Composite door question

MattTheTall77 said:
Yeah the fitter didn't adjust the door properly given it's not making a seal on the frame. They're back at some point in the next couple of weeks, I don't hold out much hope >.<

The glazing was Endurances fault, as is the trim issue around the glazing, which is compounded by the fitter fluffing up having to refit the correct glazing. Not sure I want the fitter trying to fix the rear door trim as it's 9 panes, it'll be one of those jobs it doesn't go back together again haha.

Edit: rear door is fine at the moment, no draughts. There were after first install and they adjusted the alignment.
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Yeah I think their options sheets are bit mucked up. I ordered a straight spindle for the rear door and it has a split spindle and the wrong colour screws; the order form clearly stated this.

And the front door, I had asked and was rejected to have tudor rose with obscure backing glass as it wasn't available. The door was delivered with obscure backing glass! This was obviously a bonus in my eyes but wrong in reality.
 
Crikey those hinges are really bad! I have a full seal all the way around mine!
 
Wegason said:
I'd be calling the installers back round to sort it out, that is unacceptable.
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They are at some point, eventually! I think the retailer I purchased from used a sub contractor to fit it. He was supposed to come twice in January, both times the fitter didn't appear. Waiting to hear from the retailer when the next date may be.
 
tonys said:
We've just had a composite door fitted and have the same problem but ours has less movement at the top than the bottom. The only trouble is we need the bottom to be a good seal as the garden floods on occasion so got the fitter coming back tomorrow to check it out.
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Either hooks not set tight enough or its out of twist?

Stand outside and pull the door to near the brush pile and look up and down to check that the door closes parallel against the frame, I’ve seen them where they are touching at the top but 10mm away still at the bottom or vice versa, one of the biggest things people don’t do when installing.
 
The fitter rehung the door which made it tighter but made the handle stiff to close. Also we got flooded last August and the water just came straight under the cill as if it hadn't been sealed well. There again it came through all the doors.
 
Well the front door was replaced again last week. Correct glazing this time, although they sent the wrong letterbox so the fitter had to switch it over. This time they also changed the frame, and this is where the big difference is. On the original frame the weather strip that the face of the door made contact (or should have) was about 1-2mm thick. The new one is about 8mm so the door actually makes a seal now. Also the brushed inner strips on the inside of the frame, on the original there was one, but on this there are two.

I think because my doors were made during Covid lockdown with material supply issues they skimped, a lot. The first door had bubbling on the exterior trim where they had spray painted white trim grey.

As for the back door, the door fitter did have a new cassette for the 9 pane upper half, but said he wasn't sure it would make much difference, would be difficult, and could rattle as he didn't have any tape for the cross sections.

As for the leak, back and forth with Endurance about that.

With light shining towards the gap you can see from outside the issue:
DIGMN02.jpg


Excuse the dead spider:

jopyGVE.jpg


A5yFxts.jpg


From the last email before I compiled the photos Endurance were saying "Technical have confirmed the strip should be enough so its sits behind the rebate of the frame, if there are gaps showing when the door is shut the gasket is too short"

So I think they may say the above is ok even though it's not weatherproof, will see what the response is.
 
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