Painting over patched plaster?
- Thread starter jsmoke
- Start date
Sounds like you haven't filled it properly, sand back the area so the plaster is exposed and smooth out with Gyproc Easifiller Finish Filler and something like a 6inch joint or tape knife to feather to a smooth finish. You'll probably want to fill / feather off double size of the patch and use mesh tape so the hole doesn't crack in time.
Sand with a 320 grit sandpaper, and maybe do one more fill lightly over it if there are obviously blemishes and sand again. Don't forget to seal the plaster with watered down paint, advise on ratios will be on the tub
Sand with a 320 grit sandpaper, and maybe do one more fill lightly over it if there are obviously blemishes and sand again. Don't forget to seal the plaster with watered down paint, advise on ratios will be on the tub
Ages, maybe 2 or more weeks. It's sanded flush but it's still shows as a dark patch under all those layers of Matt. I think i need a stronger paint?
Whenever I re-paint after plaster I just use polyfilla base coat - or if you want the thinner version, use a water down paint mix on the plaster. Probably two layers and then two layers of paint on the top. Don't think of paint solving any problems with what's underneath. 9 times out of 10, it will actually highlight those problems.
1. prep I normally build the crack back from scratch block work using a bonding plaster, then switch to fine over the top. I'll use a watered down PVC to stop it from sucking the moisture out of the plaster before it's chemically reacted properly. Let it dry slowly so that it doesn't crack (it may need some wetting).
2. sanding is vital - so that it's completely flush and with a spirit level it shows that there's no bumps across the patch. Skimp now and the paint will look bumpy.
3. prime it - either using watered down paint (it gets sucked in) or use a basecoat plaster like the polyfilla stuff. I'll then sand it fine and clean up.
4. then paint.
I've tried barrier paint rather than polyfilla base coat before - thinner and takes more layers as pp111 has said. In total four or 5 coats with drying time between.
1. prep I normally build the crack back from scratch block work using a bonding plaster, then switch to fine over the top. I'll use a watered down PVC to stop it from sucking the moisture out of the plaster before it's chemically reacted properly. Let it dry slowly so that it doesn't crack (it may need some wetting).
2. sanding is vital - so that it's completely flush and with a spirit level it shows that there's no bumps across the patch. Skimp now and the paint will look bumpy.
3. prime it - either using watered down paint (it gets sucked in) or use a basecoat plaster like the polyfilla stuff. I'll then sand it fine and clean up.
4. then paint.
I've tried barrier paint rather than polyfilla base coat before - thinner and takes more layers as pp111 has said. In total four or 5 coats with drying time between.
So you need to get right colour of plaster basically, the stuff I used dried quite dark hence can still see dark patch through paint.
Soldato
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You dont, but that makes it easier
When using filler I normally apply 2-3 thin coats of basic emulsion before I cover with 2 coats (possibly 3) when doing the main painting session
Its also quite important on what you are using to cover it, brushes will leave a more variable depth surface than a good roller
The paint itself matters as well, cheap paints will cover poorly, expensive paints may cover well, I say may as some expensive ones are just as bad as cheap ones
Primer is good if your using a fairly thin emulsion as it helps to prevent the emulsion sinking in
When using filler I normally apply 2-3 thin coats of basic emulsion before I cover with 2 coats (possibly 3) when doing the main painting session
Its also quite important on what you are using to cover it, brushes will leave a more variable depth surface than a good roller
The paint itself matters as well, cheap paints will cover poorly, expensive paints may cover well, I say may as some expensive ones are just as bad as cheap ones
Primer is good if your using a fairly thin emulsion as it helps to prevent the emulsion sinking in
I always use this now. I recently filled in two holes in my ceiling where I had some electrical work done. It dries pretty much white though so didn't take much to cover it with white paint (2 light brushes and 1 roller with the rest of the room).