Wet plaster vs (Dry) plasterboard

jonneymendoza said:
Plaster itself.

Tbh I noticed it coming off soo easily when I was Stripping the wallpaper
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If it's coming off easy you should not /don't want to get that skimmed, if the current isn't bonded correctly you should take it all off.


If you have solid wall construction (ie no cavity) you should be aware that modern methods eg dot and dab or gypsum based plaster and hardwall aren't breathable and can cause damp problems. You should read up on lime based plaster products and take a view on this, info on the Internet will be better than I can offer.
 
Participant said:
If the plaster has blown in lots of places (tap it and see if it sounds hollow) then you'll ideally either remove it all, cover it in SBR primer, then apply hardwall and skim, or if most of the plaster is ok, patch and skim.

I'd be tempted in that situation though to overboard (mechanical fixings as well as dot and dab) and replace / adjust the boxes 8f necessary, then you can get away with taping and filling the joins, priming, and painting, rather than skimming the whole lot.

If it was me though, I'd strip it all back to brick with the SDS drill and plaster, but I just like plaster.
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Yes it's blown on lots of places. No point jute) patching it up
 
dLockers said:
Do your homework as someone suggested then -- solid wall construction should be allowed to breath one way or another.
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Drywall/plaster boards have a gap between the wall and the plaster board that should make it breathable.

Its not completely flush as per what I said in my original post and the worry that my sockets where too deep into the wall
 
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Just to note. Only two rooms are being replaster at the moment. The two bedrooms upstairs.

I'm gunna see how they go and if I made a mistake or don't like the overall finish etc, I'll use wet plaster in the remaining areas of my house get a proper plaster artist on the job
 
As you are going to remove the existing plaster and your walls are fairly dry you can fit this(you will lose a bit of space obviously, but you only need to use it on the external wall)


Use this to stick it on(don't use drywall adhesive or expanding foam), done this a few times and works, its strong stuff.

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jonneymendoza said:
Drywall/plaster boards have a gap between the wall and the plaster board that should make it breathable.

Its not completely flush as per what I said in my original post and the worry that my sockets where too deep into the wall
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By using insulated plasterboard you are slowing down any passage of moisture into the wall and also reducing the chance of warm moist air causing interstitial condensation, no need to worry about an air gap or whether its breathable.
 
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gingergundog said:
As you are going to remove the existing plaster and your walls are fairly dry you can fit this(you will lose a bit of space obviously, but you only need to use it on the external wall)


Use this to stick it on(don't use drywall adhesive or expanding foam), done this a few times and works, its strong stuff.

www.everbuild.co.uk

Sika UK Distribution | Sika UK

Discover Sika UK Distribution's comprehensive range of high-quality building solutions for the trade. Whether you need sealants, adhesives, building chemicals, landscaping solutions, or more, we have the answer.
www.everbuild.co.uk www.everbuild.co.uk



By using insulated plasterboard you are slowing down any passage of moisture into the wall and also reducing the chance of warm moist air causing interstitial condensation, no need to worry about an air gap.
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Ok good to know, thanks. the two rooms, most of the wall is internal or on a party wall.

The only wall thats external is around the bay window(which i will have to eventually rip out and change as well at some point
 
jonneymendoza said:
Ok good to know, thanks. the two rooms, most of the wall is internal or on a party wall.

The only wall thats external is around the bay window(which i will have to eventually rip out and change as well at some point
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That makes it easier, just dot & dab internal/party walls with regular plasterboard then use the insulated plasterboard on the bay window wall. If you are changing the bay window later you could fit the insulated plasterboard and just leave the reveals. When you have the new window in you can fit insulated board to the reveals. Although saying that it would be better to do the window first then do the whole lot in one go.
 
gingergundog said:
That makes it easier, just dot & dab internal/party walls with regular plasterboard then use the insulated plasterboard on the bay window wall. If you are changing the bay window later you could fit the insulated plasterboard and just leave the reveals. When you have the new window in you can fit insulated board to the reveals. Although saying that it would be better to do the window first then do the whole lot in one go.
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Yea the ordering of things is a bit weird. If money wasn't a problem I would do the whole lot in one go.

I am currently just putting all the top floor cieling back and plaster only two rooms (I have another bedroom and a bathroom that I want to completely redo in the future) plus downstairs needs doing up too.

My main priority is to get two rooms livable so that I can move in ASAP and do other parts of the house (3 bedroom 100sqm semi 1920s ish) whilst living there and do it bit by bit.
 
jonneymendoza said:
Yea the ordering of things is a bit weird. If money wasn't a problem I would do the whole lot in one go.

I am currently just putting all the top floor cieling back and plaster only two rooms (I have another bedroom and a bathroom that I want to completely redo in the future) plus downstairs needs doing up too.

My main priority is to get two rooms livable so that I can move in ASAP and do other parts of the house (3 bedroom 100sqm semi 1920s ish) whilst living there and do it bit by bit.
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A trying too hard to be funny/educational video

 
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