Hot water feed

Soldato
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The dishwasher has packed up and previous owner has done a right bodge job (as with other things we've found). It's also on a hot water feed and most modern days one's seem to be a cold feed (would need to split the cold water into two)

Pretty certain of the answer, but seeing as no plumber can be arsed to return my calls I'm just tempted to do it myself.

Running a combi but if I was to turn the mains water off and open the hot water tap this would drain any hot water left?
 
Some people have stuck them on the hot water feed as the dishwasher doesn't need to heat the water up as much.

Gas is typically more efficient to heat up water than electric. Whether it makes that much of a saving or not, who knows.

Yes turning off the water supply to your boiler and draining what's left in the pipes would stop any further water coming through the hot supply.
 
Thanks both. Will check out whether to hook up to hot water feed, although pipework will need changing anyhow. The dishwasher water feed is just a rubber flexible pipe clamped onto the copper pipe
 
I wish mine was connected to the hot water feed. Definitely makes more sense than the cold, if the diswasher tolerates it.

I think all manufacturers state cold supply only.

TBH i think the energy savings are a bit of a myth anyway. Average modern dishwasher uses about 10 litres per cycle. As i have a combi boiler, it means running the water for a short while before it starts to get hot - i've never measured but reckon it could be close to at least 5 litres before it starts to get warm.
 
I think all manufacturers state cold supply only.

TBH i think the energy savings are a bit of a myth anyway. Average modern dishwasher uses about 10 litres per cycle. As i have a combi boiler, it means running the water for a short while before it starts to get hot - i've never measured but reckon it could be close to at least 5 litres before it starts to get warm.
Mine certainly is given distance from the tank. All it would do is cool down 5litres of hot
 
Mine certainly is given distance from the tank. All it would do is cool down 5litres of hot

If it's fed from a tank that'd be a bit different as the water would be mildly warm even if it hasn't been heated in a while. The problem with combi is the direct from cold feed - especially in winter where the water is probably only a few degrees. But same applies to the dishwasher. If it has to heat up 5C water to 60C versus mild water in a tank at 20C and heated to 60C.
 
If it's fed from a tank that'd be a bit different as the water would be mildly warm even if it hasn't been heated in a while. The problem with combi is the direct from cold feed - especially in winter where the water is probably only a few degrees. But same applies to the dishwasher. If it has to heat up 5C water to 60C versus mild water in a tank at 20C and heated to 60C.
It is if the hot water has been ran, otherwise you just get the first 10l of water that has said cooling in the pipework!
 
Personally I'd fix the pipework if it's in a bad state and the hoses aren't current standard with isolator taps and put both the washing machine and the dishwasher onto the cold tap. The chances are the plumbers aren't interested because it's a small job that whilst it might only take them 15-30 minutes involves a lot of heavy moving (washing machines are not fun to plumb in), plus travel time.

Theoretically this is the sort of job that should take possibly an hour or so, isolate the incoming water at the main stop ****, drain the water from the pipes, measure up and cut out/unscrew a suitable section of pipe around the old outlets, put in a replacement section of blank pipe for the hot water, and a section with the two outlet valves at the right places on the cold.
It'll probably cost a length of copper pipe, a clip on pipe cutter (about a tenner), and either a compression joint at each end of the new section or solder joint* along with the valves. i'd go with compression fit T valves (screwfix do them at ~2,50 and £6 depending on brand) rather than the "clamp on" type.
Total cost assuming you've not got any of the tools probably 50-60, and an hour or two of your time, if you've got a halfway decent tool set it's basically the cost of a bit of pipe and the fittings (and maybe a new hose to the appliance).

However, and I cannot stress this enough, if you do it yourself make sure you aim to start early in the day, and not on a Sunday - plumbing jobs tend to either go quickly and well, or you find that you need something you'd not planned on, and if you reuse an existing hose get some of the rubber washers to fit it, the old ones can/do go hard and may not be watertight if reused (you can usually get them in packs very cheaply), and a roll of PTFE tape.
It's also worth seeing if any of your neighbours you're on good terms with, or friends have any experience and would be willing to assist if needed if it's your first time:) (watching youtube videos is helpful but having a second pair of hands to grab the bucket and hold the torch is always good).

It is if the hot water has been ran, otherwise you just get the first 10l of water that has said cooling in the pipework!
Yup

Also there may be specific reasons for wanting a colder feed, for one thing it means that the machine is able to regulate the heat better, with domestic hot water you could see the water out of the tap at 60-70c when you're trying to do a wash that might only want/need 30-40c (only pan wash programs tend to go hotter these days), and it can be detrimental for some items to be washed at the higher temperatures as some plastics for example can be damaged if you wash them too hot repeatedly.

Most dishwashers these days only need to heat a few litres up for their cycle, and usually do the initial rinse as a cold one.


*If using solder joints remember to thoroughly clean both sides of the joint where it's going to be soldered with wirewool.
 
@Werewolf thanks for the advice. There is an isolator valve it's just all the pipework after it.

Only issue now is I was going to add one of these to the water feed to hook the dishwasher up but I don't think I'll be able to replace the old isolator valve as its too close to the elbow so won't be able to take it back. Is there a rule on having two isolator values in a short succession?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-washing-machine-valve-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x/60723
 
AFAIK there is no rule about how close they are to each other, at least not for DIY jobs.
You may want to make sure there is a pipe clip between and after them, but you're probably fine putting them quite close together, I would probably leave about 10-20cm between them.

I'm basically a DIY level plumber, but have been doing it on and off since I was about 10, oddly enough I think one of m first jobs was replacing a T valve in my dad's kitchen with him telling me how to do it:) (it was either that or one of the taps, I could fit in the under sink cupboard more easily to undo it from below:p)
 
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