1930s Semi Refurb - Part 6 of ... (Edition: New Front Door/Porch Insulation)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted User 298457
  • Start date Start date

Deleted User 298457

Deleted User 298457

Hi folks,

Me again - this time front porch has become a priority. It is letting wind in (an exaggeration of draught :)), has some damp, and is single skin so is generally a cold spot.

Challenge 1 of 2:
New front door. I have two door options:
* Endurance
* Hall Mark.

I have a quote for the Endurance at £1300 with £200 fitting. I haven't got a quote for the Hall Mark but they are roughly the same price for the configuration I want. It seems the Hall Mark doors have better thermal efficiency than the solid core. Thoughts welcome.

Challenge 2 of 2:
External insulation. I am thinking I attach a 100mm celotax to the enclosed porch ceiling to help thermal efficiency in the bedroom (future bathroom) above. The bedroom (future bathroom) floor above will be insulated in due course but more insulation shouldn't be an issue? And gives me a "clean" roof for light fixtures/hide wiring.

I am also thinking I may attach 50mm of insulation to the left hand side wall, but I am curious as to how to finish this so it is neat and tidy and not encroaching on the door.

Someone has suggested covering the insulation with marine ply as a decent finish to paint?

Door idea mock-up:
ssiVwYA.png
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Marine ply over solid wall insulation would likely be ok. Any moisture trapped should be able to make its way out slowly. Especially if you stick to breathable paint inside.
You could even go plaster board really in there once the door is sealed.
Marine ply wont really be any more robust over a sustained period if the area is actually damp than plaster board.
If it ends up with dampness your going to want a cement board over the solid wall insulation. Hardibacker type product.
 
I've seen a few houses that have moved the front door forwards/had a secondary door fitted to the arch, but I think I get a lot of benefit from dumping the buggy in the front porch and for storing fire wood. I'm not the biggest fan of how they look either.

So the plan is to insulate the wall that the door is pictured on, and how to make it "good" around the opening to the door.
 
If your leaving the front open then i would say go straight to a cement based board. So create a frame, fill frame with solid and tape it up well
Then add a cement board to that using the frame (made to measure) to suit the size of the boards.

If you use marine ply it might just stay dray enough to avoid absorbing moisture but it may well fail.
If using marine ply outside for a long period it should really be sealed and I am not sure you want to fully seal it. You could but it might trap moisture that way.
 
Frame -> Fill with 100mm PIR -> Cement Board. Gotcha.

Some questions:
1. Do I paint the cement board directly or should I be plastering it?
2. Should the cement board be sealed at the edges to the wall/floor? Caulk vs. Silicone?
3. I presume the wood frame should be off of the floor, should I use spacers to keep it directly off of the wall? Or should be OK?

This space gets some rain splashes but doesn't really get "wet wet".
 
dLockers said:
Frame -> Fill with 100mm PIR -> Cement Board. Gotcha.

Some questions:
1. Do I paint the cement board directly or should I be plastering it?
2. Should the cement board be sealed at the edges to the wall/floor? Caulk vs. Silicone?
3. I presume the wood frame should be off of the floor, should I use spacers to keep it directly off of the wall? Or should be OK?

This space gets some rain splashes but doesn't really get "wet wet".
Click to expand...

I would go with https://www.cladcodecking.co.uk/3-6...36nOWU5rTeDIZ0vHwTZ5UQn6GDrj89F8aAl3LEALw_wcB
Or that type of thing. But its very much taste, IMO that gives a nice look.

Personally I would probably not seal the edges maybe the bottom very edge to ensure water can't just trickle in if it happens to be blown directly into your porch.
Yes just space it directly off the floor and use treated timber. Wouldn't need packing up permanently since you would be mounting to wall anyway.

Others may have alternate views on options however. This is what I would do :)
 
I like the composite cladding but is there any simple way to get a regular traditional plain finish? Can I just directly paint the cement board?

I'm having a few quotes come in for doors - interestingly it looks like the regular GRP foam filled doors are better for thermal performance than the solidors.

Are solidors/solid core doors just for the weighty feel?

Is moving from a 0.8 u value to a 1.6 u significant? I imagine my current door is like 50 u anyway lol.
 
dLockers said:
I like the composite cladding but is there any simple way to get a regular traditional plain finish? Can I just directly paint the cement board?

I'm having a few quotes come in for doors - interestingly it looks like the regular GRP foam filled doors are better for thermal performance than the solidors.

Are solidors/solid core doors just for the weighty feel?

Is moving from a 0.8 u value to a 1.6 u significant? I imagine my current door is like 50 u anyway lol.
Click to expand...

I've not looked if people do a smooth type cement board, probably just need to look for it

In fact hardiplank do smooth
www.jameshardie.co.uk

Hardie® Plank

www.jameshardie.co.uk www.jameshardie.co.uk
 
dLockers said:
I've seen a few houses that have moved the front door forwards/had a secondary door fitted to the arch, but I think I get a lot of benefit from dumping the buggy in the front porch and for storing fire wood. I'm not the biggest fan of how they look either.

So the plan is to insulate the wall that the door is pictured on, and how to make it "good" around the opening to the door.
Click to expand...
Obviously entirely subjective but I think it looks way nicer if you leave the porch ‘open’, I think in your driveway thread you could see your neighbours front doors and some had done it. Your front door looks nicer, maybe one day you’ll show us your back door ;) :eek:
 
Agree closing porch is out of character with house design , maybe need a more crescent shaped glazing on door if that's possible, than mock-up - what examples are there elsewhere on the street.

Is the tiled flooring working well to drain any driven rain ? (maybe I'm confusing with other door threads, but I thought you had some damp on internal wall, so something to research.)
 
jpaul said:
Agree closing porch is out of character with house design , maybe need a more crescent shaped glazing on door if that's possible, than mock-up - what examples are there elsewhere on the street.

Is the tiled flooring working well to drain any driven rain ? (maybe I'm confusing with other door threads, but I thought you had some damp on internal wall, so something to research.)
Click to expand...
That isn't a bad shout actually - I'll take another look at the door designs.

RE: Tiled floor, you are also totally right. I was thinking about this on the drive home from childminders. Maybe I need to tackle door -> floor -> wall. At the moment they are tiles which aren't particularly "angled" to deflect any water...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had front and rear doors by Endurance fitted just over a year ago, quality wasn't the best.

Front door was a finger pull rather than lever. They sent the wrong glazing fitted, door was warped and very difficult to open. The rim around the glazing was a different white to the door face. The front trim was spray painted anthracite and had started to bubble when the bowed door was replaced, they were short of parts so they had painted white ones.

The replacement door was again sent with the wrong glazing which the door fitter had to replace. The glazing trim does not fit well.

There is also a draught from the two latch points on the door, less so with the replacement. Endurance said the door seal isn't as good with a pull close door, lever have a better seal.

The rear door was a stable door. The glazing trim is poor, bowed out in the corners. Water collects on the lower projection at the base of the door which then drips into the kitchen when opened. And being a stable door any slight misalignment makes it very awkward trying to latch the upper and lower together.
 
Right, contrary to the poor feedback above I went with Endurance as I found a decent local supplier. A bit spenny but I hope it solves the major draught issues we have in the kitchen/hall. Also the current rear door is swollen TF and doesn't open in the wet, lol.

3iCkN0s.png


moWTXkY.png


So whilst the Living/Dining/Kitchen debacle wages on, maybe I will try and get the hall 'done' in preparation for the new door...

Edit: £2450 for the doors, £400 for fitting.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think there is bad feedback for most of the big door suppliers. I think it's more related to how they are fitted than the actual product. I'd heard lots of bad feedback for Solidor, but ours was fitted well and is fantastic (so far anyway). So I wouldn't worry too much.
 
Do some serious research before throwing insulation around willy nilly.

From the brick pattern on the front of your house it looks like you have solid walls rather than cavity walls.

Putting up the likes of PIR boards, cement render, cemented mortar joints and plastic paints could cause huge damp issues. People on the internet advising you on how to insulate your specific property generally don't have a clue!

Old houses with solid walls need to be able to breath, hence the use of lime mortar and lime render internally/externally.

Restore, Survey, Understand old buildings

Restore, repair old building,damp problems in old house,home insurance, building survey,building contractor, oak framing, timber and damp survey.
www.heritage-house.org
 
Last edited:
-Ad- said:
Do some serious research before throwing insulation around willy nilly.

From the brick pattern on the front of your house it looks like you have solid walls rather than cavity walls.

Putting up the likes of PIR boards, cement render, cemented mortar joints and plastic paints could cause huge damp issues. People on the internet advising you on how to insulate your specific property generally don't have a clue!

Old houses with solid walls need to be able to breath, hence the use of lime mortar and lime render internally/externally.

Restore, Survey, Understand old buildings

Restore, repair old building,damp problems in old house,home insurance, building survey,building contractor, oak framing, timber and damp survey.
www.heritage-house.org
Click to expand...
It's 1930s and whilst I haven't fully examined the construction, I imagine it's cavity albeit a very small cavity. I understand what you are saying though, I had an 1880s cottage before this.
 
dLockers said:
It's 1930s and whilst I haven't fully examined the construction, I imagine it's cavity albeit a very small cavity. I understand what you are saying though, I had an 1880s cottage before this.
Click to expand...
I'm going by the brick shapes, as the wide edge followed by end followed by wide does point towards solid wall construction. Cavity walls have the bricks just on their wide orientation.

Check the depth of your walls as that's what I had to do, the following guide says somethingsimilar. Your EPC should say also.

www.wiseenergy.co.uk

Do I Have Cavity Walls? - Wise Energy

Check your EPC The simplest way to find out if you have a cavity wall type is to check the Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) of your property, if you have one. Go to www.EPCregister.com and select “Retrieve Report Using Property Address”. Type in your postcode and select your property to...
www.wiseenergy.co.uk www.wiseenergy.co.uk
 
-Ad- said:
I'm going by the brick shapes, as the wide edge followed by end followed by wide does point towards solid wall construction. Cavity walls have the bricks just on their wide orientation.

Check the depth of your walls as that's what I had to do, the following guide says somethingsimilar. Your EPC should say also.

www.wiseenergy.co.uk

Do I Have Cavity Walls? - Wise Energy

Check your EPC The simplest way to find out if you have a cavity wall type is to check the Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) of your property, if you have one. Go to www.EPCregister.com and select “Retrieve Report Using Property Address”. Type in your postcode and select your property to...
www.wiseenergy.co.uk www.wiseenergy.co.uk
Click to expand...
It's only like that at the front - and tbh the front is mostly lathe and plaster/bay window/tiles anyway lol.

Rear is like this:
Tho7Fna.jpg


Wall thickness:
hxIvAMg.jpg


A fraction below the '26cm test' on the Wise Energy website?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom