How do I get this skirting perfect?

Oh also tried out the caulk profiling tools on the window, not too impressed, it doesn't look as good as when just smoothing with my wet finger and seems to create more mess.
 
Zefan said:
@danlightbulb the idea isn't to get a tiny tiny bead inside the gap, but to place it on top and squish it down inside. Sure you might end up with some cleaning up required but it should be minimal if it's applied with care.
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Yeah probably should have done that before I painted then I guess. Wasn't sure what order to do things in exactly when it comes to skirting.
 
How do you reckon I sort this gap out? Its the last job then room is finished.

Its a gap where new door moulding has been fitted but they didn't fit it all the way to the wall for some reason. It was hidden by a crappy bit of floor beading profile before. Gap varies in width between 5-10mm.

W8LqTrW.png


WD8mjSt.png



Notice also the plug socket has a slight gap around it. Nothing flat in this house.
 
danlightbulb said:
It might I know but theres no way to get a caulk bead thin enough. It was almost hairline.
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Surely you put down the thinnest bead you can, push it into cracks and wipe away all the excess you can leaving you with the same crisp edge you have now, except as pointed out caulk should expand and flex with natural expansion and shrinkage.
 
danlightbulb said:
How do you reckon I sort this gap out? Its the last job then room is finished.

Its a gap where new door moulding has been fitted but they didn't fit it all the way to the wall for some reason. It was hidden by a crappy bit of floor beading profile before. Gap varies in width between 5-10mm.

W8LqTrW.png


WD8mjSt.png



Notice also the plug socket has a slight gap around it. Nothing flat in this house.
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That last picture is just shoddy workmanship that architrave should be flush to the wall.
 
Doobedoo said:
Surely you put down the thinnest bead you can, push it into cracks and wipe away all the excess you can leaving you with the same crisp edge you have now, except as pointed out caulk should expand and flex with natural expansion and shrinkage.
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Yep completely agree, but if I do it now I risk marking the paint. Next time I'll do that job first.
 
Here's another little conundrum for you. Coving up on the ceiling shown here, Ive tired to get a nice neat cut in as you can see its not too bad. The eagle eyed amongst you might spot a roller smudge on the left which I need to correct just haven't got around to it yet.

i9Joa0B.png


But here is the issue. Look at it from a different angle and you can see the wall is not straight and the gap has been filled.

kvAH0xh.png


You can see where the straight edge of the coving is, you can see where the wall is, you can see where the filler is.

Now, as you can see I have painted the filler white and the wall grey, which makes the line appear curved from this angle. Should I have extended the grey paint onto the filler to get the coving to appear straight, or not?
 
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danlightbulb said:
Im guessing they didn't do that because the moulding was not wide enough. So I want to insert some strip wood into the gap I think, then fill it level and paint.
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It looked to me like they just placed it in front of the skirting rather than cutting the skirting to get the moulding to fit flush to the wall?
 
danlightbulb said:
Here's another little conundrum for you. Coving up on the ceiling shown here, Ive tired to get a nice neat cut in as you can see its not too bad. The eagle eyed amongst you might spot a roller smudge on the left which I need to correct just haven't got around to it yet.

i9Joa0B.png


But here is the issue. Look at it from a different angle and you can see the wall is not straight and the gap has been filled.

kvAH0xh.png


You can see where the straight edge of the coving is, you can see where the wall is, you can see where the filler is.

Now, as you can see I have painted the filler white and the wall grey, which makes the line appear curved from this angle. Should I have extended the grey paint onto the filler to get the coving to appear straight, or not?
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Paint the bottom edge of the coving with wall colour paint IMO
Its acceptable to do it either colour and where there are gaps filled it will stand out less.

Re the architrave, really, its remove it, cut the skirt so it will slot in and refit
Multitool for cutting the skirting in place
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Re the architrave, really, its remove it, cut the skirt so it will slot in and refit
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The reason Im reluctant to do that is because it would need to be moved towards the wall by 10mm+, and this may mean its not wide enough to then cover the front side of door jamb. Plus, it has been mitred at the top as you can see so I would need to redo the whole door moulding.


8Xq4fbO.png
 
danlightbulb said:
redo the whole door moulding.
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Either redo the whole door or buy wider trim, that's the best way to get it looking good. It's not that hard to do either.

That's pretty shoddy workmanship on those walls, wonder how much those builders were paid to do that.
 
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sigma said:
Either redo the whole door or buy wider trim, that's the best way to get it looking good. It's not that hard to do either.
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Yeah thing is that the whole house needs doing really, and if Im going to do it it would be better doing all the skirting and door frames and doors in the whole house. Might do that eventually but for now I just need to make it reasonable.
 
danlightbulb said:
Yeah thing is that the whole house needs doing really, and if Im going to do it it would be better doing all the skirting and door frames and doors in the whole house. Might do that eventually but for now I just need to make it reasonable.
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Put a plastic strip in there? Any filler or wood is going to cause you a lot more work when you re-do it properly.
 
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