Good value PCP deals / best GFV performers?

You can have my 2012 Insignia - ridiculously low monthly payments and an excellent GFV, based in the fact it’s lost 95% of its value already.

Family car, too!
 
Tesla quotes are ridiculous;

Model 3 Long Range

Representative Example | 48 fixed monthly payments of £704 | On-the-road cash price £48,490 | Total down payment £3,100 | Total amount of credit £45,390 | Optional Final Payment £17,941 | Interest charges £6,350 | Fixed rate of interest per year 4.90% | Length of agreement 48 months | Total amount payable £54,840 | Representative APR 4.90% | Mileage per annum 10,000 | Excess mileage charge 14 ppm (Plus VAT).

Model 3 Performance

Representative Example | 48 fixed monthly payments of £888 | On-the-road cash price £59,990 | Total down payment £3,100 | Total amount of credit £56,890 | Optional Final Payment £22,196 | Interest charges £7,932 | Fixed rate of interest per year 4.90% | Length of agreement 48 months | Total amount payable £67,922 | Representative APR 4.90% | Mileage per annum 10,000 | Excess mileage charge 14 ppm (Plus VAT).
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GFV to MRRP can be massively slewed though. When I was getting my first VW touareg 6 years ago, they had horrible depreciation and hence terrible GFV vs MRRP but the manufacturer had a deal on with £5k off the list price plus another £6k contibution to the PCP plus I got another £6k from the dealer as clearly he needed to sell another car before the end of the month os overall effectively I got £17k off the list price of £55k which made the awful GFV bearable and made the monthly payments really cheap.

At the same time we were also getting an audi q5 s line which had really decent GFV but little discount (was the new model coming out I think). Ended up that ausi was only £1 per month cheaper than the Touareg depsite the fact the audi was only a £43k car.

On your criteria, you wouldnt even look at that Touareg. Always go on monthly payment.
 
In the hope that it helps someone else that stumbles across this thread, the Mk7.5 Golf GTI is a good performer.

£21k purchase price, £3k down, £10k GFV gives £270/m

£10k seems pretty generous seeing as that’s what the S4 and 340i was, too.
 
chanjy said:
From looking at an M4 to a Golf GTI... yes the payments are cheaper lol
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Well sure, it sounds obvious. But a large part of it isn’t for the reason you’d think.

Despite the M4 being over £10k more, it’s GFV is only £2k more than the Golf’s.

Of course we all know an M4 isn’t going to be worth £12k in 4 years time.

If the GFV was more reasonable, the M4 certainly wouldn’t be double the monthly cost of the Golf. It seems the finance companies have no confidence in the residuals of a lot of cars.

Monthly costs don’t seem to be representative of the car. I wonder, has that always been the case or is this covid related? Either way, it highlights the importance of searching around for the cars that perform well if you’re not dead set on a particular car.
 
mikehhhhhhh said:
Monthly costs don’t seem to be representative of the car. I wonder, has that always been the case or is this covid related? Either way, it highlights the importance of searching around for the cars that perform well if you’re not dead set on a particular car.
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Hence why I only look at the (my) predicted TCO, since deposits, monthlies, and other things are meaningless if all you are looking to do is own/rent/use "that car" for for a specific amount of time, TCO is king.
 
yes I still dont get this argument, beyond delta maintenance costs for an M4,
so - dealers are unsure about the future m4 values versus golf, so you pay more, but you can gamble on that higher equity, versus golf with less equity & higher gfv.
 
jpaul said:
yes I still dont get this argument, beyond delta maintenance costs for an M4,
so - dealers are unsure about the future m4 values versus golf, so you pay more, but you can gamble on that higher equity, versus golf with less equity & higher gfv.
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Sure, but that's completely at odds with the brief of getting as much car for as little monthly payments as possible.
 
mikehhhhhhh said:
Sure, but that's completely at odds with the brief of getting as much car for as little monthly payments as possible.
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Your first post says you’ve never financed a car before and you’re a bit green.

There’s plenty of people telling you are looking at it the wrong way and that the monthly cash payments are not the right way to assess it.

But you know best I guess :rolleyes:
 
chanjy said:
Your first post says you’ve never financed a car before and you’re a bit green.

There’s plenty of people telling you are looking at it the wrong way and that the monthly cash payments are not the right way to assess it.

But you know best I guess :rolleyes:
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I’ve not financed a car before, but I’m not an idiot.

I’m quite aware that total cost is not directly linked to monthly payments.

But the key factor for me is low monthly payments, followed closely by relative value ie. a balance between the best car and lower monthlies. If, in isolation I just wanted the absolute cheapest over the time I owned it, then I’d buy it cash.

What is incorrect about that?
 
mikehhhhhhh said:
I’ve not financed a car before, but I’m not an idiot.

I’m quite aware that total cost is not directly linked to monthly payments.

But the key factor for me is low monthly payments, followed closely by relative value ie. a balance between the best car and lower monthlies. If, in isolation I just wanted the absolute cheapest over the time I owned it, then I’d buy it cash.

What is incorrect about that?
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It just makes no sense.

If you can afford to buy it for cash then why would you even consider the 8-9% APR PCP on a used car?

Even if you did want to go the PCP route, if you have so much cash why are the monthlies so important compared to the actual cost of ownership? You wouldn’t be short of a few quid.

If you are that bothered by monthlies and you could afford to pay cash why not put in a bigger deposit and make the monthlies closer to 0?
 
chanjy said:
It just makes no sense.

If you can afford to buy it for cash then why would you even consider the 8-9% APR PCP on a used car?

Even if you did want to go the PCP route, if you have so much cash why are the monthlies so important compared to the actual cost of ownership? You wouldn’t be short of a few quid.

If you are that bothered by monthlies and you could afford to pay cash why not put in a bigger deposit and make the monthlies closer to 0?
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They’re not unreasonable considerations, and this is exactly why I’ve not financed a car before.

It’s not like I’m rolling in it but I’ve since become smarter with money and it’s doing better than 8-10% pa where it is.

But I also don’t care for long term financial commitments, so I plan to keep my monthly payments a long way from what I can afford - hence looking for good value rather than working to a set budget.
 
I was kinda onboard with the OP but you have become more and more illogical as the posts have carried on.

If you are looking for best value, it should over the life of the deal. Unless you are some super-savvy investor you are not making a guaranteed 8-10%.

Bank loan, cash or GTFO and buy a lease mobile.
 
mikehhhhhhh said:
I’m quite aware that total cost is not directly linked to monthly payments.
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You do need to understand that if you have a desired total cost over a fixed term then the monthlies make almost zero difference.

Someone who puts £6k down up front, then pays £300 per month over 24 months, is paying the same as the person who puts £1k down up front, £5k in the bank, then pays £466.66 per month for 24 months, the main difference will be the interest on the increased balance, but having more free capital available for longer.

You are focusing on the value/cost of the car when new, which I get, when comparing cars, but the TCO of the higher priced list car will be higher normally as well, due to more expensive tyres, servicing, worse mpg, insurance risk etc. Lots of factors :)
 
Journey said:
You do need to understand that if you have a desired total cost over a fixed term then the monthlies make almost zero difference.
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mikehhhhhhh said:
I’m quite aware that total cost is not directly linked to monthly payments.

But the key factor for me is low monthly payments, followed closely by relative value
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:o


Journey said:
You are focusing on the value/cost of the car when new, which I get, when comparing cars, but the TCO of the higher priced list car will be higher normally as well, due to more expensive tyres, servicing, worse mpg, insurance risk etc. Lots of factors :)
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I'd focus on digesting the requirements before trying to offer advice ;)
 
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