Advice/guidance for building new gaming rig

[Medic-one]

By the end of next week I should have all components to start building my new rig, but as it's about 8 years ago since I've put together my current pc I thought I'd better ask/check a few things as I don't want to mess it up.

I came on here a few weeks asking if it was worth upgrading my CPU or GPU but after listening to some advice I've decided to upgrade everything, including a new monitor, and I've now bought the following :

- Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE
- AMD RYZEN 7 3700X EIGHT CORE 4.4GHZ
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 (120mm) RGB
- Gigabyte GEFORCE RTX 2070 SUPER WINDFORCE OC
- Patriot Viper Steel 16GB (2x 8GB) 3600MHz DDR4 C17
- Corsair RM750x 750W
- WD BLUE SN550 250 GB NVME M.2
- WD BLUE SN550 1 TB NVME M.2
- Phanteks Neon Digital RGB LED Strip
- AOC CU34G2X/BK 3440X1440 VA 144HZ Curved gaming monitor.

I've also still got 2x 2TB SSD's that I'm keeping for in the new set up.

This should be a nice little upgrade from my current Intel Core i5 3570K, AMD Radeon HD 7900 and some old 24" 60hz Philips monitor set up...

The only thing I'm not changing is my case (Thermaltake Overseer RX-I), mainly because I still like the looks, but also because I failed to find anything I liked with a 5'25 bay for my blue ray player.

My current case is quite messy with loads of wires everywhere, partly because I've got this Lian-Li TR-5 fan controller and a multicard reader in there as well (don't like empty/unsed bays) and partly because I've not used any cable ties or anything.



I want the new set up to look neater so I've bought some cable ties, and a RGB LED strip to go somewhere instead the case as well.

I have put together my current set up from scratch, but that was 8 years ago, and I am a bit nervous about doing it again, especially after spending quite a bit on all components, so some guidance on where to start and what to do first would be great.

Obviously start with taking all current components out, and then giving the inside and outside of the case a good clean and making it dust free. And then start building...

Does this sound about right ?

1) Attach CPU cooler mounting frames to motherboard.
2) Screw motherboard into the case
3) Attach CPU and CPU cooler to motherboard

4) Click in the memory strips.

The 4 slots available are DDR4_A1 & DDR4_A2, and DDR4_B1 & DDR4_B2. Which ones should i go for again ?

5) Click in the 2x NVME M.2 SSD's (i want to use the 250GB for Windows 10)

There's an M2A socket, and M2B socket, I take it stick the one i want to use for my OS in slot A, which for some reason seems to have a 'thermal guard' over it then i need to unscrew and lift up first...

6) Click in the GPU into the PCIEX16 slot

7) Install the PSU

8) Connect up everything, stick the windows 10 cd in the blueray drive, and fire it all up ?

Am I right in saying it's best not to connect the 2x other sata drive (2 TB ones) at the beginning so there'll be less confusing on where to install windows 10 on, or will i just get a list of drives to chose from ?

And I'm not really sure what to do with all the RGB stuff (never heard of this before i started looking at upgrading i must admit), I've got a RGB CPU cooler, the GPU has 'something' RGB I believe, and then I've got that RGB light strip that I want to install. Do I all just click them in together somewhere on the mainboard or how does that work ?

Any tips/pointers, or common 'what not to do' very welcome!

 

[Medic-one]

And am I right in saying I read somewhere it's worth getting a 1.4dp display port cable to go from the RTX 2070 SUPER to my CU34G2X monitor as that one's better then the 1.2dp cable that comes with it ?

 

[Grimley]

By the end of next week I should have all components to start building my new rig, but as it's about 8 years ago since I've put together my current pc I thought I'd better ask/check a few things as I don't want to mess it up.
Any tips/pointers, or common 'what not to do' very welcome!

Yep
Do a part install outside the case. Install the cooler, ram & SSD's first. Ram goes in the A2 & B2 slots.
Connect the 24pin & the 8pin psu cables to the board. Do a test post by shorting the power switch pins on the board (page 21 of the manual) its easier to do this than doing what you said to do & then finding out it does not work. if it works then disconnect the PSU cables & do this next.

Once you know it works, install the partly installed PC into the case, install the psu, connect other bits & pieces up. Test boot again & if that works, cable tidy.

Put the W10 disc into the blu-ray drive. hit the F12 key to choose to boot from said drive. Might take a while to install the various MS updates depending on how old the W10 disc is.

The Phanteks ARGB LED strip is 5volts, plug that into the 5volt ARGB hear on the board.

According to the monitors product page the monitor does not support 1.4dp (I think thats support for HDR) its 1.2dp only, so the answer is no its not needed.

 

[Quartz]

And am I right in saying I read somewhere it's worth getting a 1.4dp display port cable to go from the RTX 2070 SUPER to my CU34G2X monitor as that one's better then the 1.2dp cable that comes with it ?

No. That monitor is good for 144 Hz with DP 1.2 and does not support DP 1.4. That said, a DP 1.4 cable will give better signal quality thanks to its higher bandwidth, so if you find yourself having problems at 144 Hz then it's worth a try.

1) Attach CPU cooler mounting frames to motherboard.
2) Screw motherboard into the case
3) Attach CPU and CPU cooler to motherboard

I like to mount the CPU cooler before putting the board in the PC. In some cases, like my FT05, it can help to attach the power cables too. (In the case of the FT05, it's the 8 pin CPU power cable.)

The 4 slots available are DDR4_A1 & DDR4_A2, and DDR4_B1 & DDR4_B2. Which ones should i go for again ?

Check the motherboard manual.

but also because I failed to find anything I liked with a 5'25 bay for my blue ray player.

Wow. Do you actually use it?

8) Connect up everything, stick the windows 10 cd in the blueray drive, and fire it all up ?

You might find installing off a USB key quicker and easier.

 

[Sparx]

Oh geez I still can't believe you're still gonna re-use that case - it's gonna be like polishing a turd haha. Do you really need that blu-ray drive?

But yeah, download the W10 installation tool and copy it to a USB stick.

Follow as Grimley explains and build as much as you can on the motherboard outside the case first. Except the GPU, do that last when everything is all done and the mobo is screwed into the case obviously lol.

 

[Medic-one]

Yep
Do a part install outside the case. Install the cooler, ram & SSD's first. Ram goes in the A2 & B2 slots.
Connect the 24pin & the 8pin psu cables to the board. Do a test post by shorting the power switch pins on the board (page 21 of the manual) its easier to do this than doing what you said to do & then finding out it does not work. if it works then disconnect the PSU cables & do this next.

Once you know it works, install the partly installed PC into the case, install the psu, connect other bits & pieces up. Test boot again & if that works, cable tidy.

Put the W10 disc into the blu-ray drive. hit the F12 key to choose to boot from said drive. Might take a while to install the various MS updates depending on how old the W10 disc is.

The Phanteks ARGB LED strip is 5volts, plug that into the 5volt ARGB hear on the board.

According to the monitors product page the monitor does not support 1.4dp (I think thats support for HDR) its 1.2dp only, so the answer is no its not needed.

Cheers, that's very helpful!

No. That monitor is good for 144 Hz with DP 1.2 and does not support DP 1.4. That said, a DP 1.4 cable will give better signal quality thanks to its higher bandwidth, so if you find yourself having problems at 144 Hz then it's worth a try.

When reading up on the monitor I read things like "It also features the latest connectivity with DisplayPort 1.4 and HDMI 2.0" and "3440 x 1440 @144Hz is supported via DP 1.4, whilst HDMI 2.0 is limited to 100Hz maximum" so I'll probably get one of those 1.4 cables if they're better I think.

Check the motherboard manual.

That says :




So am I right in saying it goes by either numbers or letters ? So put them in A1 and B1 (or A2 and B2), but not in A1 and A2 ?

Wow. Do you actually use it?

I burn a lot of music cd's as my car (old V8 Jag) doesn't support MP3's or bluetooth or anything, so I'm constantly burning music cd's (with like 18 - 19 songs on it)...

You might find installing off a USB key quicker and easier.

Good thinking, I'll try that instead I think!

 

[Medic-one]

Oh geez I still can't believe you're still gonna re-use that case - it's gonna be like polishing a turd haha. Do you really need that blu-ray drive?

But yeah, download the W10 installation tool and copy it to a USB stick.

Follow as Grimley explains and build as much as you can on the motherboard outside the case first. Except the GPU, do that last when everything is all done and the mobo is screwed into the case obviously lol.

You can't still make fun of my case, I blame you entirely for spending just over £ 1900, in the last 2 weeks buying all this stuff!

No only joking, you've been most helpful Sparx, thanks again for all your tips and advice on the different components.

 

[Sparx]

Blame yourself, you have a habit for being given the suitable nicer on the budget components... then you decided to up it a notch on every part haha

Btw do you don’t actually use the blu ray drive for blu rays? Just burning discs? You may as well get a new case and grab an external DVD drive they’re cheap as chips

 

[Medic-one]

Blame yourself, you have a habit for being given the suitable nicer on the budget components... then you decided to up it a notch on every part haha

Btw do you don’t actually use the blu ray drive for blu rays? Just burning discs? You may as well get a new case and grab an external DVD drive they’re cheap as chips

No, just cd's

I have been looking at cases but couldn't find anything I like looks wise (tower size, couple fans on the side/top) so am just gonna stick with this ancient beast I think...

 

[Quartz]

When reading up on the monitor I read things like "It also features the latest connectivity with DisplayPort 1.4 and HDMI 2.0" and "3440 x 1440 @144Hz is supported via DP 1.4, whilst HDMI 2.0 is limited to 100Hz maximum" so I'll probably get one of those 1.4 cables if they're better I think.

Then I must have been looking atthe wrong specification.

 

[Medic-one]

Follow as Grimley explains and build as much as you can on the motherboard outside the case first.

Quick questions about those NVME drives.

There's one just above the PCI 16x slot where the GPU is gonna go, with a little heatsink over it called M2A (which is the faster of the two i read somewhere), and there's one a bit further down (M2B).

Will it be ok installing my OS on the M2A one above the GPU or would it be better on the other one ? And I assume that heatsink goes back over the NVME drive once it's clicked in ?

Also, I'm reading various things about people having issue's whilst using both NVME slot and then being unable to use all the other SATA connectors.

Something about when you use the 2nd NVME slot it shares bandwith with something else, and that it deactivates some of the Sata ports...

Surely a board that advertises are having 2 x NVME slots and 6x Sata should have all of those available ?

I've got the 2 NVME SSD's, but also got that Sata blue ray player, and 2x SATA SSD and 3x SATA HD (yes i know, i have a lot of drives... but they are all in use) so I was kinda hoping to be able to use at 6 SATA ports, or won't that be possible ?

 

[mickyflinn]

Lots of motherboards will disable some of the sata ports for other drives to work, it usually written in the manual.

You may have to get an sata card.

 

[Medic-one]

Lots of motherboards will disable some of the sata ports for other drives to work, it usually written in the manual.

You may have to get an sata card.

I couldn't specifically find it in the manual, so hopefully there's no port sharing.

Didn't know there were such things as sata cards, but that seems like a good solution if it doesn't work, thanks for that!

 

[Medic-one]

Another question...

I've currently got my OS (Windows 8.1) installed on an SSD that's split into 2 partitions. I want to use this SSD just for games after the new Windows 10 install (which will be on a different drive).

Would it be best to not connect this drive whilst I install windows 10 on the new drive, and then afterwards connect this drive, and then format it and turn the 2 partitions into 1 again ?

What will happen when I boot if there's one drive with Windows 10 and this one with windows 8.1 goes back in it ? Do i need to do anything to make sure it knows which one to boot up from, or will it just load Windows 10 automatically anyway ?

 

[Sparx]

Usually if the system detects 2 drives with OS' it will boot whatever it defaulted to the first time - or it'll show you the Windows Boot Manager and ask which drive/OS you want to boot up.

But no harm in connecting up only your primary drive first, then put the rest in after. Then yeah just format it clean your old SSD as one partition if it's just a games drive.

 

[Medic-one]

Last bits arriving today, so hoping to build this tomorrow.

Once it's up and running, and I've checked in the BIOS that the memory is running at 3600Mhz (That is where I check that right?) would it still be advisable to update the BIOS, or do you only do that if there's problems ?

Oh and I want to give my keyboard (Logitech Y-UV90) a bit of a clean, do all keys normally just pull off as i seem to struggle removing any of them (probably to worried i break something), or is there a special tool to remove them ?

 

[EsaT]

There's one just above the PCI 16x slot where the GPU is gonna go, with a little heatsink over it called M2A (which is the faster of the two i read somewhere), and there's one a bit further down (M2B).

Will it be ok installing my OS on the M2A one above the GPU or would it be better on the other one ?

M.2 socket closer to CPU is connected directly to CPU and hence has little bit better latencies than other slots connected to chipset.
Not that it would really matter in normal home use.
You're anyway wasting one of very limited slots for no good space by modern standard... With tiny size also making drive slower in writes and especially random IO than bigger models.

Lots of motherboards will disable some of the sata ports for other drives to work, it usually written in the manual.

Only in platforms with inadequate IO capability.
Matisse Ryzen and X570 aren't such and have plenty of IO for everything without sharing.

 

[Medic-one]

- edited. Problem sorted.

 

[Medic-one]

So finally managed to get it all up and running, but I seem to have a problem with my memory (Patriot Viper Steel 16GB (2x 8GB) 3600MHz DDR4 C17).

In the BIOS at the top it says "Memory frequency 21.51 Mhz) and then under memory :

DDR4_A1 : N/A
DDRa_A2 : Unknown 8 GB 2133Mhz
DDRa_B1 : N/A
DDRa_B2 : Unknown 8 GB 2133Mhz

X.M.P. Disabled.

So I click enable XMP, and restart, and it the BIOS it nows shows up at : Memory Frequency 3605. Mhz at the top, but still like this under DRAM status :

DDR4_A1 : N/A
DDRa_A2 : Unknown 8 GB 2133Mhz
DDRa_B1 : N/A
DDRa_B2 : Unknown 8 GB 2133Mhz

Plus windows won't start, every time it crashes and gives me a blue screen with different error messages :

- ATTEMPTED_WRITE_READONLY_MEMORY

- Stopcode: SYSTEM SERVICE EXCEPTION

- BAD SYSTEM CONFIG INFO


Current BIOS is version F11

Any guidenance on how to fix this ?

 

[Sparx]

Try manually set the DRAM voltage to 1.35v in BIOS. Had this work a few times.