Road Cycling

So, I had an off a couple of weekends ago - no one else involved, just a greasy road an a roundabout! Even with gatorskins on and taking the roundabout at the same speed and angle as i have done >100 times before as soon as I started leaning right my back wheel went out from underneath me and I hit the deck hard at about 20mph

Must have been greasy as I had no rips in any of my clothes, just a lot of bruising!

Anyway bike seemed to be ok - looked like it took the hit on my right shifter, right pedal and rear thru axle. Been back out on the bike a few time since - all seemed ok.

However, I've just looked ta my Garmin data this morning - and my LR power balance is way out of wack (and overall power I think is wrong too) - balance today was 67L/33R and avg power of 155w (even unfit I normally put out ~200w on a ride and my HR was definitely up at that level)

I'm now thinking that the knock it took may have damaged the right pedal, hence the skewed readings? I will try a calibration later to see if that helps - but has anyone had anything similar before?
 
hellarda said:
Even with gatorskins on
Click to expand...
Not really anything to help you, but I guess I want to check my own understanding... as this is stated like these tyres, made to be hard and tough, should have better grip? I've always assumed it to be more like F1 where a softer tyre would have better grip than a hard one?
 
AndyCr15 said:
Not really anything to help you, but I guess I want to check my own understanding... as this is stated like these tyres, made to be hard and tough, should have better grip? I've always assumed it to be more like F1 where a softer tyre would have better grip than a hard one?
Click to expand...

Quite possibly - although they are sold as "designed to perform well in wet/wintery conditions" which to me would imply grippy... But to the touch they feel less sticky than my GP5000's.

An interesting point though
 
Musty Pie said:
Also after some advise from you all. Ive got the opportunity to buy a "garage clearout find" from a friend of a friend who's dad passed away recently.

From what I can make out of the pictures he supplied, its a Cannondale System Six (2007) Ultegra spec with SI chain set.

I already have my bike, but the reason for the interest on this one is to have a whole "project" bike to learn maintenance on as well as a spare for our little "club chub" riding group should anyone be bike-less for whatever reason or want to bring a friend along on a ride.

Based on the images, its going to need a fait bit of work, but wondered what you all thought for the price?
Click to expand...

I just bought a CAAD 9 with 105, the last alu frame they made in the USA. I paid £350. The previous owner had hardly used it in the past decade and still has its original reflectors and bell on! It's a beautiful frame which I am going to update with 11-speed and some nice wheels. I may get carried away and put Chorus on it or something, but trying to keep whole project below £1k.
 
Last edited:
AndyCr15 said:
True... but that's not the claim tbf :p
Click to expand...
Will explain my nerdy thinking. 18mph to 19.3mph is going to need ~30w extra assuming all other variables remain the same. You put out 52w less at the pedals. You'd need to save the equivalent of 82w in drivetrain efficiency to increase speed over that segment while reducing watts. 100w wasn't a bad guess! :D
 
AndyCr15 said:
Not really anything to help you, but I guess I want to check my own understanding... as this is stated like these tyres, made to be hard and tough, should have better grip? I've always assumed it to be more like F1 where a softer tyre would have better grip than a hard one?
Click to expand...
Gatorskins have often been referred to as skater skins.
I think they're generally reknowned for puncture proof-ness rather than grip.
 
One More Solo said:
Will explain my nerdy thinking. 18mph to 19.3mph is going to need ~30w extra assuming all other variables remain the same. You put out 52w less at the pedals. You'd need to save the equivalent of 82w in drivetrain efficiency to increase speed over that segment while reducing watts. 100w wasn't a bad guess! :D
Click to expand...
I get your logic. Makes sense. I'm probably taking this far more seriously than I should, but checking myWindsock... the windspeed is kind of a crosswind, slight tailwind, starting at 3.0m/s and dropping to around 0.4m/s around halfway into the segment. I'm not sure how strong that feels tbh? A month ago it was a headwind of 1.0m/s. On both occasions, I was second wheel. So yes, definitely help from the wind.
 
Lethal` said:
I've been trying to tell myself this. Feel slow in recent months and I know the rear bearings feel screwed.... Cero wheels I got in May :/

Cranks seem to keep loosening too.. bit weird. Bottom bracket feels fine when I pull them out but I'll tighten the cranks up and then a month or so later I can feel lateral play.

#bikegettingtooold
Click to expand...
my Boardman gravel wheels - rear has gone already, although think they have far harsher conditions than your Cero have experienced!
 
hellarda said:
So, I had an off a couple of weekends ago - no one else involved, just a greasy road an a roundabout! Even with gatorskins on and taking the roundabout at the same speed and angle as i have done >100 times before as soon as I started leaning right my back wheel went out from underneath me and I hit the deck hard at about 20mph

Must have been greasy as I had no rips in any of my clothes, just a lot of bruising!

Anyway bike seemed to be ok - looked like it took the hit on my right shifter, right pedal and rear thru axle. Been back out on the bike a few time since - all seemed ok.

However, I've just looked ta my Garmin data this morning - and my LR power balance is way out of wack (and overall power I think is wrong too) - balance today was 67L/33R and avg power of 155w (even unfit I normally put out ~200w on a ride and my HR was definitely up at that level)

I'm now thinking that the knock it took may have damaged the right pedal, hence the skewed readings? I will try a calibration later to see if that helps - but has anyone had anything similar before?
Click to expand...
I had two offs in 3 days last week, one when racing, not exactly going fast, but it was still early and had been cold overnight, so greasy surface in a shaded corner, skidded off, destroyed my skinsuit and took off some serious skin on my thigh, then 2 days later on my commute, going 6mph on the gravel bike and just front wheel completely went! A corner i've done like you 100s of times. went by the next day when it was a bit wetter in my polarised sunglasses and could see the oil on the surface. 2nd one hurt more than the first! luckily no damage apart from a hole in my knee on my bib longs. do a calibration, if you've got garmin pedals you should be doing them every ride really!
 
SoliD said:
my Boardman gravel wheels - rear has gone already, although think they have far harsher conditions than your Cero have experienced!
Click to expand...
Yeah. Last year was pretty dry really so I've barely even rode in the wet.. but most likely it's because the axle was literally loose for some time. I realised when gearing went a bit off... I checked and cassette/freehub was moving side to side :(
 
@Roady Are you still looking for a crankset? ~£90 for 53/39 https://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycl...ings/shimano-105-r7000-chainset/11746895.html

Some decent Shimano deals at Merlin, including ~£38 for most 105 cassettes.

Winter feeling again this week, just at the time I was thinking about finally setting up my VEL 50mm wheels bought months ago, as March tends to be when I try wean myself off the turbo and begin the "outdoor season!"

Saw there was an update for the free MyWhoosh turbo app the other day, quite graphics intensive, previous update around Xmas for app prevented paired up turbo from reading power to move avatar in-game. :eek: :cry:
 
Lethal` said:
Definitely don't bother going for Ultegra. No real difference besides a marginal weight saving and it looks different when clean (less shiny)
Click to expand...

Yeah, i went the same with the Sram Rival vs the Force. Seems to be an extra £50 for a minor weight saving. Just doesn't seem worth it for normal people.
 
Martynt74 said:
Yeah, i went the same with the Sram Rival vs the Force. Seems to be an extra £50 for a minor weight saving. Just doesn't seem worth it for normal people.
Click to expand...
Current Rival shifters are nicer anyway!

From memory, the ‘bang for buck’ weight savings in a Rival groupset are the Red cranks, Force cassette and possibly the Force RD. And the Force chain if being pedantic.
 
Shaz]sigh[ said:
Current Rival shifters are nicer anyway!

From memory, the ‘bang for buck’ weight savings in a Rival groupset are the Red cranks, Force cassette and possibly the Force RD. And the Force chain if being pedantic.
Click to expand...

Well i'm Force for all but the cassette and crankset. I do seem to hear better things of the Rival Shifters though.

I don't think the Rival RD has the clutch either which seemed like a bonus.
 
Last edited:
Martynt74 said:
Well i'm Force for all but the cassette and crankset. I do seem to hear better things of the Rival Shifters though.

I don't think the Rival RD has the clutch either which seemed like a bonus.
Click to expand...
Don’t think you can go wrong really with a blend of any of the AXS elements, think people just like the Rival shifters as they are slightly smaller. I think the newer FDs are supposed to play nicer too but just make sure you have a chain catcher.

My bike was full Rival but swapped to Red cranks - Rival cranks are like an anchor, and plastic. Will be going Force cassette once I’ve killed this but might take a while!
 
I tried to do a search, so dont hang me for asking!

Whats everyones preferred lube choice? Im just starting to read up / watch on Zero friction cycling test results, ive just ordered some Tru Tension Banana slip Tungsten stuff to try, wondered what everyone else was using?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom