3 repairs, still not right.

Dangerous Dave said:
Sounds like oil hasn't been getting round the whole engine.
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I think this is the problem.

Cracked cylinder head. Water in the engine. Then into the turbo and everywhere else.

Thing is, they diagnosed it as a head gasket. So they said it was ok for small trips and the water needs to stay topped up.

So i carried a massive bottle about and made sure it was good. But in hindsight I should have parked it up.

So if the sump was full of water and oil was floating the bottom end will have no oil?

Just a logical thought. I'm not a expert as mentioned. I only know basics.
 
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I’m no expert but I suspect it depends on how much water you’re dealing with. Most engines will boil the water at operating temperature and get rid of it, but obviously if it’s a lot of water then it’ll likely do some damage before it gets a chance to evaporate.

The garage sounds like a bunch of clowns.
 
koooowweeee said:
I think this is the problem.

Cracked cylinder head. Water in the engine. Then into the turbo and everywhere else.
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Correct. Water would kill turbo quickly they rev very high. Now with water in oil its probably caused crank bearing and connecting rod wear so now its knocking. Probably got cam wear too now.
Best bet is full rebuild.
If it had cracked block they need to inspect the block again now since the repair may not be that good and its cracked again or needs new block.

Guaranteed fix would be to replace the cylinder block, crank and bearings, cylinder head, cams, turbo, oil pump, connecting rods and wrist pins possibly pistons too depending on conrod play.
But its not gonna be cheap, looking at around 200-300 quid.
 
Cyber-Mav said:
Correct. Water would kill turbo quickly they rev very high. Now with water in oil its probably caused crank bearing and connecting rod wear so now its knocking. Probably got cam wear too now.
Best bet is full rebuild.
If it had cracked block they need to inspect the block again now since the repair may not be that good and its cracked again or needs new block.

Guaranteed fix would be to replace the cylinder block, crank and bearings, cylinder head, cams, turbo, oil pump, connecting rods and wrist pins possibly pistons too depending on conrod play.
But its not gonna be cheap, looking at around 200-300 quid.
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Did you miss a zero off that price?

Still waiting on the owner to find me. So I don't know what the plan is just yet.
 
i reckon your right at least a zero missing maybe another option would be a salvage engine, maybe out of a vehicle with rear damage, low mileage complete then run it see how you feel after a couple of months and if still not sure get rid..i know what its like when a vehicle lets you down and you start to lose confidence.
im not saying they will but the garage would most likely try to quote you for a recon or rebuild stating that the cracked head could have started doing the damage before they got involved, especially with the last owner contributing to the first bill, so if they do maybe worth offering them a deal where you supply the engine and they supply the labour?

just a suggestion basically its down to how much your confidence has been shaken in the garage, in fairness water contamination is fairly easy to define especially as i would have thought they would have changed the oil and filter when they did the head.
 
Cyber-Mav said:
No zeroes missing. Can get second hand engines cheap because they are very common across the vag range.
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ok understand that , was why i suggested a salvage option , but in fairness the way you worded it , it read like buying all the parts and having them built up into a engine not buying a secondhand one .
unless i read it wrong but im guessing op didnt either

Guaranteed fix would be to replace the cylinder block, crank and bearings, cylinder head, cams, turbo, oil pump, connecting rods and wrist pins possibly pistons too depending on conrod play.
But its not gonna be cheap, looking at around 200-300 quid.
 
May be oppurtune time to do some upgrades too. Forged pistons, dual valve springs, titanium valves, bigger turbo, crank scraper, baffled sump, port polishing, upgraded injectors, lightened flywheel, ceramic coated headers, fmic, standalone management haltek is recommended, combo atmospheric dump and recirculation valve. And a few other bits and bobs.
Will be good for 250bhp. Can even get diesels revving over 9k rpm.
But thats gonna cost 8-900 quid so ya need to think how much you like the car.
 
gc123 said:
i reckon your right at least a zero missing maybe another option would be a salvage engine, maybe out of a vehicle with rear damage, low mileage complete then run it see how you feel after a couple of months and if still not sure get rid..i know what its like when a vehicle lets you down and you start to lose confidence.
im not saying they will but the garage would most likely try to quote you for a recon or rebuild stating that the cracked head could have started doing the damage before they got involved, especially with the last owner contributing to the first bill, so if they do maybe worth offering them a deal where you supply the engine and they supply the labour?

just a suggestion basically its down to how much your confidence has been shaken in the garage, in fairness water contamination is fairly easy to define especially as i would have thought they would have changed the oil and filter when they did the head.
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Everything you wrote is what I've been thinking about. Hopefully I'll find out today what the script is with it.

Looking on eBay I've see a bare engine. Exact match for £650

Im not sure if I can just stick any engine in from the same year/model? This engine I've seen is the 170bhp model the same as mine.
 
koooowweeee said:
Everything you wrote is what I've been thinking about. Hopefully I'll find out today what the script is with it.

Looking on eBay I've see a bare engine. Exact match for £650

Im not sure if I can just stick any engine in from the same year/model? This engine I've seen is the 170bhp model the same as mine.
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Just make sure it is the same engine code, bits and pieces can always be transferred over from your engine if you get one out of a totally different model which has the same engine code.
 
Acme said:
Just make sure it is the same engine code, bits and pieces can always be transferred over from your engine if you get one out of a totally different model which has the same engine code.
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Yeah I spoke to them on the phone. He said I'll just need to put my turbo, ECU, injections etc on and will be fine as long as the codes match.

Thing is there saying it had 97k on the clock and mine had done half that.
 
Cyber-Mav said:
Look at it this way your engine only lasted half as long as the 97k one.
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Yeah that's true.

Spoke to them yesterday. Didn't really get much of an update.

They said they need to pull the full engine out and see what is cause the turbo to keep going and why it's knocking.

They said if it's something they have done then they will fix it, but if it's not then I'll have to pay.

Why you ask about cost they just keep saying we're unsure. Asked them about replacing the engine after taking mine out and cost, but again they don't know and will get back to me.

Think is, of I don't let them do the work I'll have to pay for it all again.
 
I would be saying anything they find must be documented in a report, which will be passed onto another garage for verification and will be asking an independent mechanic to give a second opinion.

Ar the very least, g them up a bit.
 
worrying one really, your damned if you do or damned if you dont.
on one hand your authorising them to carry on with the engine removal to find out what is wrong , but if you dont they cant find the fault. you have to decide whether to cut and run or keep paying. i would want a estimate for the work to remove and a running total. they can give you these figures its surely not the first engine they have removed.

your choices are limited once the engine is out as far as removing it from the garage, at the moment unless i missed something the turbo is off so still reasonably complete, so i cant see why they cant just give you a estimate to fit a replacement engine. either that or tell them the car will have to be inspected by a third party before any work carries on.

im not sure if the aa or rac still offer this service they used to but im sure someone will know on here.

be careful you could be being taken for a very long expensive ride.
 
Tinders said:
Theres a few here aswell, but they are all 2.0 diesels with a bodykit lol.
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Could be that. Never heard them. I've always been in my van at the time.

Many years ago my mate had a 1.6 escort with a full body kit and all the rally stickers one.

He said it was great on fuel :D
 
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