Just got bay window roof and ceiling replaced but.

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sg0

sg0

sg0

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Hi all. Bay roof and ceiling replaced and wanted to ask on here some of my concerns before builders sign off the job.

Just to give you some idea of the dimensions the replaced ceiling isn't a large area, it's around 4sq meters. My concerns are 1. Float and set was stated in the job but plasterboard was used which was covered with sand coloured plaster material which has dried milky white? Could be the light.

Plasterer instructs me only paint when plaster is dry, should be around 3 days

I don't know anything about plastering (or pretty much nothing about diy) but after some reading it seems float and set is for walls with brick and the work that had actually got done is dot and dab? Can a float and set be done on a bay ceiling?

2. The second issue is there is a curve where old and new ceiling meet. (I'll try to add an image later). Main Ceiling steps down into bay and that step has noticeable curve.

Sorry there is a 3. Is it ok to paint on this sandy type plaster? I thought the brown stuff was the base and the use finishing white plaster next then paint?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
 
1. Most houses use plasterboard everywhere including ceillings.. Our bay ceiling is plasterboard, it's screwed to some wooden battens.. but could have been glue'd in place.. It's very very normal to just use plasterboard and a 'slim' coat IME, you would only use a base and skim coat (i.e. Float and set) if the ceiling had a very irregular surface and you wanted it all smoothed out.. My bay ceiling as mentioned is plasterboard and a skim coat, I can't imagine it not being done that way, plasterboard is a regular surface so doesn't need that first base coat IMO.

2. Transitions are definitely down to your preference, some people like a hard 'step', some might want it rounded off, I prefer 'crisp' edges.

3. Finishing plaster should look like this:

DaXY2yUh.jpg


Note, that's drying out.. but you can see the light areas, it all goes to that very very light pink colour.

In terms of painting, yes, you normally need it to dry out for a few days., then you use some form of base coat (normally watered down emulsion, or you can get special emulsion for fresh plaster)..
 
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When I had some internal plastering done (adding extra insulation to an old house), it started off as a medium brown and dried to an irregularly patterned swirl of colours varying between off-white and very pale brown. I've left it that way as I like the way it looks. It has an organic impression to me. Maybe I'll paint it one day. Maybe not. But the surface is level and smooth and fine to paint on after it dried. Preferably with a base coat first because that would generally be advisable with fresh plaster. You could have it skimmed with a uniform white plaster, but AFAIK there's no need as long as the plaster surface is smooth and level already.
 
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Thank you everyone, really informative and helpful. It just seems like an uber school boy error to think traditional float and set can work on timber joists. Now the million dollar question is the accuracy of the estimate. The work was very expensive, £3660 inc vat
 
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sg0 said:
Thank you everyone, really informative and helpful. It just seems like an uber school boy error to think traditional float and set can work on timber joists. Now the million dollar question is the accuracy of the estimate. The work was very expensive, £3660 inc vat
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Did you agree to the price before they started the work?
 
Float and set does indeed refer to a wet plaster undercoat followed by a finish coat. But plasterboard is perfectly normal for ceilings, and in modern buildings the walls as well. So it's the quote that's wrong really.
Is always insist on float and set for walls though, much more robust finish.
 
Yes, plasterboard is normal. It's the modern replacement of lath & plaster. The plastering job is done on top of the plasterboard in order to allow you to paint the walls.

If you were papering, you could just throw up lining paper on top of the plasterboard then finish paper.
 
Tephnos said:
Yes, plasterboard is normal. It's the modern replacement of lath & plaster. The plastering job is done on top of the plasterboard in order to allow you to paint the walls.

If you were papering, you could just throw up lining paper on top of the plasterboard then finish paper.
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You don't need to skim to be able to paint it and you don't need to paper plasterboard either.
Skim or tape and fill just give slightly different finishes both can be painted or papered.
 
Question did you carry out a survey to find if there were any hazardous materials, specially artex from the 60 and 70s?
You should always do this in old properties.
 
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Mrwong said:
Question did you carry out a survey to find if there were any hazardous materials, specially artex from the 60 and 70s?
You should always do this in old properties.
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Just take precautions regardless. Not that difficult. Mask, overall, double bag and tape, take to local place for disposal.
Did all my time the same way, your local council will give details of precautions to take and where to take the rubbish.
 
robj20 said:
You don't need to skim to be able to paint it and you don't need to paper plasterboard either.
Skim or tape and fill just give slightly different finishes both can be painted or papered.
Click to expand...

Most people prefer smooth finishes if it can be helped though.
 
The only thing I'd say is to give the plaster an extra day once all of it is entirely dry. After that, you'll need to whitewash the plaster with a mixture of thinned out paint and PVA glue. I can't remember the exact mix, but I'm sure you'll find the ratios online. I think you can also buy paint to go on fresh plaster, to prime it before painting it.
 
I'm sure I heard that pva was a bad idea for freshly plastered walls. You need the paint to be absorbed into the plaster for good adhesion.

I recently had to peel paint off a plastered wall that hadn't adhered. When repainting I misted the wall with water so it was damp before rolling a thin first coat of paint onto it.
 
Bug One said:
I'm sure I heard that pva was a bad idea for freshly plastered walls. You need the paint to be absorbed into the plaster for good adhesion.

I recently had to peel paint off a plastered wall that hadn't adhered. When repainting I misted the wall with water so it was damp before rolling a thin first coat of paint onto it.
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PVA is a really bad idea on plaster. All you need is watered down Matt emulsion.
PVA it and you'll likely not get a paint to then go on properly.
If you're papering then it's size you need, IE thinned wallpaper paste.
 
Bug One said:
I'm sure I heard that pva was a bad idea for freshly plastered walls. You need the paint to be absorbed into the plaster for good adhesion.

I recently had to peel paint off a plastered wall that hadn't adhered. When repainting I misted the wall with water so it was damp before rolling a thin first coat of paint onto it.
Click to expand...
robj20 said:
PVA is a really bad idea on plaster. All you need is watered down Matt emulsion.
PVA it and you'll likely not get a paint to then go on properly.
If you're papering then it's size you need, IE thinned wallpaper paste.
Click to expand...
I've just Googled this and you're both right. I swear that's what I was told to do once, but I could be mistaken with something else. :o
 
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