Capping Off Unwanted Electrical Cables

zom247 · 15 Dec 2022 at 18:27

I'm going to change my room thermostat tomorrow. The current one has Live, Switched Live & Neutral. The new one doesn't need neutral or an earth so do I need to cap them off with something or can I just tape it and leave it in the wall?

NoobCannon · 15 Dec 2022 at 18:37

You will need to disconnect the neutral or it will trip the rcd constantly

LuckyBenski · 16 Dec 2022 at 01:28

NoobCannon said:
You will need to disconnect the neutral or it will trip the rcd constantly

How's that? Because it's floating alongside the live?

As for OP typically I've seen earth and neutral left in a terminal block to insulate them, you could use Wagos if you need it smaller. But I'm curious about the above also.

Werewolf · 16 Dec 2022 at 04:12

LuckyBenski said:
How's that? Because it's floating alongside the live?

As for OP typically I've seen earth and neutral left in a terminal block to insulate them, you could use Wagos if you need it smaller. But I'm curious about the above also.

Aye, IIRC it shouldn't trip the RCD if the neutral is properly insulated, as there isn't any current loss you're just effectively turning it from something that needed an incoming power separate from the switching side, to something that is acting like a light switch and going between the "live" and the "switched live" returning to the controller/boiler.

200sols · 16 Dec 2022 at 07:04

Terminate it into a block or preferably a wago. Do not just tape it. It won't trip anything.

Chris Wilson · 16 Dec 2022 at 07:39

You can get heat shrink, glue lined closed caps. I use Raychem ones on race car wiring looms, but I am sure there are much cheaper alternatives than Raychem.

EG:. https://hilltop-products.co.uk/pd-c...t-shrink-end-cap-raychem-te-connectivity.html

K.C. Leblanc · 16 Dec 2022 at 10:35

Chris Wilson said:
You can get heat shrink, glue lined closed caps. I use Raychem ones on race car wiring looms, but I am sure there are much cheaper alternatives than Raychem.

EG:. https://hilltop-products.co.uk/pd-c...t-shrink-end-cap-raychem-te-connectivity.html

Not sure these would be suitable for 240v electrics. I'd use a chocky block or a wago.

zom247 · 16 Dec 2022 at 10:58

Thanks for all the info.

I've seen the wago's but they only seem to be sold in packs and I only need one. However, just to be clear, if I put the wire into one of these and tuck it away in the box it will be fine?

gc123 · 16 Dec 2022 at 10:59

another vote for wago .
or not seriously..........when we moved in years ago the old owner had used sellotape i kid you not shocking (literally)

gc123 · 16 Dec 2022 at 10:59

zom247 said:
Thanks for all the info.

I've seen the wago's but they only seem to be sold in packs and I only need one. However, just to be clear, if I put the wire into one of these and tuck it away in the box it will be fine?

yes fine

zom247 · 16 Dec 2022 at 12:11

Thanks all for your help, job done.

Room temp shows 17.5 on the stat but on a Therm Pro I have it shows 14.5, guess I'll only know if it's working right when heating comes on later.

zom247 · 2 Jan 2023 at 20:12

The heating now seems to be working better since I changed the thermostat, it turns off when the room temp is reached which it never did before. One thing I have noticed though is that the thermostat clicks several times an hour but the timer is off. Is this normal? I don't seem to recall the old analogue thermostat doing this.

BennyC · 2 Jan 2023 at 21:25

It's always handy to have some Wago's at home, you can grab smaller amounts from sellers on eBay. I paid £5 for 10 x dual and £6 for 10 x triple delivered.

I fitted a Tado about a year ago and it came with some rubber sleeves to slip over 1-1.5mm wire to similar effect, terminating any unneeded wires.