Combi Boiler coming on when cold water tap is run

Soldato
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Looking online the advice is to open all taps and let any air pockets out, I've done this but it's still happening. I've also seen it mention that it could be a deadleg, this has only just started to occur so not sure if that is the cause. We knocked the water off to take off a radiator but haven't altered any pipework.

Any ideas before I have to call an engineer out? :(
 
I had some thing similar when flushing the toilet. Think the plumber fitted something called a shock arrester which sorted the issue.
 
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Thanks for the replies. Hopefully it's not a dying pump, the boiler is only 2 years old. I'll investigate the non-return valve. I've seen that mentioned a lot online, was hoping there was a DIY fix.
 
Thanks for the replies. Hopefully it's not a dying pump, the boiler is only 2 years old. I'll investigate the non-return valve. I've seen that mentioned a lot online, was hoping there was a DIY fix.
What brand is it? Ours is Baxi and they sent somebody out pretty quick with no charge for parts & labour.

Maybe worth checking whoever it is tbh before calling a plumber.
 
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I had a similar issue when I drained my system a few years ago. It turned out to be a dead leg on the hot water going to the washing machine (the machine only uses cold). I bled the dead leg until water started coming through again and that fixed it.
 
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What he means is when you draw cold water from anywhere, if the mixer shower is faulty(ie passing from hot to cold) it will draw water from the hot supply which will fire the boiler.
No it won't, as the pressure on the hot will always be less than the cold that is the supply. Unless the hot is boosted in some other way independent of the cold supply that feeds the combi, and that would be very rare. I've not seen anything like that in 30yrs.

As said earlier in the thread, the issue the OP is experiencing is most likely caused by an air pocket trapped in the pipework, this could be from an old capped pipe, or even something like a tap that's not been used in a long time in an unused bathroom for example.

Also as mentioned earlier, a typical fix if the air lock cannot be removed, is to fit a non return valve on the cold inlet to the boiler, this will stop the water pressure relaxing and then compressing (the air pocket) which causes the boiler flow switch to operate.

You also need to be aware that in most cases doing this will invalidate the boiler warranty as the volume for natural expansion is severely reduced, and can exert excessive pressure on the boiler hydraulics through normal heating (of the DHW) operation.

In certain circumstances, and Baxi is one, they will allow you to fit an expansion vessel with the non return valve, to absorb the expansion, and keep the warranty status on the boiler.
 
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Thanks for the indepth replies, I've got a heating engineer coming out today to have a look. He's mentioned fitting a non-return valve.

We have just had some old pipes capped off, I assume this could be the cause, they've been reburied under floorboards. How do you get rid of a deadleg if they have been capped?
 
Thanks for the indepth replies, I've got a heating engineer coming out today to have a look. He's mentioned fitting a non-return valve.

Even if your boiler is outside warranty, make sure the non return valve is fitted to the boiler manufacturers requirements. You don't want to cause the boiler hydraulics to pop ;)
 
You'll probably need to fit a pressure reducing valve on the cold main to the boiler and set it at about 3 bar max. Happened at my old home, non return valves and shock arrestors didn't work. supply pressure was too great coming in.
 
You'll probably need to fit a pressure reducing valve on the cold main to the boiler and set it at about 3 bar max. Happened at my old home, non return valves and shock arrestors didn't work. supply pressure was too great coming in.

If anything, high pressure would stop the OP's problem. Where lowering it or regulating it would make matters worse.
 
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