Mazda 6 mps owners
- Thread starter shuel
- Start date
The right person will be through Versatune or COBB Accessport based in the US. Freektune, DramaTuned and some others.
There are no recommended UK tuners anymore for the MPS platform and a generic mapping session is not recommended.
Are you already remapped? Having just a forged engine and uprated HPFP internals is quite rare. Usually the car has had exhaust/induction/turbo mods that require tuning before going forged.
There are no recommended UK tuners anymore for the MPS platform and a generic mapping session is not recommended.
Are you already remapped? Having just a forged engine and uprated HPFP internals is quite rare. Usually the car has had exhaust/induction/turbo mods that require tuning before going forged.
I bought the car standard and shortly after the engine blew and needed a rebuild. That's the reason it's stock. Only recently I got the hpfp done and a huge difference in the car, I find it much more responsive.
Thanks for the heads up with the US tuners and got my eyes on freektune. Don't want mega power just a little more extra torque and bhp.
Only car I like at the moment as all other cars I see are very generic. The 6 mps is rare as well as enough space for my family.
I am not surprised with the lack of 6 mps owners, very temperamental car and costly to fix. I've taken the leap, just praying no other extra huge costs hits me any time soon
Associate
- Joined
- 23 Oct 2013
- Posts
- 1,253
I had a 6mps for a couple years ~ 7 years ago and it was awful at attracting rust then, let alone what they're like now... best of luck m8.
The car itself was great, a complete sleeper of a Scooby alternative. Almost as practical as any other saloon, but the rear cross-bracing get in the way... If you remove the boot trim behind the seats you can work the seat-catches to lower the rear seats and get some longer bits and bobs in the boot (if you didn't know). I think I covered the sharp edges of the cross-bracing with pipe-lagging and cable ties...
Remaps - Justin (J-Tune) was the ONLY reputable UK tuner for the mps block. Other places, even those with amazing reputation for other Mazda engines (e.g. BBR) had a number of reported engine pops (ZZBs - Zoom Zoom Boom), so the community really only trusted Justine this side of the pond - there's a decent LONG post about reliable tuners on the MPSOC forum (well, there was, might still be there, so it's worth a check...). If you have Cobb or Versatune you can remotely road tune and send logs (but you'll also need to hit licence-losing speeds...) - I seem to remember Freektune and Purple Drank being recommended as alternatives when J shut up shop.
Without trying to sound bad, the 6mps was an ace car when new(ish), but like old MX5s, it sorely lacking any decent anti-rust protection, so it was a complete minefield used and 5 years old, let alone now when they're 13-15 years old... I seem to remember it was an experiment between Ford and Mazda and only sold for 18 months, so they never got a chance to work the creases out. There's a mix of random FOMOCO parts in there (I believe the rear drive shafts are even from Volvo), so getting replacement parts, especially for the rear hubs/drive were a nightmare - when I had problems I found the Mazda parts system even listed standard 6 parts for it wrongly (rear ABS sensors ring a bell). So parts were listed wrongly or weren't common - and I guess those from breakers are now a rusty mess too...
The car is also delicate... Flooring it from lowish revs in 5th or 6th is the usual cause of engine ZZB (why people don't change down to accelerate, who knows...) and the rear diff area is pretty poor - the diff mounts are chocolate and need upgrading if you're planning to launch the car much (and, if the car's 13-15 years old, I'm guessing it's been launched a few times, so check them)... The diff itself can't cope with wheels that are a different diameter (it can overheat and fail) - I seem to remember that people wince if there's as little as 2mm difference in tread front to back - the manual even mentions that you need to change all 4 tyres together (so, you NEED to make sure that all 4 tyres are exactly the same and always bought together, and rotated front to back if there's noticeable wear anywhere - if you're buying one and have mismatched tyres, then walk away...). The diff bolts are also chocolate, as I remember they regularly snapped when people changed the diff mount - and that was on 5 year old cars - hate to think how many diffs have some sheared bolts in them now... The turbos and their seals also failed surprisingly quickly...
I'm honestly not wanting to be negative. I have a massive love-hate thing with the car. I loved driving it, but it cost me an absolute fortune to keep it on the road and I never really trusted it on any long trip, as I just expected something to break...
The car itself was great, a complete sleeper of a Scooby alternative. Almost as practical as any other saloon, but the rear cross-bracing get in the way... If you remove the boot trim behind the seats you can work the seat-catches to lower the rear seats and get some longer bits and bobs in the boot (if you didn't know). I think I covered the sharp edges of the cross-bracing with pipe-lagging and cable ties...
Remaps - Justin (J-Tune) was the ONLY reputable UK tuner for the mps block. Other places, even those with amazing reputation for other Mazda engines (e.g. BBR) had a number of reported engine pops (ZZBs - Zoom Zoom Boom), so the community really only trusted Justine this side of the pond - there's a decent LONG post about reliable tuners on the MPSOC forum (well, there was, might still be there, so it's worth a check...). If you have Cobb or Versatune you can remotely road tune and send logs (but you'll also need to hit licence-losing speeds...) - I seem to remember Freektune and Purple Drank being recommended as alternatives when J shut up shop.
Without trying to sound bad, the 6mps was an ace car when new(ish), but like old MX5s, it sorely lacking any decent anti-rust protection, so it was a complete minefield used and 5 years old, let alone now when they're 13-15 years old... I seem to remember it was an experiment between Ford and Mazda and only sold for 18 months, so they never got a chance to work the creases out. There's a mix of random FOMOCO parts in there (I believe the rear drive shafts are even from Volvo), so getting replacement parts, especially for the rear hubs/drive were a nightmare - when I had problems I found the Mazda parts system even listed standard 6 parts for it wrongly (rear ABS sensors ring a bell). So parts were listed wrongly or weren't common - and I guess those from breakers are now a rusty mess too...
The car is also delicate... Flooring it from lowish revs in 5th or 6th is the usual cause of engine ZZB (why people don't change down to accelerate, who knows...) and the rear diff area is pretty poor - the diff mounts are chocolate and need upgrading if you're planning to launch the car much (and, if the car's 13-15 years old, I'm guessing it's been launched a few times, so check them)... The diff itself can't cope with wheels that are a different diameter (it can overheat and fail) - I seem to remember that people wince if there's as little as 2mm difference in tread front to back - the manual even mentions that you need to change all 4 tyres together (so, you NEED to make sure that all 4 tyres are exactly the same and always bought together, and rotated front to back if there's noticeable wear anywhere - if you're buying one and have mismatched tyres, then walk away...). The diff bolts are also chocolate, as I remember they regularly snapped when people changed the diff mount - and that was on 5 year old cars - hate to think how many diffs have some sheared bolts in them now... The turbos and their seals also failed surprisingly quickly...
I'm honestly not wanting to be negative. I have a massive love-hate thing with the car. I loved driving it, but it cost me an absolute fortune to keep it on the road and I never really trusted it on any long trip, as I just expected something to break...
I know this might sound like a dumb question, but if it's not tuned then how will changing the hpfp make a difference? I remember J telling me not to bother with the HPFP until I'm hitting 300-320ish bhp, as the stock is fine til then (the HPFP on the mk2 3MPS needed changing asap tho). So, if you've seen an improvement with just a HPFP then was the old one bad? Could it have lead to the engine breaking previously (just wondering if you were getting lean afr)? Sure it's stock and not tuned?
I have been very lucky so far.
No rust on body or under the car.
Agree it is a scooby/evo alternative but with some cons.
J-tune has stopped working which is a bummer but oh well and finding parts is not too bad as there is a mps breakers who has loads of spare parts.
I didn't think the hpfp would make a difference but to me personally feel much more response on the acceleration pedal.
I am surprised j telling you to leave oem fuel pump, my mps mechanic said change that regardless what power you are running.
Don't get me wrong, had my issue with the car which was when engine blew however its forged and the remainder of the parts seem strong as advised by my mechanic.
So far so good and apparently these mps are worth more money when selling them for parts than as a car... Crazy times
No rust on body or under the car.
Agree it is a scooby/evo alternative but with some cons.
J-tune has stopped working which is a bummer but oh well and finding parts is not too bad as there is a mps breakers who has loads of spare parts.
I didn't think the hpfp would make a difference but to me personally feel much more response on the acceleration pedal.
I am surprised j telling you to leave oem fuel pump, my mps mechanic said change that regardless what power you are running.
Don't get me wrong, had my issue with the car which was when engine blew however its forged and the remainder of the parts seem strong as advised by my mechanic.
So far so good and apparently these mps are worth more money when selling them for parts than as a car... Crazy times
That's the same with most older cars before they become classic/rare as far as i know!
Owning rare car has its pros and cons. Pro as I have one however bad because its going to cost me a lot for parts in the future
Ooohhh.... Feel your pain. Consider repairing? Or scrap it as it is worth more.
Honestly I thought the same. Don't want to jinx myself, I've owned a Toyota and mazda, both good and rust free.
I bet money I start getting rust and other issues now
I fancy a z4 or cayman next, so itll rust until I upgrade lol
Two very good choices there. Probably will go for cayman myself
Never owned a porsche so will be a good experience.
Associate
- Joined
- 12 Sep 2020
- Posts
- 1
New to the site, but I also have a 6 MPS, tahte need a timing chain replacement. Is there a good JDM garage in the midlands I should contact?
Associate
- Joined
- 23 Oct 2013
- Posts
- 1,253
Try CJ Prerformance, I know he's on the MPS owners group and has done a lot with them - https://www.cjperformance.co.uk/
- Joined
- 14 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 17,572
- Location
- Newcastle U/T
Dave hastie at ambleside garage has to be the most trusted mechanic in the UK to work on mps.
Means you get to spend some Time in the lakes too.
The drive down to the lakes in the mps from Newcastle was thoroughly enjoyable haha.
Really do miss my 6mps best vmcar I've ever owned despite its thirst lmao (thing on last working it out I was at around 18mpg)
I message the chap I sold mine to evey now and again seeing if he fancies selling, no bites as yet haha
As for rust, where rear arches meet the bumper was typically worst. Now I don't want to be the bearer of bad new but take of ya rear wheel and take of the spats/arch lined and check ha rear chassis rails. A friend left this too long and on checking could pretty much see through to the front of the car
Means you get to spend some Time in the lakes too.
The drive down to the lakes in the mps from Newcastle was thoroughly enjoyable haha.
Really do miss my 6mps best vmcar I've ever owned despite its thirst lmao (thing on last working it out I was at around 18mpg)
I message the chap I sold mine to evey now and again seeing if he fancies selling, no bites as yet haha
As for rust, where rear arches meet the bumper was typically worst. Now I don't want to be the bearer of bad new but take of ya rear wheel and take of the spats/arch lined and check ha rear chassis rails. A friend left this too long and on checking could pretty much see through to the front of the car
Associate
- Joined
- 23 Oct 2013
- Posts
- 1,253
I was going to say Dave in Ambleside (Youngs motors, I think it's called), but he walked away from the MPS owners group ages ago. I used him a couple times and took my mountain bike up there to cycle about while he was working his magic, nice area.
Saying that, business is business, so he's unlikely to turn away someone asking. I think he was sick with lots of people badgering him and being treated like crap - I seem to remember him mentioning that people were getting parts posted to him, without his permission, for future jobs and even having to deal with custom charges, etc.
Saying that, business is business, so he's unlikely to turn away someone asking. I think he was sick with lots of people badgering him and being treated like crap - I seem to remember him mentioning that people were getting parts posted to him, without his permission, for future jobs and even having to deal with custom charges, etc.
Last edited:
- Joined
- 14 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 17,572
- Location
- Newcastle U/T
Aye people were extracting the urine such a shame
Another vote for Charlie at CJ Performance. I've not used him yet, but have spoken to him in length on the phone reference a future forged build. He was extremely helpful.
He can probably do timing chains in his sleep now.
Hey up people.... Just a post for some advice. Have a cst4 installed on 6 and it's maxed out 23psi. So wanted to reduce the length of the wastegate arm for more psi. That is proving difficult for an amateur like me.
So the questions is:
1) pay for someone to take turbo out reduce the length and reinstall?
2) invest in bigger turbo, which I love to do but money is tight
3) just accept it as is
Thanks is advance
So the questions is:
1) pay for someone to take turbo out reduce the length and reinstall?
2) invest in bigger turbo, which I love to do but money is tight
3) just accept it as is
Thanks is advance