to mind, but as Mikrotik support 18-54V you might get away with a US-8-60W although I've never actually tested that.

WJA96 · 3 Jul 2020 at 08:17

Could you send the AP-AC-Pro back and get an AP-AC-LR instead? That should work on Passive 24V PoE from port 5 on the Mikrotik.

NM30 · 3 Jul 2020 at 09:19

im building an outbuilding where the Pro will go so it will be covered from the weather.

my end plan is to run data cables throughout the house so next question, does the PoE network switch only provide just that or can I plug in standard data points for say Smart TV’s, Xbox into a PoE switch?

WJA96 · 3 Jul 2020 at 09:27

It will provide PoE power on as many ports as you pay for and generally PoE switches can automagically detect when PoE is required and turn it on. All ports work as standard Ethernet ports as well.

NM30 · 3 Jul 2020 at 12:28

WJA96 said:
It will provide PoE power on as many ports as you pay for and generally PoE switches can automagically detect when PoE is required and turn it on. All ports work as standard Ethernet ports as well.

awesome, im gonna get the 24 port version in that case.

you’ve been a brilliant help its much appreciated. thank you.

WJA96 · 3 Jul 2020 at 12:46

OK, Some things about the 24-port PoE switch.

1. there are 2 versions. Gen 1 and Gen 2.
2. Gen 1 has all the ports live for PoE and Gen 2 has only 16 of the 24 live for a PoE.
3. Gen 1 can power 24V Mikrotik equipment. Gen 2 is 48V only.
4. Gen 1 sounds live a vacuum cleaner unless you swap the fans out for 40mm Noctuas.

So unless you desperately need 24 ports. I’d get the Gen 1 16 port (US-16-150W). It’s a great switch. 24/48V power and all 16 ports live for PoE.

the-evaluator · 3 Jul 2020 at 14:25

WJA96 said:
3. Gen 1 can power 24V Mikrotik equipment. Gen 2 is 48V only.

There's different versions of the Gen1. I've got a US-24-AT-250W and it's 48v only.

It was a freebie from Ubiquiti so may have been a different version to the norm but it was a bit of a surprise when it arrived as I had to get an INS-3AF-I-G to power my older AP-AC-LR.