Road Cycling

Amazing achievement! I am scared about doing metric and imperial centuries, to cover that distance is absolutely epic! Well done!


I have tried to put a link for others, but I do find it sometimes doesn’t work for me.

Thats an epic ride and a good speed throughout as well.

Sometimes I wish I lived somewhere that flat but I am actually learning to love hills slowly but surely. If I did 400km around here I would be looking at about 6-7000m of climbing. I...could not do that in a day. I couldn't do it on a far flatter course to be fair.
 
Sometimes I wish I lived somewhere that flat but I am actually learning to love hills slowly but surely.
Same when I look at most people in my Strava stream. There are not many that do more feet per mile than me. Who knew Herts was so lumpy!? (Don't get me wrong, there are no mountains, but lots of little 2-4 min climbs all over the place) The way I look at it, it's a little like HIIT or interval training and makes you a stronger cyclist.

Even so, huge effort on the all dayer. Twice as long as my longest even ride...
 
Same when I look at most people in my Strava stream. There are not many that do more feet per mile than me. Who knew Herts was so lumpy!? (Don't get me wrong, there are no mountains, but lots of little 2-4 min climbs all over the place) The way I look at it, it's a little like HIIT or interval training and makes you a stronger cyclist.

Even so, huge effort on the all dayer. Twice as long as my longest even ride...
My flat ride would still be 1000ft over 30 miles from my house!
 
Bit the bullet and got ultegra di2 12 speed. 52/36 and 11-34. Total was £1424. Was £1374 yesterday but I dithered.

Was spending far too much time umming and ahhhing about it and I am sick of messing with gears. Will probably have in all installed in a few weeks as I don't think I have a few things I need to replace/re-install my bb and I might need an adaptor for the battery in the seatpost. Outside of that it should be quite an easy install.
You'll still be messing with gears on di2 if building yourself, it's not magic and does it for you (maybe we'll get AI that does soon!) - worth noting it is a different way of indexing & setting limits. The fact you can get your mechanical working well you'll be fine with it.

On mechanical you set the limits first then the indexing, it's the reverse on di2 - put it into the 5th (from bottom) of the cassette and adjust on that gear, then move to extremities and move limits to stop it shifting too far - needs to be slacker than mechanical as di2 'over-shifts' then trims back. This can be awkward to do as the newer groupsets will stop you cross chaining from the big ring. Any problems following the Shimano guides (I found it hard to get my head around) then Bettershifting and even the Park Tools website (although it's old) have good guides, along with videos which really help. I found them better than the GCN one (maybe it was just Dan's hair which distracted me), but the newer GCN for 12 speed is a far better guide so would say start there.



In fact, does the training gains curve start coming down as you start wearing your body out? I know a 62 year old guy that's crazy fast. He's only been cycling for about 7 years. Is he benefitting having not been training hard for 40 years? What will happen to the likes of Evenapol, Van Art, Pogacer as they get into their mid 30's? By all accounts they train very differently to even Geraint T used to... Is it sustainable?
Yes, I always thought it was the fast twitch muscles which as you got older got more 'sluggish' and less fast along with the body needing longer to recover from deep efforts, also the lowering of max HR just means less 'fast' blood into the muscles when you're towards peak meaning they have slightly less energy. Always generally thought that's why many riders transition from less explosive power and more towards the long 'diesel engine' type efforts. Their muscles being efficient from all of the history of riding, but not able to go as deep to sprint or to peak as high at max effort. But I could be wrong ;)

G has always been fairly traditional in the way he trains. He came right through the BC development programs from a young age and all that structure around development for track riding is ingrained in him. So his training is all volume based. Really not the periodised many of the newer and younger riders tend to use - as they're more science and data driven.

Yes - Shimano have changed their packaging to pure cardboard and generally more beige. Doesn't sound quite like what you got. Mine was in a plastic bag with a cable tie through the middle of the cassette... it did still have the plastic retainer that all the sprockets sit on too. Perhaps Shimano are supplying them OEM like this? Still, I wish websites would make it clear that's what I'm ordering.
Yeah I half think as mine was 'non-series' HG700 it might have been different anyway. But was happy with the price I got it for (£57) than what I could see the R7000 for. Guess that's what I 'pay' for wanting a non-normal 34t cassette! Keep telling myself it'll be all worth while... Just now no excuse for not getting up anything! :rolleyes:

Yes... and my point was 'what if you're already taking it as seriously as you can'. As I said, if things remain the same, currently it's still gains, when does age take over and overall performance begins to degrade.
If I recall correctly you're a bit older than me (I'm 43 in 9 days time!). Although you've not been riding as long as me you're highly likely at the same point where you've noticed peaks and troughs in your form/performance/power/fitness alongside the seasons and usually illness/other commitments also impacting. Those could even be considered a separate 'thing' to the fairly pure and easily measured 'current FTP'. I highly expect my riding/performance to diminish more the closer I get to 50, but at this point I'm putting out (slightly) better numbers than my peaks in 2016/2017, but I'm also being so much more consistent with things (even with my fairly unorganised and non scientific or structured way of riding).

More than likely, they'll probably have a similar length career at the top but as they started earlier at that level they'll finish earlier, but part of that will be desire as they'll have achieved much more much sooner.
Good point, many of them so young now achieving so much. We'll see who still has the drive to win and still compete 10 years on. Riders like Froome coming quite late into riding, still feel like he has some of that drive left which gives him an edge. Even a rider like Sagan has that edge still - Cavendish being an absolute prime example. A character who feels almost like they have a chip on their shoulder, so defeats just drive and focus them harder to achieve. Roglic could be another prime example of that. Not sure many of the young guys quite have or show that - but equally isn't it an 'old' guy thing anyway! :D

ffs too tired to figure out how to link it but my strava is martin riggs, picture involves a madone having a pint in a pub garden :cry:
Incredible ride mate, well done! Found it for you - hope you've had a good sleep and the recovery is well underway! :D

(ooops meant to post this reply yesterday and ran out of time!)
 
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You'll still be messing with gears on di2 if building yourself, it's not magic and does it for you (maybe we'll get AI that does soon!) - worth noting it is a different way of indexing & setting limits. The fact you can get your mechanical working well you'll be fine with it.

On mechanical you set the limits first then the indexing, it's the reverse on di2 - put it into the 5th (from bottom) of the cassette and adjust on that gear, then move to extremities and move limits to stop it shifting too far - needs to be slacker than mechanical as di2 'over-shifts' then trims back. This can be awkward to do as the newer groupsets will stop you cross chaining from the big ring. Any problems following the Shimano guides (I found it hard to get my head around) then Bettershifting and even the Park Tools website (although it's old) have good guides, along with videos which really help. I found them better than the GCN one (maybe it was just Dan's hair which distracted me), but the newer GCN for 12 speed is a far better guide so would say start there.



Cheers buddy, much appreciated. Honestly I love wrenching on bikes, I just hate the fact that I can get my gears shifting perfectly on this bike and a ride or two later its having issues again. I am 99% sure its the internal cable routing causing problems. Replacing that would be far cheaper than going di2 but i've fancied di2 for a while and it should eliminate that problem. Once its indexed its indexed.

It should be easy to adjust for the trainer as well. The other half of the problem at the moment is that both the trainer and the bike can throw out the indexing and there isn't a repeatable "2 turns on the barrel adjuster to go from bike to trainer. Hopefully on di2 it will be "5 clicks to set for trainer".

I have watched a few videos of the install and it seems pretty damn easy. I have ordered the tools I am missing like a proper hydraulic cable chopper/barb fitter along with a BB extraction tool. Only thing that is going to hold this all up is the parts from giant like the grommets for cables and the battery holder. Annoyingly its suggesting 2-3 weeks on those.
 
Same when I look at most people in my Strava stream. There are not many that do more feet per mile than me. Who knew Herts was so lumpy!? (Don't get me wrong, there are no mountains, but lots of little 2-4 min climbs all over the place) The way I look at it, it's a little like HIIT or interval training and makes you a stronger cyclist.

Its the same here. We have some longer hills but much of it is rolling hills and they are great. One of my favourite things is coming down a decent and hitting a small hill at the bottom and putting down the power to maintain speed and crest that one. Feels amazing.
 
Cheers buddy, much appreciated. Honestly I love wrenching on bikes, I just hate the fact that I can get my gears shifting perfectly on this bike and a ride or two later its having issues again. I am 99% sure its the internal cable routing causing problems. Replacing that would be far cheaper than going di2 but i've fancied di2 for a while and it should eliminate that problem. Once its indexed its indexed.

It should be easy to adjust for the trainer as well. The other half of the problem at the moment is that both the trainer and the bike can throw out the indexing and there isn't a repeatable "2 turns on the barrel adjuster to go from bike to trainer. Hopefully on di2 it will be "5 clicks to set for trainer".

I have watched a few videos of the install and it seems pretty damn easy. I have ordered the tools I am missing like a proper hydraulic cable chopper/barb fitter along with a BB extraction tool. Only thing that is going to hold this all up is the parts from giant like the grommets for cables and the battery holder. Annoyingly its suggesting 2-3 weeks on those.
Yeah certainly with internal routing if you've got in your mind 'it's causing problems' there is really no way to prove - nor disprove that! You can't just 'look inside' to see where things are snagged up or wrapped around each other causing your issues. Not without a way of x-raying your frame - good luck getting an NHS appointment for that(!) ;)

If you are replacing hydraulic hoses at the same time, maybe have them cut to lengths and you could feed through the Di2 wire(s) pre-taped to the hoses. It could be a great way to get them nice and straight and not all wrapped around each other inside. You would just have the 'slack' at the ends of the connections where you need it while also eliminating some movement and making noises while you ride (haven't noticed much of that myself and was only able to get some of those little black gripper things in my downtube). At the end of the day a Di2 wire SHOULD be 'fit and forget' and certainly the hydraulic hoses are similar to that. Who cares if to change a hose in 5 years time you also have to remove a di2 wire. When it's cable outers and you're replacing them every year or 2 it would be more of a hassle.

The '5 clicks' to move one way or the other could be easy to replicate. But as each 'click' on di2 is 0.2mm of sideways movement of the derailleur - so you could even 'measure'/calculate the distance by the number of clicks, then buy/find/fashion a spacer of that width to go on your trainer (or wheel) freehub to correct it. You then wouldn't need to! ;)

My HG700 (11s) cassette actually came with a spacer. I discarded it figuring I wouldn't need it, then when indexing found it wasn't that happy about going in the biggest cog. It was at the absolute max of the adjustment - while still rubbing a bit in other gears meaning it needed to go further inboard. So reinstated the spacer on my freehub and indexed it. Perfect! Probably the only time I've used a spacer with an 11s cassette. I've used them before fitting a 10s and 8s cassettes onto an 11s hub. I do recall some of the bigger 'dinnerplate' MTB cassettes cantilever the big inner cog towards the spokes for chain retention so you have to spacer them, wouldn't expect a 34t to be big enough for that (nor my eyesight being good enough to notice!) but entirely possible...

Anyway, digression aside. You'll need the BB extraction and fitting tools. It is possible to do it without, but life is so much easier - especially with your expected/known problem internal cable routing. As you're the new di2 you won't have the big long downtube cable, but you'll still need to route probable seattube battery wires around the BB to each of your derailleurs. Hint: put them 'above' so they're not pulling around the BB. They'll have more slack and less chance of unplugging things by mistake pulling around it. I didn't worry about grommets for cables, I will get some, for now just wrapped some electrical tape around my wires at those points to 'thicken' them up and block the holes. Had left them open as water just goes through frames anyway, but figured stop some of the 'mud' also collecting inside the frame (the one around my FD cable is massive as had a cable guide through it I removed).

Seat tube/post mounts are awkward. I got a non-name branded one but couldn't get it to fit, just too tight. Proper bodged/MayGuyver'd mine - had heard of people wrapping them in bubble wrap, so did that, also taped a long thick cable tie to the battery so I have something firm to pull it back out if I need to. Was slightly paranoid about it sliding down so put more bubblewrap as a 'plug' below. Didn't fit that well, so wrapped some tape inside the seattube, then doubled it and continued to wrap it (didn't have any double sided tape) to gave am internal seattube sticky surface then found a bit of plastic to stick in there. I will check it's still there after I've ridden in some more wet weather (it's just electrical tape). Going to save a cork from a bottle of vino when I next find one for the job, figured that is good to cut a channel with a knife for the cable and also trim to size. An even better bodge! Or maybe I just size up the seattube and find a di2 mount with sizes on it. Maybe some Di2 experts can advise us! @SoliD any advice? Or who else here has fiddled with lots of Di2? ;)
 
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I just use bubble wrap on most of mine, needs replacement in my CX bikes once a year but does the job and weighs nigh on nothing.
 
@Roady All the extra di2 parts are coming direct from giant and cost a total of about £20 for everything I could possibly need. Think that is the seatpost battery adaptor and plugs for all of the various fittings related to running gear cables through the bike. I'll probably just end up waiting for them before I install. I cannot be trusted though so who knows!

Some good general advice there though and I will look at shimming the cassette on the trainer if there are issues which I assume there will be.
 
How risky is it to cycle with one missing spoke? I use my bike to commute, and it snapped on my way home last night. I've got it booked in for a service next week anyway, as it's come round to that time of the year and they can sort the spoke at the same time, but is there much risk in putting it through maybe another 25k of riding before then (all reasonably flat roads)?
 
I just use bubble wrap on most of mine, needs replacement in my CX bikes once a year but does the job and weighs nigh on nothing.
Thanks! Good reminder to check it if it ends up being medium-term rather than short! ;)

@Roady All the extra di2 parts are coming direct from giant and cost a total of about £20 for everything I could possibly need. Think that is the seatpost battery adaptor and plugs for all of the various fittings related to running gear cables through the bike. I'll probably just end up waiting for them before I install. I cannot be trusted though so who knows!

Some good general advice there though and I will look at shimming the cassette on the trainer if there are issues which I assume there will be.
Good call waiting, especially with lots of the 'bits' all coming together. I believe the gromets are standard Shimano, but entirely possible Giant do their own ones. The Shimano ones have a split on the 'inside' so you can put them over the wires rather than feeding the ends through - allows for a tighter fit but should also mean you can fit them afterwards without needing to unplug or disassemble things. Obviously can't do that with the Seatpost holder! I put a 700mm wire on mine so I can remove the post and still have around 200mm wire 'loose' above the frame. Probably means lots of slack in my seattube but made it easy to work on it and fish it through the frame (then poke it back up from the BB area!).

How risky is it to cycle with one missing spoke? I use my bike to commute, and it snapped on my way home last night. I've got it booked in for a service next week anyway, as it's come round to that time of the year and they can sort the spoke at the same time, but is there much risk in putting it through maybe another 25k of riding before then (all reasonably flat roads)?
The wheel will be weaker without it - depending on the wheel, number of spokes and how it's built will determine what happens. Probably 'safe enough' to ride cautiously, but be careful. Ride it gently! Whatever broke the spoke (pot hole/debris) may have weakened other spokes next to the victim, then you're putting extra strain on them by riding with it broken. The wheel as it flexes while being ridde may also loosen other spokes making things even worse. Check how much the wheel is buckled - esspeially if you're rim brake, the wheel will continue to go out of shape, buckling more and will rub (and then start to jam) against the brake blocks and/or frame. Obviously a Disc wheel won't rub on the calipers, but the rim may rub your frame before it jams.

Any chance to swap a wheel with another bike for a few days? Defo recommend doing that if any chance, got any local friends/neighbours who'd lend you a wheel?
 
I find adjusting indexing simpler on mechanical than di2.
Bit of a faf having to use the app to set limits but I guess it's considered more intuitive since it guides you through it. I just prefer the feel of adjusting till it changes gear and then backing off.

The bettershifting guides are great!

Had to refit my front derailleur and the guides really helped me understand all the adjustments I can make with height, twist and then limits.
 
How risky is it to cycle with one missing spoke? I use my bike to commute, and it snapped on my way home last night. I've got it booked in for a service next week anyway, as it's come round to that time of the year and they can sort the spoke at the same time, but is there much risk in putting it through maybe another 25k of riding before then (all reasonably flat roads)?

depends a lot on how many spokes the wheel has (the more the better), and a bit on where the spoke is (non-drive side rears are under very low tension in rim brake road wheels)

a 36 hole wheel with a broken spoke on the non-drive side rear (or non-disk brake side front) you might not even notice

a 12 spoke wheel, you're probably walking home.
 
Turns out Giant give you all the parts you need to install DI2 for free when you buy a bike so I have all the bits I ordered. Bike is basically ready for the new groupset. Just need to disconnect the old hydraulic cables and use them to pull the new ones through and I can get going on the install. Shouldn't take too long. Can't wait!
 
Turns out Giant give you all the parts you need to install DI2 for free when you buy a bike so I have all the bits I ordered. Bike is basically ready for the new groupset. Just need to disconnect the old hydraulic cables and use them to pull the new ones through and I can get going on the install. Shouldn't take too long. Can't wait!
Just leave the hoses in there and plug the new shifters in one end and the caliper the other, much easier!
 
Can someone tell me why Canyon are fitting 175mm cranks to their revised aeroad in a large with single sided power meter that's none removable and they don't allow you to change it? - it has to be other than to get rid of cranks nobody wants.

You'd think buying a high end road bike in 2023 would be enjoyable with thousands to spend. Nope - lots of none availability (Scott), terrible colourways without choice (cannondale abominations, giant a close second with the propel, don't forget bmc), stupid gearing to shift stock (ribble), crank sizing (above, canyon) bar and stem combos that can't be changed (why aren't more offering 40 in 110 and 120... Latest rose xlite at 100 42 in their 57 which is more like a 56.5 max - really?), daft pricing (trek, cervelo, specialized - sl7 looking like an aero tcr at this point with larger sizing passing for a roubaix, and to a lesser extent factor), headtube sizing or style you can't live with (3t strada), graphics that are just no (reacto stem, bar), wheel choices from 2018 at 18-19mm inner and 25-26mm outer all for 25s (too many to even list).

All I'm after is 56.5-57.5, around 395-400 reach, 560-580 stack, a headtube under 165mm (more is better), latest ultegra in 52/36 172.5, subtle colours unless it's oil slick like glitter, no crap graphics, modern 50-60mm wheelset, weight around 7.5-8.2kg aero focused and in stock... Don't think it's possible.
 
We used to use headtube length as a passable analog for how low you could get back in the day before they measure stack, but given that stack is a directly-comparable method of comparing how low you can get between manufacturers (which headtube length never was), why the fixation on headtube length?
 
All I'm after is...
Tbf, I honestly don't think I've ever seen or heard so many provisos :cry:

I don't know enough about all you said, but I was looking at Ribble a few months back and they would let me have whatever gearing I wanted? I think the same for the crank... also choose your own wheels etc? It seemed a great option for customisation.

It strikes me if you want something super specific, is it not better to find the frame, then get your LBS to build the bike around that?
 
Is the power meter the SRAM one? Is the issue that it isn’t good? I’m not up on power meters to know.

How do you work out your idea crank length? I think my hybrid bike is 175 and the smart bike is 172.5 (thought wife would use it more). I honestly don’t notice a different between the two.
 
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