What wood do I need?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted User 298457
  • Start date Start date

Deleted User 298457

Deleted User 298457

Hi folks,

I have received the go-ahead to re-do my fence by putting the panels on the neighbours wall. I think the best way to secure them (without taking the pee and putting post plates all on their side) is to essentially replace these posts and either:

1) Put 2 new lengths
2) Get a 100mm x 100mm fence post and cut out 50mm so it sits nicely on their side.

Diagram showing what I mean:

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4ozpJd6.jpg


Some follow-up Qs:
a) I had a quick look at Wickes and most of the treated wood doesn't seem intended for use as fence posts/outdoor; will it need loads of maintenance to stop it rotting?
b) Should I "space" the post away from the wall?
c) Should I lift the panel off of the brick slightly?

Thank you!
 
Pressure treated posts. You could bolt it to the wall but depends if its in solid. I wouldn't want to lose any space on my side, so you can still (?) get a car down it

Id use chemical anchors into the brickwork if it's very sound /well fixed.
 
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If you zoom in you can see the posts are currently bolted in, so I could just affix a 75mm post on their side and achieve option 2. However the posts are a bit tired.

Pressure treated posts only come in 75 or 100 from what I can tell, so that'd mean cutting it as per option 1.
 
I would do the double post method (option 2) as cutting into the post will create a weak point for the wind hitting the fence and causing it to break at that point.
 
I would also bolt them into the wall on your side and also bolt the smaller post on your neighbours side into the post on your side at top and bottom.

Also, have post ½ above the ground on your side and the wall on their side so standing water doesn't get in as easy.
 
The last, and more expensive option, is to core drill into the top of the wall and concrete in some glavanised 50mm square tube as fence posts

FS... I meant to edit my posts, not add more :o
 
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Spot on cheers lads. I'll just grab the thinnest fence posts I can find as total thickness then will be 100mm+.

Richie said:
The last, and more expensive option, is to core drill into the top of the wall and concrete in some glavanised 50mm square tube as fence posts

FS... I meant to edit my posts, not add more :o
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Agreed, it's not my land though hence not wanting to take the ****. Just want something less ugly than now!

The front drive has the concrete posts in between the wall, so works exactly as you said.
 
Do you think I need to space the bit that is bolted to the wall, away from the wall? It sits right up on the brick ATM.
 
Option 2 looks best to me, something like this doubled up and cut to the two lengths required:

www.rjmeakerfencing.co.uk

Timber Fence posts

Treated Softwood Fence post (100mm x 50mm) All our timber posts have been sourced from a reputable company and have been pressure treated for longevity in natural colour & available in a broad range of sizes. (plus vat) 1.8mt £5.07 2.1mt £5.93 2.4mt £6.77 3.0mt...
www.rjmeakerfencing.co.uk www.rjmeakerfencing.co.uk

Pressure treated rather than dipped, and treat any cut ends.

You could pack a few spacers in between the post and wall to allow a bit of air to circulate, not sure that would be needed however.
 
Are you set on lap panels? How about notched arris rail posts, arris rails and some feather edge boards? Then you arent going on nextdoors side at all. If you feel there isn’t enough strength you could sister a length of 3x2 treated onto each post, although you have a 600mm wall you'll be bolting too which is just like sinking a post 600mm and it’s only a 4ft fence on your neighbour side.

But if you go lap panels there are some nice decorative/contemporary ones out there with trellis built on. Have a look at Grange fencing for some ideas
 
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Berger said:
Feather edge does look more attractive & you could do it all as a single run facing you….
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I really want to "seal" it to their wall to stop any rubbish coming down the back, but yeah I take your point.
 
You could do hit and miss type fencing and do similar to what I did here at my previous house. The posts were already rebated into the brick pier.

I chemically anchored the posts in.

If you don't want to rebate in could just face fix to the front of the brickwork.

Fence https://imgur.com/a/oEhuCfd
 
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Seems anything other than 75x75 or 100x100 is hard to find. Homebase have 50x50 but collection only... I guess I could cut the 2.4s down in the car park? Yes...I could...hmm....
 
dLockers said:
Seems anything other than 75x75 or 100x100 is hard to find. Homebase have 50x50 but collection only... I guess I could cut the 2.4s down in the car park? Yes...I could...hmm....
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Just do this… I’ve had to go to wickes for opening time, buy some new floor to replace damaged floorboards and then cut it down in the car park to fit in the car… then rush home and fit it before the carpet guys came….

Wouldn’t recommend if it’s residential! A circular saw makes quite a lot of noise bouncing off the front of the buildings.
 
Dont you have a local timber yard or builders merchants that will deliver?

Do you think 50x50 will be meaty enough? If you are going to sister I thought you would go 100x50 or at the very least 75x50

You could make your own H slotted posts which would get your panels flush with the wall with a nicer fixing into the panels.

There are quite a few options but as usual it comes down to cost.

Also whatever you do remember the gate may need tweaking if you want it opening fully.
 
I've not found anywhere that does pressurised stuff locally unfortunately. The current setup has been there a decade or so, and that's just 70mmx40mm.

I did spot some 100x50 which I'd prefer but it wasn't available locally.
 
Shame you cant get a delivery. You could have gone beefy timbers then gone higher with your panels/boards. It looks like nextdoor get a good view into your garden.

You could go 3x3 posts fixed to the wall, fix 2-3 rails to the face of the posts nextdoor then board or featheredge the inbetween the posts. You'll be flush to the wall with the boards. You could go higher than the original panels.

You may be able to tell, Im not a fan of lap panels.
 
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