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Identification of missing SMD components on ASUS Dual GeForce GTX 1060 OC 6GB GDDR5

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28 Sep 2020
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Hello everyone,

New here, so I hope this post is appropriate!

I recently acquired a second hand Asus GTX 1060 6GB card but I have noticed a couple of SMD components missing, three capacitors - two beige colored ones and a black one.

Unfortunately, I'm not too clued up with these PCB components. I could just pick similar ones of another PCB but I didn't want to go in blind - so I was wondering if anyone can help and identify them please?

Picture below, they are highlighted in red boxes.

Appreciate any help, thank you.

iIZyl4C.jpg
 
Only way really is to desolder one in close proximity of the same size and measure with a meter.

The black one is likely a resistor judging by the markings on the pcb.

Is the card working?
 
Thanks for the reply Tyler,

Ah of course the C and R markings.

Yes I've just popped it in and to my amazement it does power on and let me boot into windows! I am yet to install its drivers and stress test it. However, I don't want to make anything worse and thought it would be a good idea to replace what's missing.

Assuming the caps and resistor supply stable voltage for an major component - could running it without those SMD's cause long term issues? It looks to be near the memory chips.

I'll report back once I've ran a benchmark test.
 
Manufacturers Using same pcb for different cards.

Lower spec cards will have missing Components by design.
More powerful version of same card would Have more components.

Without Schematics and board view u have no way of knowing what's missing, unless u have same card next To u for comparison .

I would say worry not, install Drivers test your card and off u go.

Or find someone with same card and compare Images.
 
On very complex PCB's there are often components missing. This is because the design has changed after the boards were made but it was possible to just omit components without going to the huge expense of reworking the PCB. Effectively they are using a version 1 board for a version 2 card. Also the same board may be used for different "quality" cards, in which case the component count might be different. I mean really I wouldn't even start to worry about it unless the card has an issue.
 
I’d agree with others. If they have been ripped off then sure you can replace them.

However if the solder joints look nice smooth, like a component has never been there then more than likely it’s due to a pcb revision when they have deemed them not necessary on your model of card.

If it boots up and runs fine chances are it will be ok anyway.
 
On my actual board the resistor located at R777 is hanging on one pad, which leads me to believe that there was impact in this area. Additionally, the solder joints for the capacitors above it have obvious shear markings, unlike those shiny bumps where these are 'missing' in other spec variants.

I've now been running the card for a couple of days now, and have furmark tested it for at least 3.5 hours with no artifacts - I got lucky for £30! Though, I'm still cautious as it's my understanding that these components filter and provide the correct voltages, so I want to mitigate any issues down the line.

I'm lead to believe that these components may be attributed to the output ports - perhaps those I'm not using (DVI, DP) > happy to be corrected here!

If I get the time I might trace these components back in continuity mode, but for now I'm stoked I got this card and it's gaming capabilities - even though it is subpar in todays standards.

Thanks everyone for chiming in
 
On my actual board the resistor located at R777 is hanging on one pad

Does it look like this: https://resources.ultralibrarian.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/0402-tombstone.png
If so that's a manufacturing defect.

In terms of figuring out what these caps and resistors should be (or if they should be fitted), look at what is on the other side of the board directly under these C's and R's. Consider that these might not be required and are removed to save time and cost during manufacturing.

A stab at it: Most likely the caps are bypassing and could be replaced by any old 100nF 25V X7R type. For the resistors, pray they're pull-downs that aren't needed except on power-on. In that case, 10k/100k would be a good starting point.
 
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