Reservoir Leveling Decreasing

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I have a watercooled PC that was build by OCUK late 2017 and I'm not all that ofay with technicalities of watercooled PC's Infact, I'm a complete newbie to it. I've noticed that the level within the Reservoir has decreased to around half. I cannot see any evidence of a leak and I've noticed the fans are constantly quite loud whereas before it was super quiet.

How would I go about looking into this and possibly resolving it? I.E draining / refilling with fresh solution or topping it up etc...

I have a XSPC ION Reservoir.
 
I would check temperatures to discard any blockage.
If nothing alarming, I would simply top up.
Regarding fan speeding up, maybe some air trapped. Gently shake the case, I mean, gently, and check if bubbles move around the tubing/reservoir.
 
Thank you for the quick responses guys.

I've attached some pictures in case it's of any use.

I also gave the case a gentle shake and I couldn't see any bubbles going through the pipes but I did notice some bubbles within the reservoir. you might be able to see them within the pictures but I assume this would be normal in the reservoir? (again, I'm a newbie)

https://prnt.sc/15513px - PC stats
https://prnt.sc/1551275 - Tubing
https://prnt.sc/155106z - Reservoir
 
Not familiar with that reservoir, but when the inlet is located at the bottom, like almost all tube reservoirs today, unless the level is really low, you won't be introducing air to the loop.
When the inlet is on top or higher up on the reservoir body, you should fill up to avoid creating a waterfall effect, if make sense. Water splashing on top of the reservoir level would create a lot of bubbles.
Yours seems to have an internal tubing, which would stop that from happening.

The easiest solution would be top up.
Failing that, I would drain the loop, change tubing and clean the blocks.
Filling up first is an inexpensive way to discard the need of any extra unnecessary work and time wasted.
Considering you have the system running for quite some time, as long you take your time and are comfortable doing that, I would do a complete clean and repaste all.
 
Not familiar with that reservoir, but when the inlet is located at the bottom, like almost all tube reservoirs today, unless the level is really low, you won't be introducing air to the loop.
When the inlet is on top or higher up on the reservoir body, you should fill up to avoid creating a waterfall effect, if make sense. Water splashing on top of the reservoir level would create a lot of bubbles.
Yours seems to have an internal tubing, which would stop that from happening.

The easiest solution would be top up.
Failing that, I would drain the loop, change tubing and clean the blocks.
Filling up first is an inexpensive way to discard the need of any extra unnecessary work and time wasted.
Considering you have the system running for quite some time, as long you take your time and are comfortable doing that, I would do a complete clean and repaste all.

I would literally have no idea how to even start looking at doing a complete clean / repaste etc...I'd be much too nervous that i'll get liquid all over the place!
I assume it's quite simple if you know what you're doing.

So I assume from what you said, first thing I'll do then is top the reservoir up and see how it goes from there. then pluck up the courage to do a full clean after a lot of research!
My only problem with this is, as you might be able to see from my Reservoir picture link, the opening is at the very top and I don't know how much movement I've got with the tube on the top left if I was to detach the Reservoir to get to the fill inlet.

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...b6c3678682ca8/1489357054599/Ion-Reservoir.pdf

This is the unit I have.
 
Understandable.
Yes, first top up and see if sort out.
You may need just a bit of clearance, if you get hold of a squeezing bottle to do it, like EK ones or similar.
With the system of, you may get away doing from the side port (ones opposite to where the tubing is connected.
I would disconnected all cables, rest the case on its rear and see if the reservoir allows more coolant to be added.
 
Ah thank you for the advice, I'll order the liquid and a squeezing bottle and see how I go from there.
I also just found exactly what I have in terms of the watercooling system.
Sounds like a lot of stuff but when you look at it, in the machine doesn't look like much.

Mayhems Ultra Clear Watercooling Tubing (3/8 - 5/8) 16/10mm - 1m 2
XSPC Ion All In One Pump Reservoir 1
EK Water Blocks EK-AF Angled 45 Degrees G1 / 4 inch - Black 2
EK Water Blocks EK-AF Angled 90 Degrees G1 / 4 inch - Black 1
EK Water Blocks EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm - Elox Black 6
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy MX - Acetal 1
EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) Radiator
 
As you're using mayhem's for tubing, I'm confident the block hasn't clogged.
When I mentioned turning the case, as you're not watercooling the GPU or using multiple rads, I recommend turning the case to ensure the reservoir stays at the highest point of your loop. All air will be out and no risk of pressured coolant spilling.
Use the side port with more clearance for filling. Don't need to top up to the brim. If you where to simply drain the loop, the reservoir should stay at the lowest point, them open the port at the lowest point.
But to start with, I would simply top up.
 
As you're using mayhem's for tubing, I'm confident the block hasn't clogged.
When I mentioned turning the case, as you're not watercooling the GPU or using multiple rads, I recommend turning the case to ensure the reservoir stays at the highest point of your loop. All air will be out and no risk of pressured coolant spilling.
Use the side port with more clearance for filling. Don't need to top up to the brim. If you where to simply drain the loop, the reservoir should stay at the lowest point, them open the port at the lowest point.
But to start with, I would simply top up.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but I am guessing the process to drain it would be to...

  1. With machine off? - Empty what is in the reservoir from one of the outlets on the right side (the side that isn't linked to tubing)
  2. Not sure how you'd make sure the tubes are flushed? Would it be a case of once reservoir is empty to turn machine on temporarily for the pump to push the rest out?
  3. Top up with the inlets (while the machine is off), not all the way to the top (I vaguely remember where the level was when the machine was new) I read somewhere you can leave about 2cm at the top?
  4. Turn PC on and see how it goes?
 
Machine off.
You don't need the pump to drain or fill up the loop. As long the reservoir is at the lowest point of your loop, mavity.
Again, the only way to drain near 100% is to take all apart, but no need for that.
If you decide to change the coolant, the process would be: (considering you won't take anything apart, therefore avoiding using blitz or any other cleaning kit)
Drain as much as possible.
Fill up with sterilised water or similar, run for a while, drain again. Repeat few times.
Then drain as much as possible, and add new coolant.
Please make sure all ports are closed before turning on the PC.
Not 100%, but unless going for some exotic coolant, you should be fine.
To minimize the risk of reactions, I would use Mayhem's clear coolant or one of their variants. Any opaque coolant, not doing a careful cleaning expose you to undesired results.
 
Machine off.
You don't need the pump to drain or fill up the loop. As long the reservoir is at the lowest point of your loop, mavity.
Again, the only way to drain near 100% is to take all apart, but no need for that.
If you decide to change the coolant, the process would be: (considering you won't take anything apart, therefore avoiding using blitz or any other cleaning kit)
Drain as much as possible.
Fill up with sterilised water or similar, run for a while, drain again. Repeat few times.
Then drain as much as possible, and add new coolant.
Please make sure all ports are closed before turning on the PC.
Not 100%, but unless going for some exotic coolant, you should be fine.
To minimize the risk of reactions, I would use Mayhem's clear coolant or one of their variants. Any opaque coolant, not doing a careful cleaning expose you to undesired results.


Morning,

Right, so I have drained the loop as much as I could (I was pooing myself when I had to try and turn the reservoir to get to the inlet). Getting to the top one was actually slightly easier...
I have topped it up with some more coolant and it went to the top of the reservoir leaving a little bit of space, but as I thought might happen...as soon as i powered the machine on, the loop took some of the coolant and I don't have as much in the reservoir as I originally thought.

I can still see a bit of a waterfall effect so I am guessing I need to try to top the reservoir up as much as possible without moving it all around too much so that I can get above the inlet.
 
After draining the loop there will always be some air somewhere like radiator.
That's unless filling point is the absolutely highest point of the loop, whose every part has direct path upward for air to rise out during refilling.

So checking level and adding necessary amount more coolant is standard procedure after first running.
 
What I would try is, if possible, try to unscrew the reservoir and see if you can access the top/filling port.
Not sure if you can reach the screws, but the tubing plus the angled fittings would allow you to move the revervoir a little bit downwards, so you can access the top port.
As long you don't put too much pressure on the tubing, forcing it down, which I think you shouldn't need to, you're going to be fine.
Soft tubing allows that, and as long you don't stretch it or force it too much, it won't come lose.
Basically, the only thing that may limit you doing that is access to the screws security the reservoir. Once lose, both angled fittings would do the "job".
You can them access the top and top up a bit more.
Off topic, I understand the builder idea to use a top inlet, as both outlet and inlet at the same side, but the issue is that depending how low the level gets, the inlet splashing over the reservoir level will creat bubbles.
 
What I would try is, if possible, try to unscrew the reservoir and see if you can access the top/filling port.
Not sure if you can reach the screws, but the tubing plus the angled fittings would allow you to move the revervoir a little bit downwards, so you can access the top port.
As long you don't put too much pressure on the tubing, forcing it down, which I think you shouldn't need to, you're going to be fine.
Soft tubing allows that, and as long you don't stretch it or force it too much, it won't come lose.
Basically, the only thing that may limit you doing that is access to the screws security the reservoir. Once lose, both angled fittings would do the "job".
You can them access the top and top up a bit more.
Off topic, I understand the builder idea to use a top inlet, as both outlet and inlet at the same side, but the issue is that depending how low the level gets, the inlet splashing over the reservoir level will creat bubbles.

Yeah I had to unscrew the reservoir from the other side of the case to get to the top inlet. I don't need too much more coolant in there now so I'll try it again when the other half gets home from work so she can hold it in place while I top it up!
The temperatures of the machine have decreased as well which is nice and the fan speeds have slowed down...I am assuming it was due to the lack of coolant going round.
 
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