Pond liner vs pond paint

psd99 said:
Sorry bad pic click on the link
It comes up thanks
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Slide valve - these are notorious for leaking. What happens is people install them horizontally and dirt/grit prevents them from sealing/closing properly. They are cheaper than ball valves but it's a bit of a false economy.

When you change it you can find a stopper or pipe temporary (like this: https://www.bes.co.uk/drain-pressure-test-plug-4-110mm-1-2-test-point-1960/ ) that can be used to block the water side of the pipe allowing you to replace the valve if it's deep underwater.
 
ristac said:
EPDM Or Butyl Liner, you’ll need a good underlay, if you know someone getting rid of a nice thick carpet they work well.
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I concur. EPDM is what I'd use. It doesn't become brittle in UV as quick, lasts a long time. Underlay - also check for no stones or sharp objects over time they will slowly push through but carpet a good reuse.
 
psd99 said:
Ok absolute nightmare

lovely pond built in 1989
4m x 5m
Nice waterfall on the top
Someone somewhere spent a lot of money


thought the pond hose was 40mm
Ordered pond hose
It did not match the existing pipe work


So got 38mm hose
Had a few places to join the new hose to the old old
Absoultely a nightmare lots of leaks

the old pipe is rigid so hard and fragile it breaks easily
The new pipe bends at all silly angles lol

I got a few links when joining the old pipe to the new one
Any tips? Silicone? Tape? What do u all reckon?
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If the pipe is brittle then it's likely that UV from sunlight is breaking down the plastic. ABS etc is not normally recommended for longer term use. You need a UV resistant compound in the plastic - PVC-U (UPVC) is unplasticed so typically is harder but also check that it is UV resistant. Also good practice to cover the pipes for this very reason.

If it's hose, then it's easier with a connector then push the pipes on with jubilee clips to ensure the pipes don't push off/leak. You can always use some sealant/adhesive.

Joining pipe/hose without a internally inserted connector is a pain.. you need to bond the outside so any movement isn't going to cause a leak. However bonding depends on the plastic types and the bondant - this HAS to be a fish safe adhesive sealer. There's a number out there - they must not had fungicides and be able withstand prolonged periods of water contact. Typically push fit style connectors aren't favoured, the seals leak over time.
Last option for non-flexible, at least as a temporary step - using boots. They are rubber/flexible pipes that come in different sizes, made of thick EPDM, and have large jubilee clips on.. Be warned you want to recheck the tightness every couple of days initially over the first few weeks/months as the expansion/contract of pipes in temps etc means they can work loose. I've had them pop off initially but now they're completely secure. It's not long term and they would probably want a longer term solution for anything over a season or two. They can (if the cheaper ones) become brittle due to UV.
Like this: https://www.poolandpond.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d38_Flexible_Boots.html
 
Yer i tried ptfe tape today

Did not work
Basically leaks when i connect the old pipe to the new one
Every single connection weaps water out



i was reading about how the old pipe detoriates over time so becomes very rigid
That is probably why my methods are not working

i was thinking today perhaps i could use some type of washer between the two pipes?
Internal diameter of the pipe is 38mm
The plastic pipe inside is 35mm (got it from tool station)

so perhaps some type of washer on the internal plastic pipe + ptfe tape then try the jubilee clips?

otherwise what type of adhesive we talking abt here?
 
NickK said:
Slide valve - these are notorious for leaking. What happens is people install them horizontally and dirt/grit prevents them from sealing/closing properly. They are cheaper than ball valves but it's a bit of a false economy.

When you change it you can find a stopper or pipe temporary (like this: https://www.bes.co.uk/drain-pressure-test-plug-4-110mm-1-2-test-point-1960/ ) that can be used to block the water side of the pipe allowing you to replace the valve if it's deep underwater.
Click to expand...


Ok i was thinking something else

it says 1-1/2 on the side of the valve
How about i put something on the end like a stop valve that is tight and doesnt leak?
But what would that be though?
 
Its actually leaking on the new pipe i think
Not entirely sure
Im scared if i mess about with the old pipe too much it will break

what size washing do u all think or any other hints tips suggestions as the pond is losing water right now
 
You could bond that and then run a boot over the top for additional security so that the two jub clips then lock it onto the pipe.. just having a coffee but working atm, will be on in about a couple of hours.

That would work - just use something like black gold which is a fish safe adhesive/sealant between the pipe and the hose. Then on top and boot over them both.
 
NickK said:
You could bond that and then run a boot over the top for additional security so that the two jub clips then lock it onto the pipe.. just having a coffee but working atm, will be on in about a couple of hours.

That would work - just use something like black gold which is a fish safe adhesive/sealant between the pipe and the hose. Then on top and boot over them both.
Click to expand...

thanks all good now
Combination of 32mm pipe, tape and hose connectors no leaks so far
 
Pond paint will work but don't know it's longevity. Liners properly installed 20+ years. Fibreglass 25++. What you don't want is the substrate moving producing cracks when it's painted as you could come back to an empty pond. Only ever used pond paint/sealers on waterfalls so if a problem occurs it can be dealt with without causing problems to the fish.
 
RianBB said:
Pond paint will work but don't know it's longevity. Liners properly installed 20+ years. Fibreglass 25++. What you don't want is the substrate moving producing cracks when it's painted as you could come back to an empty pond. Only ever used pond paint/sealers on waterfalls so if a problem occurs it can be dealt with without causing problems to the fish.
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Precisely why I didn't go with painted concrete. The ground is made up of sand, sand and more sand - it's part of a natural flood plain/riverbed. It drains really well but we have busses turning near a roundabout nearby (enough to cause vibrations in the house) and from experience it causes pain cracks. Last thing I want is cracking concrete. So the new pond is on a rebar+C35 plinth, with blocks on top. That keeps the render+FG in place.
 
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