Induction Hob Wiring Q

BDEE

BDEE

BDEE

Soldato
Joined
21 Apr 2011
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We have an induction hob. Two rings stopped working so bought a new one. Prior, they all worked fine, which is key to my dilemma….

It is hard wired to a 32A isolator with a single L/N/E wire.

I bought a replacement and was confused when it came with a wiring loom consisting of L(brown) / L (black) / E / N.

Bit odd but saw the old hob had L2 and N2 connectors with nothing on so just went ahead and wired it up. Powered up but only two burners worked…. Odd considering that’s what just happened to the old one.

Now I think this might just be one big huge coincidence and the new unit is faulty, but am I missing anything? I’ve looked at a number of new ones many of which all have this wiring.

I can’t use a 13A plug version as I don’t have anywhere to plug in and will need to use my existing wiring, so that’s not an option.

What is this mysterious second live for and do I HAVE to have it wired up (how!?). Or is it likely to just be a huge coincidence this new hob has the same fault as the old one?

Thanks!
 
Russell Hobbs RH60IH401B

It does indeed, but everything refers to this dual live cable.

I’m reading loads of things about these and starting to think I might have to replace the cable to to socket and use the dual live for both sides to function.

The one coming out is 10 years old so guessing it’s a case of things have changed with the way these things are wired now.
 
Should say in the instructions really. My neff hob can be wired as 1/2 or 3 phase. In my case all 3 L wires just go into the one connector for single phase connection but it’s all detailed in the manual
 
SpellowHouse said:
You wire the +ve supply to the Brown and a short length of jumper to the black - in other words they are both wired to +ve.
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This, I made the same mistake with my hob, and it needed the bridging in place to get all 5 burners/zones working. Guy came out from neff and said he'd had professional fitters make the same mistake so made me feel a bit better.
 
Thanks for suggestions.

Went with a bridge in the end. Replacing the cable was a faff due to the routing behind the plasterboard.

Things I had read advised against a bridge but seems to be totally fine. Nothing has blown up…
 
BDEE said:
Thanks for suggestions.

Went with a bridge in the end. Replacing the cable was a faff due to the routing behind the plasterboard.

Things I had read advised against a bridge but seems to be totally fine. Nothing has blown up…
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I suspect if you read the manual it will tell you to set it up that way. I found it eventually but it certainly wasn't clear!
 
SpellowHouse said:
You wire the +ve supply to the Brown and a short length of jumper to the black - in other words they are both wired to +ve.
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Please don't refer to ANYTHING as positive on house wiring... It's only going to lead to confusion and/or danger at some point.

@BDEE did you use a suitable gauge of wire for the bridge? Presumably similar to what's wired from the wall
 
SpellowHouse said:
If you find that confusing you should be doing something else.
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I'm an electronic engineer and I've taught about sustainable off-grid energy, and done the risk assessments for mass public events using such... Thanks though.

I said it would lead to confusion, not that I was confused. If you find reading my posts confusing you should be reading something else?
 
LuckyBenski said:
I'm an electronic engineer and I've taught about sustainable off-grid energy, and done the risk assessments for mass public events using such... Thanks though.

I said it would lead to confusion, not that I was confused. If you find reading my posts confusing you should be reading something else?
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I spent many many years in BEMS and HVAC. I have done everything from design the software to hardware to install heating systems, lighting systems, ventilation systems, fire systems and even chillers the size of a house. I helped install the HVAC and BEMS systems in the largest military hospital in the Western world. I don't think I have killed anyone calling the brown wire positive. Call them wires what you want, lesprodnic, inglepoos and dooslegrind, most people know the more important rule - you shouldn't touch anything unless the power is off and I really do think that wiring a cooker, everyone will know what I mean by positive.
 
SpellowHouse said:
pent many many years in BEMS and HVAC. I have done everything from design the software to hardware to install heating systems, lighting systems, ventilation systems, fire systems and even chillers the size of a house. I helped install the HVAC and BEMS systems in the largest military hospital in the Western world. I don't think I have killed anyone calling the brown wire positive. Call them wires what you want, lesprodnic, inglepoos and dooslegrind, most people know the more important rule - you shouldn't touch anything unless the power is off and I really do think that wiring a cooker, everyone will know what I mean by positive.
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You're positive about that? ;)
 
BDEE said:
Things I had read advised against a bridge but seems to be totally fine. Nothing has blown up…
Click to expand...

The only thing that can go wrong is if the wire you use for your bridge is to low gauge.

As long as it's the same (or bigger) then the existing live connection you can't go wrong. The resistance will be on the existing live connection, not your bridge, and presumably an electrician would have done that bit.

You possibly could get away with it slightly smaller as well but you'd need to work out the potential draw of whatever that bridge powers, and for that you would need to know what you were doing.
 
bit late now but i bet if you spoke to the manufacturers they would say there should have been a set of proper bridging links included :) look like u shaped pieces of copper
 
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The only thing that can go wrong LOL ... or if you believe a higher bridging gauge than specified would be OK

(no one said ? I thought the shorting of the bridge would inform the hob that greater Amps were available to avoid any throttling, if using all 4 rings)
 
gc123 said:
bit late now but i bet if you spoke to the manufacturers they would say there should have been a set of proper bridging links included :) look like u shaped pieces of copper
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Indeed, you'd probably find it if you look closely at the underside!
 
What rating fuse does the new hob say you require? Having a quick look at the specs of the hob says it's 9kw. If that is indeed the case then you need a larger fuse than 32a, and your cable is quite possibly undersized as well. I suspect that why it is looking for 2 live feeds, to split the load between the hobs (presumably a 1.5 and a 3kw hob on each circuit)
 
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