Road Cycling

So a couple of months back my 'outdoor' club I ride with announced doing a ride up 'The Tumble' - https://www.strava.com/segments/12315655

Obviously, I was looking forward to this! I'd ridden it a couple of times before one of which (in 2017) I'd missed a 24 minute goal by 19 seconds. I'd been long overdue a new attempt, but also having ridden it before knew what to expect and what sort of form I needed to be in... I'd been close the last year or so fitness wise, but it being a bit of a stretch away distance wise not one I'd chosen to ride solo (usually involves a main road slog). So of course, skipping a weekend to do a bunch of DIY, then being ill last weekend (so skipping more riding), to still be fighting the tail end of the illness was never going to be ideal preparation. But that's just the way things go, isn't it! :cry: :rolleyes:

With over 25 riders out we had far more than planned. I'd gassed myself a little on the zoom down to meet up (after a last minute cooked breakfast), so I nominated to help co-lead the rear group. Good excuse for clearing snot from my nose without needing to check behind too often (lol). Good socialable ride out but obviously ended up with a slow rider. Local councillor who is 'towards the heavier side' but nice guy who just churns away so know what to expect with him. Dread to think what his average cadence is - probably below 60rpm (or how bad his knees are with the horrible pedalling style EDIT 57rpm, ouch)! Other rider in the group took a call (guy who snapped his forks a few weeks back) just before we hit the main road slog, so went back for him. Did a good long tow chasing him back to our merry group, my legs feel really good which was an amazing feeling! So I'd done 2 fairly long intense sessions that morning and recovered well from them which was good to know. Told myself then it was going to be worth putting a 100% effort into the climb but to otherwise take it easy...

Just before Abergavenny we turned off the main road and grouped everyone together (mad fast descent into town) so we didn't lose anyone - it's a steep downhill on rough roads into traffic with multiple turns/junctions to get across/through, crossing several A roads and roundabouts to get to the road/village The Tumble turns off from. We lost 2 riders somewhere and I knew slow guy from earlier was still off the back so eased for them. I kinda knew the way and where I was so was getting myself prepared for a couple of minutes. Happy to dangle and 'play it safe' through traffic for others to rejoin with at that point. It worked well and got everyone together before the turn.

Bottom of the road there's a bunch of houses, in trees and 2 switchbacks (called 'Fiddler Elbow'). There was lots of traffic and our group almost immediately split by it multiple times. Stuck behind a van used him as a bit of a leadout and got a nice tow as things then spread out and leaving most of the riders around me. Paced the bottom hard, but also knew the final switchback is utterly brutal (hits 20%) so although I'd reeled 3-4 riders in there had gone quite deep. Resolved to settle in and pace it - already in lowest gear (34x32). Going by cadence and how I was feeling, alternating between sat at 70 rpm, any time I dipped below I'd stand until my HR hit 180bpm then sit again, just surviving it until I was over the cattle grid (this is horrible at this point of the climb) but such a 'landmark' as soon after it you come over it the road starts to widen, the trees stop, gradient eases a bit and things open up in front of you. The worst is (mostly) over (looking at the data that middle section is a mile at just over 10%), but it helps to know it there is still a long way to the actual top... It's really a slog after that as although there's several corners, the 'top'/finish is hidden and the landscape all looks very similar.

At this point going past one of the pull in's I glanced down and saw my HR at 180bpm. I'd gone easier a couple of times without it really dropping much. I knew I was unlikely to sustain it, had a Wahoo 'segment' reminder soon afterwards telling me a countdown and how close I was to my PR counting down seconds & feet! Not what I needed as I was in a world of hurt and didn't think I'd be anywhere near it! So silenced it and eased to get my HR down a bit. I figured pace this section, get my HR down to 175 and then just at the final corner where it really eases to the summit put the power down to get the speed up. It worked well - having a carrot really helped but was very spent at the top, but I DARED not look at my segment time until around 3 hours afterwards... :eek: ;) :cool:

There was no ice cream van on top of the tumble! Every time I'd been up there - even once in almost-October there has been one there! Was pretty disappointed. We'd arranged a 'cafe stop' afterwards and I assumed it was going to be back down in Abergavenny... Not so! 2 club members who'd not ridden had baked a bunch of cakes and met us by 'Keepers Pond'. Good fun and we could all laze in the sun stuffing our faces and nattering! Lovely fast descent
It was a fairly long slog back, the group very sociable. Some hilarity when lead (Linda) got her directions wrong and most of us ended up doing a full circuits of a roundabout before heading the right way.


Serious, I didn't expect myself to be close on The Tumble. Was hoping to be 'better than my worst' (28 mins) and would've been happy anything below 26 mins...

Q1xcSRE.jpg


Missed my old goal by 1 second! :cry::rolleyes:

£5000 to spend on a bike... What would you do? I have a Di2 groupset I can put on it. I have good disc brake wheels I can put on it. I have a good 'day to day/everything else' bike. Aethos? TCR? SL7?


Fingers crossed the damage to the axle isn't an issue. Don't fancy spending £100+ on a new one of those.
Hmmm, I'd dug up an axle on the 'bay and was sure I linked it here friday but looks like my message didn't post...?

Basically, if you did come across the Zipp item number/code etc for it when you looked, then worth looking around using that. Once I spotted was labelled for the 177D hub, but I know Zipp tend to make their stuff cross models/series.

EDIT: here it is - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185824367341

The birthday boy (60 today) wanted to do 20mph for 20 miles. Goal achieved with a 21.6mph average. I did 21.0 for 31 miles to get there and back. Picked up a KOM, 5th and 7th as part of it.
Nicely done & congrats to your old man (assuming) knocking that out too! :cool:

I've come down to two bikes:



The Giant can be had for £1650 elsewhere and I think Tredz will price match.

Apart from the Giant having a Carbon frame, are there any reasons to choose one over the other? I'm wanting a more comfortable bike, rather than out and out racing snake pace on the road.
You'll get good prices on the Giant around with more deals, the Specialized will have less deals on it but will hold it's value. The E5 is a well know and very well respected, followed and specc'd bike for the money.

I'm riding a 2016 Diverge Comp Carbon. I love the carbon frame but for what I'm using it for (glorified comfortable 'do everything' road bike) I could be using the E5, or even the Roubaix for that matter as my Diverge came with road gears and I've (almost) never used it offroad.

I think both will be more than capable of what you want - comfortable and relaxed geometry, but verify an off-road gravel oriented type bike is what you need. They've both got pretty low gears/drivechains for the road (46/30 with 11-36t and 48/32 with 11-34t), but if you're not doing much over 14/15mph average rides then likely not a problem.

If you're looking to get faster on the road probably not the best. They are good bikes if you're after bikes capable off road, lots of trails and gravel/hardpack where you need tyre volumes over 32mm with low road use, then they're great options. If you're after a comfortable mostly road mile muncher with some less technical off road capability then you are looking at the wrong bikes. Giant Defy or Contend - something with the clearance for bigger tyres, but with road gearing will give you more of a 'do everything endurance road bike' with comfort and some off road/light trail capability (with a change in tyres) without compromising the road speed side of things.

Sunday with my 'club' we intentionally kept it a short one of 40 miles, setting out at 8am again, but were back shortly after 11am, so it hadn't heated up too bad. We are all off to Girona in two weeks though and it's worried us a little as it could be even hotter then :cry:
Will be a 'different' heat in Girona though won't it? Was so humid here on Sunday, Saturday the far better day. Had a couple of light showers here sunday afternoon which worked well for me trimming hedges, as without it I would've stopped as just so oppressive!
 
Last edited:
You'll get good prices on the Giant around with more deals, the Specialized will have less deals on it but will hold it's value. The E5 is a well know and very well respected, followed and specc'd bike for the money.

I'm riding a 2016 Diverge Comp Carbon. I love the carbon frame but for what I'm using it for (glorified comfortable 'do everything' road bike) I could be using the E5, or even the Roubaix for that matter as my Diverge came with road gears and I've (almost) never used it offroad.

I think both will be more than capable of what you want - comfortable and relaxed geometry, but verify an off-road gravel oriented type bike is what you need. They've both got pretty low gears/drivechains for the road (46/30 with 11-36t and 48/32 with 11-34t), but if you're not doing much over 14/15mph average rides then likely not a problem.

If you're looking to get faster on the road probably not the best. They are good bikes if you're after bikes capable off road, lots of trails and gravel/hardpack where you need tyre volumes over 32mm with low road use, then they're great options. If you're after a comfortable mostly road mile muncher with some less technical off road capability then you are looking at the wrong bikes. Giant Defy or something with the clearance for bigger tyres, but with road gearing will give you more.
Thanks, very informative. It'll be used on the road 90% of the time, with very occasional off road. But it's something I want to chuck in the car and use on holiday with the family, so there would be an element of canal paths, crossing fields, bridleways etc from time to time. But I already have a Whyte Suffolk that can do road stuff. Just looked through a few rides on Strava and average is 15 mph on the few I've checked, like I said I am not setting records. Just want a nice new bike for family duties, little bit of fitness and to get out the house for an hour now and then.
 
Chris messaged me directly so just to repeat here some of the advice I've given him (some of it ripped directly) - maybe some 'research' into what is making the Suffolk uncomfortable for you benefits you not making similar mistakes with a new bike. Is it saddle, is it frame being alloy, is it limited tyre options. Obviously some of them can be solved, if you where able to (new saddle, some comfy shorts, bigger & better tyres), then looking for a gravel bike is pretty pointless - the Suffolk is more than capable for 'light' gravel duties and the uses mentioned above. Even sticking some 650b £300-400 wheels on it and knobbly tyres (bought through c2w) would likely transform it into an off road weapon!

If you solve what's 'wrong' with the Suffolk enough for road duties and 'general miles', you could then be looking at a hard tail MTB on c2w, that would open up the more technical off road options. Especially if you have kids on MTB's which sounds like what some of your 'off road' use is - this may increase or get more technical as they improve/age/etc (I'm assuming!) and you need to keep up with them...! :D

But also getting that 'new bike' feeling, compared to likely how you've found the Suffolk to ride and your problems with it cannot be avoided/put down. Any of the above (and many others) will do it. A quality carbon frame opens up a bit more of that 'new & different' feeling too (you might find the E5 'good but more of the same' compared to the Suffolk) but also some minor upgrades on the Suffolk could benefit you keeping it and encouraging you to use it more. The fitness will come, even if you've got 2 bikes to do it! But 2 bikes 'exactly the same' doesn't achieve much. You'll have 2 bikes with the same problems. Hate to be the voice of reason! ;)
 
Last edited:
Well, I've entered my first ever Sportive. Only doing 67 miles (will be closer to 80 by the time i get there and home) but it does include the Cheddar Gorge climb. It's in 6 weeks and the truth is I've done barely any riding the last few months. Perfect excuse to get back on it :)
 
Well, I've entered my first ever Sportive. Only doing 67 miles (will be closer to 80 by the time i get there and home) but it does include the Cheddar Gorge climb. It's in 6 weeks and the truth is I've done barely any riding the last few months. Perfect excuse to get back on it :)

Haha, mad lad! I'm sure you will be fine. I have realised recently that you can get to the end of pretty much any ride and be ball-bagged or you can take it easy and its absolutely fine. 6 weeks is quite a long time to get your fitness up as long as you can dedicate a fair bit of time each week to the bike. You should be able to join a group and get all those benefits as well.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!
 
Chris messaged me directly so just to repeat here some of the advice I've given him (some of it ripped directly) - maybe some 'research' into what is making the Suffolk uncomfortable for you benefits you not making similar mistakes with a new bike. Is it saddle, is it frame being alloy, is it limited tyre options. Obviously some of them can be solved, if you where able to (new saddle, some comfy shorts, bigger & better tyres), then looking for a gravel bike is pretty pointless - the Suffolk is more than capable for 'light' gravel duties and the uses mentioned above. Even sticking some 650b £300-400 wheels on it and knobbly tyres (bought through c2w) would likely transform it into an off road weapon!

If you solve what's 'wrong' with the Suffolk enough for road duties and 'general miles', you could then be looking at a hard tail MTB on c2w, that would open up the more technical off road options. Especially if you have kids on MTB's which sounds like what some of your 'off road' use is - this may increase or get more technical as they improve/age/etc (I'm assuming!) and you need to keep up with them...! :D

But also getting that 'new bike' feeling, compared to likely how you've found the Suffolk to ride and your problems with it cannot be avoided/put down. Any of the above (and many others) will do it. A quality carbon frame opens up a bit more of that 'new & different' feeling too (you might find the E5 'good but more of the same' compared to the Suffolk) but also some minor upgrades on the Suffolk could benefit you keeping it and encouraging you to use it more. The fitness will come, even if you've got 2 bikes to do it! But 2 bikes 'exactly the same' doesn't achieve much. You'll have 2 bikes with the same problems. Hate to be the voice of reason! ;)
I guess I could get a hardtail and spend the rest on accessories for the current bike. Hmm.
 
Posted my cervelo fork off to get repaired. Be silly not to.

Rocking the winter bike - Kinesis T3 with Rival 22. Took the mudguards off and fitted carbon wheels so it looks cool AF, like an alloy crit bike. Need a negative 17 degree stem as the head tube is massive!

I was going to fit the dura ace brakes off my Cervelo but got to it and they don’t have enough drop. The TRP brakes are actually quite good, they must just have crap pads included as standard for the alloy rims as they felt fine this morning.

It’s a great bike I love riding it.

Anywhere cheap for GP5000 tyres? I don’t need tubeless, but everywhere seems to be £45.
 
Last edited:
Rocking the winter bike - Kinesis T3 with Rival 22. Took the mudguards off and fitted carbon wheels so it looks cool AF, like an alloy crit bike. Need a negative 17 degree stem as the head tube is massive!

Anywhere cheap for GP5000 tyres? I don’t need tubeless, but everywhere seems to be £45.
My 58cm Cube Attain GTC Disc says hi, 610mm stack and a 210mm headtube iirc, for the last year I've often run a Deda adjustable stem at -30 degree and under all spacers! :cry:

Can't see any in stock GP5000 bargains, my usual places to look (Sigma, Merlin, Chain Reaction) are all the same sort of price, albeit you can use a £5 discount voucher on a £75+ basket at Merlin (better use of reward points for £150+ spend).
 
Yesterday, I successfully completed my longest cycling route yet, covering a total distance of 17.5 miles! As a beginner cyclist who only started training for a triathlon (13 miles) this summer, it was quite a challenging experience that truly tested my confidence. I'm hoping to get some advice from fellow cyclists on how to relax my grip on the hoods, as towards the end of the ride I started feeling pins and needles. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
 
Yesterday, I successfully completed my longest cycling route yet, covering a total distance of 17.5 miles! As a beginner cyclist who only started training for a triathlon (13 miles) this summer, it was quite a challenging experience that truly tested my confidence. I'm hoping to get some advice from fellow cyclists on how to relax my grip on the hoods, as towards the end of the ride I started feeling pins and needles. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

It probably isn't a grip issue. Its probably a bike sizing issue. If you put a lot of weight through your hands they eventually go numb.
 
It probably isn't a grip issue. Its probably a bike sizing issue. If you put a lot of weight through your hands they eventually go numb.
I had assumed that my grip was too tight due to nervousness since it was only my eighth time cycling and my first time in traffic. Should I consider taking my bike for a fitting to address this issue?
 
Yesterday, I successfully completed my longest cycling route yet, covering a total distance of 17.5 miles! As a beginner cyclist who only started training for a triathlon (13 miles) this summer, it was quite a challenging experience that truly tested my confidence. I'm hoping to get some advice from fellow cyclists on how to relax my grip on the hoods, as towards the end of the ride I started feeling pins and needles. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Get sized to the bike at a local bike shop if you haven't done so already.
 
Yesterday, I successfully completed my longest cycling route yet, covering a total distance of 17.5 miles! As a beginner cyclist who only started training for a triathlon (13 miles) this summer, it was quite a challenging experience that truly tested my confidence. I'm hoping to get some advice from fellow cyclists on how to relax my grip on the hoods, as towards the end of the ride I started feeling pins and needles. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Try and relax your shoulders arms and hands, bend your elbows a bit. Padded mits might help a bit. Holding the hoods in a "vice grip" isn't going to make you able to steer quicker. It's harder for me to stay relaxed if I'm riding in motor traffic, compared to the rural lanes around Old Winchester Hill.

You might have your saddle a bit too forward, putting more weight on your hands. If you move the saddle back, you will need to lower the post a bit to get the same pedal-saddle measurement as before.
 
Well, I've entered my first ever Sportive. Only doing 67 miles (will be closer to 80 by the time i get there and home) but it does include the Cheddar Gorge climb. It's in 6 weeks and the truth is I've done barely any riding the last few months. Perfect excuse to get back on it :)
Nice! Goodluck! What's the Sportive?

I guess I could get a hardtail and spend the rest on accessories for the current bike. Hmm.
Kinda my thinking... Especially as you have an 'ok' road bike and could be considered to keep it, then get something more specific to what you don't have and feel you need...

Anywhere cheap for GP5000 tyres? I don’t need tubeless, but everywhere seems to be £45.
£45 is a good price for them these days. Premium tyre, premium price. Tyres do seem silly money, I thought I was stupid paying £65 last year on my Pirelli P-zero but that's become the norm for most current tubeless! Maybe all the surplus bikes and inventory they're talking about lead to a bit of a spiral in the stuff we do need! ;)

Can't see any in stock GP5000 bargains, my usual places to look (Sigma, Merlin, Chain Reaction) are all the same sort of price, albeit you can use a £5 discount voucher on a £75+ basket at Merlin (better use of reward points for £150+ spend).
Merlin had a deal over the weekend on Topcashback for 7 or 8% but my account handily wouldn't login to take advantage of it...

Mantel have the GP5000 for about £38 but you end up paying £10 on shipping so I'm not sure it's all that great
Mantel have a big Continental tyre delivery coming in next week (19th). Lots of their tyre lines have dates on them and the GP5000 S TR I've been chasing them about I've been told should be in, as they're one of the cheapest around. Nearly £20 less, I'm happy to pay some postage for that! But I'm also not going to be surprised if they go up in price when they have stock... :rolleyes:

https://www.mantel.com/uk/continental-grand-prix-5000-s-tr-road-bike-tyre 28mm S TR for £49-54 is 15-20 less than other places.

Yesterday, I successfully completed my longest cycling route yet, covering a total distance of 17.5 miles! As a beginner cyclist who only started training for a triathlon (13 miles) this summer, it was quite a challenging experience that truly tested my confidence. I'm hoping to get some advice from fellow cyclists on how to relax my grip on the hoods, as towards the end of the ride I started feeling pins and needles. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Well done & welcome! As you're that new much of it will be confidence - you're holding onto the bars too tightly. There's not many things to do at this point except to keep riding, build that confidence and also subconsciously try and just 'grip' the bars and not 'grab hold of them' like a door handle. Much of cornering is leaning, momentum, positioning and speed, not the bars themselves (turning like a car - although much could be said of that momentum feeling when travelling at speed in a 'fast' car being more similar). :cool:

It probably isn't a grip issue. Its probably a bike sizing issue. If you put a lot of weight through your hands they eventually go numb.
This. But also above...

A fit could be a good thing, but also at this point a little bit too early in your cycling career. Some of it can be done yourself with KOPS etc (but bear in mind this is just an 'easy' starting point, nothing more). Play around a bit with the position you have - if you've not had the bike fitted to you at purchase. But bear in mind, you're new. You'll need to toughen up your 'contact points' which takes time. You'll be strengthening various muscles which will aid your core strength as you go, that itself will support more of your weight so less is going through your hands, regardless if you lose weight or not (you will). Padded gloves with gel inserts is a good cheap starting point if you want some 'assistance', but the goal should be to fit and size your bike and body geometry to be the most efficient. A big part of that is being comfortable.
 
Last edited:
Get sized to the bike at a local bike shop if you haven't done so already.

Try and relax your shoulders arms and hands, bend your elbows a bit. Padded mits might help a bit. Holding the hoods in a "vice grip" isn't going to make you able to steer quicker. It's harder for me to stay relaxed if I'm riding in motor traffic, compared to the rural lanes around Old Winchester Hill.

You might have your saddle a bit too forward, putting more weight on your hands. If you move the saddle back, you will need to lower the post a bit to get the same pedal-saddle measurement as before.

Well done & welcome! As you're that new much of it will be confidence - you're holding onto the bars too tightly. There's not many things to do at this point except to keep riding, build that confidence and also subconsciously try and just 'grip' the bars and not 'grab hold of them' like a door handle. Much of cornering is leaning, momentum, positioning and speed, not the bars themselves (turning like a car - although much could be said of that momentum feeling when travelling at speed in a 'fast' car being more similar). :cool:


This. But also above...

A fit could be a good thing, but also at this point a little bit too early in your cycling career. Some of it can be done yourself with KOPS etc (but bear in mind this is just an 'easy' starting point, nothing more). Play around a bit with the position you have - if you've not had the bike fitted to you at purchase. But bear in mind, you're new. You'll need to toughen up your 'contact points' which takes time. You'll be strengthening various muscles which will aid your core strength as you go, that itself will support more of your weight so less is going through your hands, regardless if you lose weight or not (you will). Padded gloves with gel inserts is a good cheap starting point if you want some 'assistance', but the goal should be to fit and size your bike and body geometry to be the most efficient. A big part of that is being comfortable.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement guys.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fez
Unless you want it to be easier, in which case, go slower. I only realised the other day you can just pootle.
 
Will be a 'different' heat in Girona though won't it? Was so humid here on Sunday, Saturday the far better day. Had a couple of light showers here sunday afternoon which worked well for me trimming hedges, as without it I would've stopped as just so oppressive!

Can confirm. 32C when i was in Spain was very much manageable, even for running. Whereas 25C here feels like i'm in a swamp!
 
Back
Top Bottom