1930s Semi Refurb - Part 2 of ... (Edition: Boiler/Water Tank Relocation)

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dirtychinchilla said:
Insulation works in two directions, remember. In the winter it'll keep heat in, and in the summer keep heat out.
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Yep, but once the heat is in you need a way to extract it in summer and believe me it always comes in unless you also take extra moves like painting the house white, external shutters and even then the houses still heat up. So while in theory your idea works in practice it doesn't, just one reason why modern new builds with no means of extracting heat are virtually unliveable in summer upstairs.
 
200sols said:
Yep, but once the heat is in you need a way to extract it in summer and believe me it always comes in unless you also take extra moves like painting the house white, external shutters and even then the houses still heat up. So while in theory your idea works in practice it doesn't, just one reason why modern new builds with no means of extracting heat are virtually unliveable in summer upstairs.
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Fair enough! I considered puttin reflective film on the windows upstairs, but then you'd have to take it down in the winter so decided it was pointless.
 
Right, three wild cards:
  1. Get the current system running, and take my time to think through what I actually need/want
  2. Pay the £6k and get the "volume company" to put the tank in the loft and fit a system boiler
  3. Go Combi and take the opportunity to lay a new downstairs circuit and move the upstairs rads

Option 1 will cost me a fortune in gas as the current Potterton is probably horrendous (£300/mo?)
- I achieve heat, no other progress/ progress will be constrained around not touching the existing system.

Option 2 will still leave me with a crappy set of rads and/or pumping loads of **** through the new system
- I achieve heat, and the opportunity to try and get the bathroom sorting by tee'ing off of the new, visible pipework in the loft

Option 3 will actually change my life/enable me to decorate/lay floors/work at my leisure doing things that matter.
- I achieve heat, an almost new heating system with efficient rads everywhere

Unfortunately I have no costs for Option 3. I am hoping the man who did my radiator move in the previous house will come up trumps pricing wise.
 
You can lay all the pipes, install rads etc yourself to save in costs. You only need a gas engineer for final connection and commissioning of the boiler. Option 3 is clearly the best. Option 2 is pointless, option 1 is short term viable. All IMO of course!
 
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200sols said:
You can lay all the pipes, install rads etc yourself to save in costs. You only need a gas engineer for final connection and commissioning of the boiler. Option 3 is clearly the best. Option 2 is pointless, option 1 is short term viable. All IMO of course!
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You say that..... but can I? :cry:

I had these chaps move a rad in the bathroom as I was going to tile over the pipework. I can probably get away with chasing it into the walls this time around.

Do you reckon Option 2, but with a reputable company, and me doing my own rad work is worth it? Or should I just go combi?...Not sure how much of a premium I am paying for unvented versus combi - I imagine costs are fairly similar given a combi would be more expensive kit wise and also need the tank removing and pipework for the upstairs circuit re-routing...
 
If I could turn back the clock 13 years I would have fitted a pressure hot water tank and rads - Combi is absolute rubbish for me.
I did buy Worcester Bosch so didn't cheap out. (Oil )
 
Subject to my man coming back sooner rather than later, I'm tempted to go for volume company and then get plumbers in as and when required to move the rad pipework.
 
dLockers said:
If I had the cash then for sure. But even £6k for a standard setup is a tough pill to swallow. Unfortunately I have bought my house at the peak of the market (next door paid £120k less) so I can't remortgage to release the capital to do the work in a "one-er".
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6k?

Thats the price for installing a combi boiler from what I saw from checker trader.
 
dirtychinchilla said:
Insulation works in two directions, remember. In the winter it'll keep heat in, and in the summer keep heat out.
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Yea exactly. There's a lot of benefits insulating your property fully even if u don't install a air source heat pump
200sols said:
What is so funny?
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It's not easy to do that for a novice who doesn't specialise as a plumber.

Best to get a pro to do it
 
200sols said:
I mean... for gas sure. But radiators, nah its super easy and you can literally save thousands.

Dlockers needs a challenge, if he fits his own rads he could buy a gucci belt.
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Settled then.... I'll do option 2 for low cost system and cylinder install and do the rads myself.

Are vertical rads a consideration or issue?
 
I've installed a few with no issues but if you are going for those designer style rads then size them up a bit as in my experience they are less efficient despite the claimed output. They do look really good in the right place though.
 
200sols said:
I've installed a few with no issues but if you are going for those designer style rads then size them up a bit as in my experience they are less efficient despite the claimed output. They do look really good in the right place though.
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Roger that... I did do the maths:

AsAQLF6.png

Salmon is width/height of window
Green is area of window
Blue is room dimensions
Purple is BTUs using an online site where you key in w/d/h and some facts about number of outside walls etc.

I'm thinking for dining I get the 490x2000 (4709 BTU), for living I get the 1410x600 (4606) and for the hall I get the 398x2000 (3767BTU).

HNgLVxD.png


No issues with pressure "pushing the hot water up"?

God I don't know why I haven't' been fired yet lol.
 
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Right, preferred plumber has just text me -- he suggested order what rads I can to replace what I have, and then turn off the ones that are not being replaced - to somewhat mitigate the junk in the system. Happy with this.

He then said he can contract 2 or 3 separate half days to hook up my rads in "new" locations. Again, happy with this.

Wish me luck he doesn't come with a total $lol bill...tomorrow evening. I pray this is the guy.
 
200sols said:
You can lay all the pipes, install rads etc yourself to save in costs. You only need a gas engineer for final connection and commissioning of the boiler. Option 3 is clearly the best. Option 2 is pointless, option 1 is short term viable. All IMO of course!
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Would you do Hep2o under the floor or insist on copper?

Latest bloke has suggested a top of the range combi and new rad circuit all on plastic.

If it is plastic I can do it myself and get just a boiler man in...
 
dLockers said:
Would you do Hep2o under the floor or insist on copper?

Latest bloke has suggested a top of the range combi and new rad circuit all on plastic.

If it is plastic I can do it myself and get just a boiler man in...
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Plastic all the way for me, I always use speed fit myself straight into push fit valve connectors on the rads really simple or switch to copper for the final connection if it will be visible like coming up from the floor as I don't like visible plastic. It really is simple to install, just use inserts where needed and make sure no pipes are under tension, copper or plastic that is a source of leaks years down the line.
 
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