Please have a look at my setup and advise

I still persist that you should get a thicker rad but like others have said try for some better fans as the fans you have currently are not optimal for radiators. The big gaping gaps will lose a lot of pressure while not forming a decent seal over the radiator, you won't be pulling as much air through the radiator as you'd think.

To give you an idea on what i did for better if not optimal temps:

My EK X3M's are set to around 60% to maintain 48c or lower for the gpu and roughly the same for the cpu. It's a relatively quiet system and its sat right next to me on my desk.

Yc8LzYT.jpg
 
You know what, just looked at a site called Extreem Rig and did a review of the PE 360 rad, rated it average, whats a con to me is the rad is quoted at 38mm thick however the core is only 21.5mm thick I did think the core did not look that thick. Bit of a miss representation if you ask me
 
Jay85 said:
I still persist that you should get a thicker rad but like others have said try for some better fans as the fans you have currently are not optimal for radiators. The big gaping gaps will lose a lot of pressure while not forming a decent seal over the radiator, you won't be pulling as much air through the radiator as you'd think.

To give you an idea on what i did for better if not optimal temps:

My EK X3M's are set to around 60% to maintain 48c or lower for the gpu and roughly the same for the cpu. It's a relatively quiet system and its sat right next to me on my desk.

Yc8LzYT.jpg
Click to expand...
I remember your system now from the images.

what rads are you using
 
Petrolhead said:
I remember your system now from the images.

what rads are you using
Click to expand...
My bottom rad is a Corsair XR7 55mm radiator which is made by Hardware labs and based off their GTS/GTR series so performs similarly well. I was surprised to see 20 degree drop in temps!

It's a proper thick boi!
 
Jay85 said:
My bottom rad is a Corsair XR7 55mm radiator which is made by Hardware labs and based off their GTS/GTR series so performs similarly well. I was surprised to see 20 degree drop in temps!

It's a proper thick boi!
Click to expand...
Ok this looks like a good option and 5mm thiner than the EK XE 360 which although is 60mm thick the core is actually 48mm. Ok the Corsair is abit more expensive.

so do i keep my PE along with the Corsair or replace that as well. God this waterlooping is both expensive and confusing but interesting
 
 
Petrolhead said:
So this is my shopping list

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £293.34 (includes shipping: £10.50)
​
Click to expand...
Just an FYI the Vardar fans come with splitters so you can daisy chain the rgb together and run it off one header, so you don't need a splitter. They're also 3 pin 5v not 4 pin, as they're addressable.
 
Defy Belief said:
Just an FYI the Vardar fans come with splitters so you can daisy chain the rgb together and run it off one header, so you don't need a splitter. They're also 3 pin 5v not 4 pin, as they're addressable.
Click to expand...
Oh right looked on some web sites and an unboxing and could not see any

checked again, i am not buying a 3 pack just 3 individual fans
 
Last edited:
Petrolhead said:
Oh right looked on some web sites and an unboxing and could not see any
Click to expand...
They definitely do, I have the 140mm ones, the splitter is built into the cable.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-evo-120er-d-rgb-500-2200-rpm

This connector cable has a splitter to daisy chain the next Vardar D-RGB fan to it. The arrow marking on the 3-pin LED connector is to be aligned with the +5V marking on the D-RGB (ARGB) header. Also, the sleek black flat ribbon cable will not make any clutter and is easily concealed for the best cable management experience.
 
Oh well not expensive and placed the order now

edit: appoligies you are correct, my loss -
  • Daisy-chaining - The ability to link RGB connectors of multiple Vardar fans allows you to utilize a single D-RGB source to power the LEDs of several Vardar fans without creating a cable clutter.
 
Last edited:
@Petrolhead good choice on the rad yeah the price sucks for that rad but you should see those idle and load temps come right down.

have u decided where you going to place your rads? Make sure u peel the sticky of the cpu block it can be missed sometimes.

I know u not over clocked and if your happy with those speeds fair play but you ought to dial in your voltages to drop down your cpu temps even further

led different voltage between addressable and non addressable RGB
 
hlennie said:
@Petrolhead good choice on the rad yeah the price sucks for that rad but you should see those idle and load temps come right down.

have u decided where you going to place your rads? Make sure u peel the sticky of the cpu block it can be missed sometimes.

I know u not over clocked and if your happy with those speeds fair play but you ought to dial in your voltages to drop down your cpu temps even further
Click to expand...
Well you relise I will be using the Corsair and the existing EK (Just in case you thought I have bought two Corsair Rads :D)

AS for location I assume it will be top and bottom of the case, not sure which rad will be top and which will be bottom

Yes heard loads say that re sticky ;)

Now as for voltages tell be more please. I have the Asus Z490 mobo

Oh and ordered at 4pm but been told will not get items tomorrow grrrrr :)
 
I mounted cpu block so ports are on your left and right. Some have mounted other way I’m not sure if it will make a difference the cpu die is not square but rectangular running down the centre.

volt wise unable to help not received mine as yet. But a start would be bench it and drop voltage a little each time until your unstable knock it by 0.10mv once unstable you should be pretty close to you min voltage. Set load line calibration to 4.

plenty of hints and tips in the over locking section
 
hlennie said:
I mounted cpu block so ports are on your left and right. Some have mounted other way I’m not sure if it will make a difference the cpu die is not square but rectangular running down the centre.

volt wise unable to help not received mine as yet. But a start would be bench it and drop voltage a little each time until your unstable knock it by 0.10mv once unstable you should be pretty close to you min voltage. Set load line calibration to 4.

plenty of hints and tips in the over locking section
Click to expand...
thanks
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom