Road Cycling

Could a Strava user check something for me?

Last night I went to edit the gear settings on a bike to reflect fitting a new change:

https://www.strava.com/settings/gear

However, when you click into a bike, then "Add Component", I couldn't find chain on the list of components. It's obviously been there in the past as I have an existing chain listed:

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Obviously some off the bottom of this grab but no chain in my list

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I get the same on two PCs. I've opened a ticket with Strava but who knows when they will reply!
 
#Chri5# said:
Could a Strava user check something for me?

Obviously some off the bottom of this grab but no chain in my list
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It's showing for me as the first component in the list. I'm also seeing others that you don't seem to have, such as cassette and bottom bracket. Just in case it's dependent on bike type, all mine are set as Road Bike.
 
I got the gym bike hooked up with Zwift this morning. Did a 20 minute zwift session with 5 mins warm up and cool down either side. Felt a bit twingy on the back when I got up but felt good on the bike if ignoring how insanely hot it is without the wind cooling you. Now back home 3 hours later and the normal evening back ache has started to set in. Also walked to the gym which is 1.2 mile round trip.

Back to my bike, how true should a carbon wheel be? I flipped the bike round and noticed that the rear brake pad rubs very slightly for part of the wheel rotation. Easily sorted by adjusting the pads, but should carbon wheels be 100% straight? Or is a slight variance normal?
 
With roadbikes how much better are disc breaks? i did have hydraulic disks on my hybrid but I didn't ride it enough to really feel like they did something regular brakes can't.

Basically, one bike is £1900 and the exact same bike but with discs is £2399. Are disk breaks really £500 better? This is my first ever road bike so I wont be close to the limit of it for years and it's not like I live in the Alps where I'll be doing crazy downhills.
 
Junglist said:
With roadbikes how much better are disc breaks? i did have hydraulic disks on my hybrid but I didn't ride it enough to really feel like they did something regular brakes can't.

Basically, one bike is £1900 and the exact same bike but with discs is £2399. Are disk breaks really £500 better? This is my first ever road bike so I wont be close to the limit of it for years and it's not like I live in the Alps where I'll be doing crazy downhills.
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Personally I wouldn't buy a bike without disc brakes these days, whether they're worth an extra £500 on the same bike is up for debate.
 
Kelt said:
Personally I wouldn't buy a bike without disc brakes these days, whether they're worth an extra £500 on the same bike is up for debate.
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Part of my thinking is get the disc brake version... but then it is almost 1/4 extra on top. I already feel like spending near £2000 on a bike at my level (practically a beginner - my longest ride is only ~45 miles on a fixed gear. I've wanted a road-bike for some time now but cycling up the Mendips with a 74.61 gear inch was not very fun Neither was going downhill and it has accelerated my desire for a road bike) is ridiculous but I also don't want to buy a cheaper bike and feel like I need to upgrade a year or so down the line
 
I can't say if it's worth £500 as that's a pretty personal choice, but I bought my first bike with disc brakes a couple of years back and can't think of a good reason to go back.

For me, they modulate better, are much better in the wet, and are a lot more powerful. I'm 6' 4" and 80kg so need some stopping power on reasonably steep stuff.

The minor downsides - maintenance is more difficult (I can't replace a hydraulic seal but I could replace a cable easily enough, although both of those are pretty rare) and the tolerance on the caliper is tight so if you take wheels out it can be a bit of a faff to get them back in without rubbing.
 
There is every chance that I don't go for the bike I like the look of and go for something cheaper and better speced. I just can't work out if it's worth that much extra. If it changed the groupset as well I'd understand. Of course I am really ignorant of bike prices so it's probably more me and less the price.
 
Junglist said:
There is every chance that I don't go for the bike I like the look of and go for something cheaper and better speced. I just can't work out if it's worth that much extra. If it changed the groupset as well I'd understand. Of course I am really ignorant of bike prices so it's probably more me and less the price.
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Does it have to be an out and out road bike?

I'm looking to get a Boardman gravel bike when they come back in stock, much more versatile bike IMO.

Even the lower end bike at £1100 is well specced with a 2x10 Shimano GRX groupset and hydraulic brakes.

Someone here has the £1800 carbon version and they really rate it.
 
Kelt said:
Does it have to be an out and out road bike?

I'm looking to get a Boardman gravel bike when they come back in stock, much more versatile bike IMO.

Even the lower end bike at £1100 is well specced with a 2x10 Shimano GRX groupset and hydraulic brakes.

Someone here has the £1800 carbon version and they really rate it.
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It doesn't have to be an out and out road bike but I currently do most my cycling on roads and cycle paths and I'm not hugely bothered about cycling gravel/canal paths really.

There was a Boardman road bike that I really liked the look of and it was much more easy to stomach at ~£1100... but I just love the look of the CF SL 7.

I wont lie. There is an element of me that wants a proper bike brand for once as my last bikes have been a Hoy and now a Mango bike. I, rather vainly, want a proper bike brand. No idea why and I'm fully aware it makes no sense but the heart wants what the hearts wants :p

The real deciding factor is the fact none of the Canyons within my price range are even available until the winter!
 
What is the bike and when will you use it?

If its used in dry weather only then save your money and get some nice carbon rims, if not and its got good shimano hydros then it may be worth the extra.

I've got the boardman ADV 9.0 and it is a fantastic bike, I've got a set of hunt Aero wides with road tyres and use the standard rims as the gravel options. It does go well across all terrains even with the gravel tyres on. It's great in winter on rubbish roads as the extra rear compliance provides more reassurance on rubbish dirty wet roads. Plus loads of clearance for some guards.
 
SoliD said:
What is the bike and when will you use it?

If its used in dry weather only then save your money and get some nice carbon rims, if not and its got good shimano hydros then it may be worth the extra.

I've got the boardman ADV 9.0 and it is a fantastic bike, I've got a set of hunt Aero wides with road tyres and use the standard rims as the gravel options. It does go well across all terrains even with the gravel tyres on. It's great in winter on rubbish roads as the extra rear compliance provides more reassurance on rubbish dirty wet roads. Plus loads of clearance for some guards.
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I'd say it's mostly going to be used in the dry. I'll keep my fixie for the horrible weather days. I wont be adverse to riding in the wet but it would be the exception and not the rule. I'd be more likely to get caught out in the rain than head out in the rain

Of course there is always the risk that, like most things I do, I'll get fully obsessive about cycling and end up going out even in wet days if I love it enough
 
Needed to get out the house yesterday so jumped on the Scott Addict. Man I've missed riding that bike. It's such a bloody great bike. Apart from it deciding to **** a tube at 30km into the ride, with nothing on me, in the middle of a full on monsoon. Yea. Thanks. Walked 8km back home in soaking cycling shoes.

That is all.
 
#Chri5# said:
You have to retire the old component first, which makes sense now I think about it :rolleyes: :D
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I've fallen for that in the past. Honestly, I think if I say 'I've put new tyres on' it should just retire the old one for me (maybe with a pop up to check I have the right component).

We had a 'work ride' last night, which is normally 3 or 4 of us regular riders, baby sitting 3 or 4 slower occasional riders, with lots of chat and banter. I dreamt up something a little different for yesterday. If you imagine the route as a triangle, starting at the base, us faster riders did the full triangle, the slower guys have an adjusted route, cutting the top corners off. We would do 44 miles, they would do 36.

We first caught (stopped and had a chat/bar/gel) with 21 miles to go on our route, so technically they were ahead as we'd passed half way when we caught them. I think they didn't bring enough gels/bars to fuel properly though (one guy hadn't brought anything, despite us trying to explain how important fuelling is, every ride) and also 36 miles is still a pretty big ride for them, so actually we caught them the second time about 4 miles out and in the end we got back in about 3 hours and they got back about 5 minutes later, so pretty close really. Was good fun, quite different and will be interesting to do again at some point as these shorter route riders are still starting out, so getting quicker each month.
 
Junglist said:
As in which bike am I looking at? It’s the entry level Canyon Ultimate CF SL7 with the 105 group set that I’ve got my beady eyes on
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Yeah, tbh I'd go rim brake option. Can upgrade to a lovely di2 set up in a few years, or spend what you would on the disc option on the model further up the range and get ultegra spec and better wheels.
 
SoliD said:
Yeah, tbh I'd go rim brake option. Can upgrade to a lovely di2 set up in a few years, or spend what you would on the disc option on the model further up the range and get ultegra spec and better wheels.
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£2500 is certainly the highest I'd want to go but even looking on the cyclescheme calculator based on my current situation (hoping to get pay rise soon - pray for me) it's only £153 a month. I can stomach that.

I'd presume that would last me a good old length of time too
 
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