1930s Semi Refurb - Part 6 of ... (Edition: New Front Door/Porch Insulation)

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Bah, that depth and the constrcution makes it look like a solid wall. Cavity walls are usually circa 270-280mm from when I've been viewing houses all over the shop.

Harder to tell at the rear with the cement pebbledash, unless there has been an extension or re-render.
 
9" = 228.6mm.

Front of the house is bare brick, inside will have the lath and plaster (25mm ish) or a render direct on the internal brick (circa 20mm).

That would give around 250-250mm total thickness so bang on for solid wall with 9" brick.
 
Interesting - I did just pick up my survey and the chap did say solid wall. Must have missed it - I assumed it was slightly too thick.

Regarding "breathability" - I am very conscious about air bricks etc. and have had the drive dropped to 2 full course below DPC. Presumably this isn't like my old cottage though where it is lime mortar? That stuff used to flake off like nobodies business.

I guess it could be why the hallway is suffering though, as the porch has been painted and the interior is wallpaper. That is half brick thick (4.5") so very susceptible.
 
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Guys,

I have removed internal architrave now and can see the door aperture is precisely 92.5mm. The new door on order is 91mm. Does that seem about right?
 
The doors are in. 2 days later than expected (the original fitter had a car crash and broke his collar bone apparently. Mustn't have been his fault because he is obliging doctors orders and having 8 weeks out :)). New fitter seemed like a top bloke. Came in a van with artisanal sign writing of his glass business.

7vEkbLh.jpg

1. I need to get rid of that god damn fibre optic cable. I am hoping the hole they drilled to get it into the house is big enough for me to squeeze the connector through, otherwise I guess I am paying some big money to have it re-terminated in the attic...
2. I need to build out the wall either side of the door and insulate, as it is single skin here.
3. New door bell? That is what the wire at the top of the door is.
4. Tile the walls either side?
5. Replace the battered front bricks?
6. Replace the clay tile floor
7. Get my outdoor plug fitted in the porch so I can granny charge the EV. I'll probably run the cable for a future car charger too.

IqJxngx.jpg

1. All good really. Although despite numerous backwards and forwards they have given me the wrong door mechanism so that when the door is shut, you need a key to unlock it.


-------------------


So this is what I am left with around the front door.

TP2Xbv0.jpg


3mLgdOj.jpg


I assume that is cement board with "block" style detail? Never seen them before. I am thinking I take off as much as I can and then framing it out to add in some 100mm PIR, just on the single skins where it makes sense to. I guess I leave an air gap between the PIR and the brick once it is exposed?
 
Some sort of cladding? Weird.

For insulating, if you are leaving the porch open just use external wall insulation which doesn't need any battens, just stick directly to the brick. I guess ideally you would take off any material back to the brick, probably easier said than done though.
 
Any thoughts chaps?

Going to bite the bullet soon enough and frame the wall, whack some 100mm PIR in and overboard. I may then try my hand at rendering...........RIP.
 
dLockers said:
Yeah I keep sleeping on this. I even considered tile... but just not 100% sure it'll go. Need to find someone who has already done it!
Click to expand...

Other option is ply. Make sure its fully sealed on all edges and masonry paint it. Won't look any different to rendered if you masonry paint it.
You can take photos of the screws placement before you fill and paint so at least its easy to get back off should you need to.
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Other option is ply. Make sure its fully sealed on all edges and masonry paint it. Won't look any different to rendered if you masonry paint it.
You can take photos of the screws placement before you fill and paint so at least its easy to get back off should you need to.
Click to expand...
That seems more achievable for my DIY skills... and provides a good surface to mount the door bell and some sockets for the EV.

Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
How did they attach those edging trims btw?
Ideally you want them off so you can tidy it all up and then reattach.
Click to expand...
I am hoping with sealant, I was a bit cross he did that as I told him specifically not to mess around with second fix on the front door.

I am planning a fit like this:

pJBnvaL.png


So task will be:
1. Chisel off current rubbish
2. Remove door trim
3. Baton
4. PIR - leaving an air gap of 20mm between the wall and the PIR
5. Cover in ply
 
Don't waste your time with battening out, just use this direct on the existing surface/or brick behind it -

Kooltherm K5 External Wall Board

Kingspan Kooltherm K5 External Wall Board is a premium performance insulation used for external insulation on masonry walls
www.kingspan.com www.kingspan.com

Make sure to insulate the reveal back towards the door so you eliminate bridging, might have to use thinner insulation on the reveal part. Yeah take off those strips he's put on.

Then render and finish to match the rest of it. Ply as a finished surface is a bodge tbh
 
I could definitely do that, but I don't back myself with my rendering skills :D
 
Guys,

Bumping this again - is there any new profound advice on this? Getting tired of looking at the gash finish around my nice new door!

Is there anywhere to actually buy this external wall insulation from?

I also saw this system, but again, seems unobtainium from usual places?
fabslip.co.uk

Fab-Therm Brick Slip Cladding System

Fab-Therm offers a huge number of advantages over other brick cladding systems; Maintains the natural, traditional appearance and beauty of brick in our buildings. Available in a range of thicknesses from 25mm. Accepts any of our slips advertised on our website. 1200x600mm sheet size. Complete...
fabslip.co.uk fabslip.co.uk
 
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