Combating energy prices

Probably not, but it’d be a fun tool to have! I could probably convince the FIL that he needs to check his house and go halves…


I guess I just need to get into the loft, take up the boards and see what’s down there and try and replace. I’m not wanting to raise the board level so hopefully adding in enough to take it to the boards will be sufficient.

That's what I did. I only had 150-170mm of insulation so added another 100mm. It's already made a noticeable difference. I.e. the heating hasn't kicked, in those rooms yet. It's a ****** job but actually for the investment in terms of cash well worth it.
 
I know it is going to depend on a number of things, but is "wet" underfloor heating typically cheaper to run and heat spaces vs traditional radiators?
 
I know it is going to depend on a number of things, but is "wet" underfloor heating typically cheaper to run and heat spaces vs traditional radiators?
It can be because you can run it at lower temperatures because it has a higher surface area. You are not talking about big gains though over a well set up radiator system (most are not well set up and run inefficiently as a result). There are other quality of life benefits though like more even heating, no rads on show, typically each room as a separate zone etc.

It’s also ideal for heat pumps for this reason.
 
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Probably not, but it’d be a fun tool to have! I could probably convince the FIL that he needs to check his house and go halves…

Yea, I have curtains on most windows but I think it’s a case of the heat escaping mainly from the ceiling and walls. I’m going to put a curtain over the front door and also the fully glass back door which should help.

I guess I just need to get into the loft, take up the boards and see what’s down there and try and replace. I’m not wanting to raise the board level so hopefully adding in enough to take it to the boards will be sufficient.

Yea I own it, double glazing throghout. Also got a few chimney vents but did the candle test last night and doesn’t seem to be a draft from them. Gas ch and radiators throughout, though they’ve not been on yet!

Good luck :)
 
Had a sizable gap between window sash and frame. Enough for a breeze! Probably a good 4mm

Successfully changed the hinges on my own in an attempt to not have to buy new windows.

To my amazement it worked.

Note! A window is much heavier when you're trying to hold it in place with one hand, stopping it from smashing to the the ground and trying to put the screws in with a power drill!

It was the upper floor! So did it from indoors

YouTube made it look easy!

Dirty old hinges below

q5rQEys.jpg


This is the temperature profile for Tuesday.
Will see if any improvement tomorrow.

I think there will be.
FEwsLoh.jpg


These two rooms are on similar schedule.
This is from last year for February.

So hopefully can measure some actual savings.

EOnigEp.jpg
 
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Had a sizable gap between window sash and frame. Enough for a breeze! Probably a good 4mm

Successfully changed the hinges on my own in an attempt to not have to buy new windows.

To my amazement it worked.

Note! A window is much heavier when you're trying to hold it in place with one hand, stopping it from smashing to the the ground and trying to put the screws in with a power drill!

It was the upper floor! So did it from indoors

YouTube made it look easy!

Dirty old hinges below

q5rQEys.jpg


This is the temperature profile for Tuesday.
Will see if any improvement tomorrow.

I think there will be.
FEwsLoh.jpg


These two rooms are on similar schedule.
This is from last year for February.

So hopefully can measure some actual savings.

EOnigEp.jpg

Interesting, I have a few that I think I may need to do the same on. I have been wondering about that, have looked at some youtube as well and figured this looks easy, but is it really
Side mounted by the looks of them?

I have found one thing though and that surprised me a lot. I was oiling the same parts on my windows and found that one that had a large gap almost completely disappeared on oiling.
I think what has happened is that over time dust gets into the mechs and stops them closing properly. As we tend to open them around March/April and not really fully close until around now there ie plenty of time for dust to get into places it shouldn't be
I am going to do them again

I was thinking to buy one of them window suckers so that it might be easier to hold it than otherwise. Like yours all but one of mine I would would to update are first floor!
 
Interesting, I have a few that I think I may need to do the same on. I have been wondering about that, have looked at some youtube as well and figured this looks easy, but is it really
Side mounted by the looks of them?

I have found one thing though and that surprised me a lot. I was oiling the same parts on my windows and found that one that had a large gap almost completely disappeared on oiling.
I think what has happened is that over time dust gets into the mechs and stops them closing properly. As we tend to open them around March/April and not really fully close until around now there ie plenty of time for dust to get into places it shouldn't be
I am going to do them again

I was thinking to buy one of them window suckers so that it might be easier to hold it than otherwise. Like yours all but one of mine I would would to update are first floor!

Get someone else to help! Then it would be easy!
These were side mount yes.
Had to drill 4 new holes. But only one per "part". By that I mean one on the frame top, sash top, frame bottom, sash bottom.

Hinges were 5 pounds for the 2 (the set).


It only took 30 mins. And that included "learning".

Took longer to clean windows! Good opportunity!

Got a few more windows (particularly kitchen) to do but wanted to try the biggest offender first. Surprised to be honest that it worked. Much quieter in my office too!
 
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Get someone else to help! Then it would be easy!
These were side mount yes.
Had to drill 4 new holes. But only one per "part". By that I mean one on the frame top, sash top, frame bottom, sash bottom.

Hinges were 5 pounds for the 2 (the set).


It only took 30 mins. And that included "learning".

Took longer to clean windows! Good opportunity!

Got a few more windows (particularly kitchen) to do but wanted to try the biggest offender first. Surprised to be honest that it worked. Much quieter in my office too!

Getting rid of drafts is so important, did you put any new seals in them or extra foam seal around the frame? If not it is worth checking the seals, and they perish quite quickly.
 
Getting rid of drafts is so important, did you put any new seals in them or extra foam seal around the frame? If not it is worth checking the seals, and they perish quite quickly.
Thought about it. It would probably help. But I didn't. They aren't great but they aren't falling apart.

Draft was noticeable. Temperature drops quickly without heating actually on. With rad under the window it makes it even worse.

I may see a difference tomorrow in my tado profile. Also as its my study and I WFH I'm in there a lot.

Gfs room is bigger and takes less heating time too.
 
Agree with MKW comment about identical hinges did a thorough clean up with IPA and a toothbrush on the part of the window hinge mechanism adjacent to non swinging side,
which causes the final pulling in of the window into the frame and restored it to a good closure,
still don't understand exactly how the bent bits of metal achieve this, and I had thought they were bent from use - but clearly not , lashings of teflon spray /gt86 after clean-up

trickle vents are still open ... becomes incredibly stuffy in house where they are all closed up in winter time (folks place) not surprising respiratory diseases are prevalent
need some degree of humidity too, so you don't need to turn thermostat up as much (less evaporation/sweating)
 
Agree with MKW comment about identical hinges did a thorough clean up with IPA and a toothbrush on the part of the window hinge mechanism adjacent to non swinging side,
which causes the final pulling in of the window into the frame and restored it to a good closure,
still don't understand exactly how the bent bits of metal achieve this, and I had thought they were bent from use - but clearly not , lashings of teflon spray /gt86 after clean-up

trickle vents are still open ... becomes incredibly stuffy in house where they are all closed up in winter time (folks place) not surprising respiratory diseases are prevalent
need some degree of humidity too, so you don't need to turn thermostat up as much (less evaporation/sweating)

Toothbrush, why didn't I think of that!

I am now fairly convinced dust/grit is the main issue and not those bits at the top.
I think a few have moved slightly on mine, by appearance, but I think they may be not much more than a basic lock in effect to hold the top part of the window in place when closed.
It does feel like they pull the window close but I wonder if really thats just the mech working properly and they aren't actually doing anything directly.

I just used WD40 but might be better with something else a little less sticky initially and the oil later. Maybe some fairy liquid diluted.
Although liberal WD40 did seem to get plenty of dust out.
 
Good work 413x, not sure why so many people think a wall is more likely to draft than a window.

Its obvious in our house the windows are the main culprit.
Even without the Tado when you can hear air whistling when it's windy and feel it its going to be the biggest win.

I think kitchen has same issue. And maybe even the living room.

But at 5 pounds a pop and a 30 min job I can now just order hinges for every window and get them done.
 
I've had a set of hinges for our bathroom window for ovef 2yrs now, sitting unused as I wasn't confident holding a 1st floor window whilst changing them myself.
Am I reading right that a spray with wd40 and a clean up get it closing properly? (if not a long term fix?)
 
Can anyone do the maths for me on powerline network plugs? I've grabbed some PoE cameras but I have held off buying a PoE switch so I am running an adaptor + 2 powerline plugs (1 each side).
 
I've had a set of hinges for our bathroom window for ovef 2yrs now, sitting unused as I wasn't confident holding a 1st floor window whilst changing them myself.
Am I reading right that a spray with wd40 and a clean up get it closing properly? (if not a long term fix?)

For me yes.
I've done a few of our windows so far and two that had a gap of 3mm or so are now tight. Not really really tight but the gap is 95% closed.
I suspect anither go will finish that. Probably some new seal might also do it, it does go hard over time.

The hearing test, that 413x in effect mentions I had a dramatic reduction in noise from outside once complete.

I cant say exactly which bit fixes the main issue there are a lot of bits that move with these hinges so you need to do them all.
I did with WD40 and some kitchen roll, I am 100% going to do again and use a small brush to assist, with a rag.

Question is for me, is straight to WD40 best or is there something better for cleaning and then use WD40 to relubricate.
I also have wd40 silicon spray, I may try some of that for the end lubrication, as I think its less sticky to attract the dust.
 
Not sure if it's just me but, what's the question? :cry:

For 10 points "Can anyone do the maths for me on powerline network plugs? I've grabbed some PoE cameras but I have held off buying a PoE switch so I am running an adaptor + 2 powerline plugs (1 each side)."
Three bonus questions to follow ;)
 
I've had a set of hinges for our bathroom window for ovef 2yrs now, sitting unused as I wasn't confident holding a 1st floor window whilst changing them myself.
Am I reading right that a spray with wd40 and a clean up get it closing properly? (if not a long term fix?)
What's the worst that can happen? :D
 
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