Temporarily powering house from EV, but no power to the heating system.

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We had storm Eorwyn and our electric was off for about a day and a half. It's amazing how slow time seems to go when you have nothing to distract you and are in pitch darkness !

My EV can do vehicle to load, basically has a standard 3-pin mains socket that can supply around 3KW, more than enough to get the central heating, lights, internet and TV going, and then turn off most of that to boil a kettle.

We made up what is lovingly called a suicide cable, turned off the incoming mains, and plugged one side into the car and the other into a wall outlet, the thinking being that would basically provide 240v to everywhere, and we'd just need to ensure that combined it didn't exceed the 3KW.

It mostly worked as above, but for some reason the central heating (oil), it's controller, and the various actuators got no power. Our house is old enough to have older style plug in fuses. The only difference I could see is that the heating circuit was going thru an RCD on the mains board. I don't know enough about the mains board so unclear as to whether it was being supplied via a separate tail after the meter compared to the reset of the electrics. I did note that my EV charging port was also not getting any power (i.e I could not access its control panel via the network). That circuit was newly added a couple of years ago, and also has an RCD.

So is it possible that the RCDs prevent the electric flow in the way I assumed it should, or is it more likely the reason is that the Heating (and EV port) are on separate tails and therefore independent of the fuseboard ? If so that would imply turning off the mains at the fuseboard would not isolate power to the heating and EV power, which would seem "strange".
 
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I’m no expert, but as far as I know your property should be completely isolated from the grid in order to do what you’re trying to achieve. If not, you run the risk of seriously injuring, or worse, anyone undertaking work on the grid.

Throwing a breaker to prevent any power coming in doesn’t isolate the property.

That’s maybe why no one has answered your question.

You could always run several devices using the V2L function as it’s designed to work of course, and perhaps even your heating if it could be operated from a 3 pin plug.
 
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Have an electrician install a generator plug on a manual switchover at your main supply head. Plug your car into the generator plug.

When the grid is switched in, your generator plug is physically disconnected and vice versa.

They’ll also need to install an earth rod if you don’t already have one to cover the installation when the grid is disconnected if the grid is supplying your earth.

This is the way this should be done, please don’t do what you did, you could kill yourself or someone working on the lines downstream.
 
I’m no expert, but as far as I know your property should be completely isolated from the grid in order to do what you’re trying to achieve. If not, you run the risk of seriously injuring, or worse, anyone undertaking work on the grid.

Throwing a breaker to prevent any power coming in doesn’t isolate the property.

That’s maybe why no one has answered your question.

You could always run several devices using the V2L function as it’s designed to work of course, and perhaps even your heating if it could be operated from a 3 pin plug.
I had assumed (apparently wrongly) that throwing the master on/off switch to off separated the house from the mains input, i.e. that electric from the car could not leave the property. When our power came back on, the only way we knew was the neighbours outside lighting came on. We then disconnected the car and switched on the master switch.

I thought the whole point of the master switch was to isolate the house from the mains input (and vice versa) i.e. if working on something in the house, hitting the master switch meant you were safe ?

I'll definitely need to look into this more.
 
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Not necessarily, you could be back feeding to the grid via your Earth conductor.

The reason why what you are doing is very dangerous is because there is a huge risk that you mess it up and end up killing someone down the lines (or yourself). The reason it’s called a ‘suicide cable’ is literal.

The breakers and switches themselves are not fool proof, they do fail closed and they are certainly not rated for what you are doing with them.

The regs exist for a reason at the end of the day. People who are working on the lines need to be confident that they can do so safely. What you are doing undermines their safety.

Doing it properly isn’t even that expensive, so get it done properly.
 
you'd get voltage drop too, injecting power on an arbitrary loop and taking it out elsewhere,
the ev charger itself with pen protection is probably very discriminating on the potential, so if it's interface wasn't powered up, probably indicative of something wrong.
 
We'll just run extension leads from the car should a future event happen. This was a spur of the moment, no power in the house after a major storm, wow, I can power the house from the car, decision. Not worried about ourselves, just 2 adults in the house that knew very well the issue with the plug-2-plug cable, and the fuse was taken out of both sides afterwards with the cable put away.

However I had naively thought that switching the master switch at the fusebox totally isolated the property from the mains and vice versa, meaning there was no scenario that could result in the power from the car going out of the house, but lesson learned.

Came here to find out one thing, and learned something much more important.
 
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